2008-2009 LC Navigation Delete

[alta]

Thank you for checking my work guys! I am keeping fingers crossed that the clock will fix the SRS and somehow help the other errors too.

The printout that the shop handed me has a columns labeled: "Curr Conf", "Hist" and "FFD". There were a number of codes in the "Hist" column, but those I listed above were all "Curr Conf" (making an assumption they are "current confirmed" or hard codes). The only "Yes" in the FFD column was ABS/VSC/TRAC.

I was pretty careful to get the pins set correctly (and used all new ones repair wires after my first failed attempt). But I agree with @TXSunDevil's suggestion that if the clock doesn't fix it, it sure does seem like it could be a terminal somewhere.

 

[TonyP]

If those codes are showing as FFD (freeze frame data) there's a good chance they may clear and not return. But you're right on the "Curr Conf", those are solid and current codes.

 

[TXSunDevil]

Did you look at the CANL and CANH wiring. The CAN wires operate like a daisy chain where all components are on the network and can be read. When you disconnected the system you removed the navigation system from the CAN system and went with the LIN one wire communication. Any chance you removed one of the CAN wires that daisy chain over to the Yaw, and 4wd ECU? Check the EWD for the Multi Mode 4wd and the Pre-Collision system. It appears they are all separate on the CAN system but my EWD is from a 2009. It looks like FE4 is where many of those CAN connections are made

 

[alta]

Did you look at the CANL and CANH wiring. The CAN wires operate like a daisy chain where all components are on the network and can be read. When you disconnected the system you removed the navigation system from the CAN system and went with the LIN one wire communication. Any chance you removed one of the CAN wires that daisy chain over to the Yaw, and 4wd ECU? Check the EWD for the Multi Mode 4wd and the Pre-Collision system. It appears they are all separate on the CAN system but my EWD is from a 2009. It looks like FE4 is where many of those CAN connections are made

This has made me think about the problem differently, so thank you. I believe I am okay tapping into E2 and it was a good thing I didn't terminate the existing connection. As you stated, the Comm appears to be daisy chained, so the communication must be two way across the entire network. That means it shouldn't matter where in the chain the connection is, as long as it exists. I doubt the Nav unit was providing a critical link, but rather just displaying or responding to a specific input. Therefore, it is starting to feel more like a short or lack of connection (perhaps at a pin). I am going to wait until I get the new clock and then see where I am.

 

[alta]

Well I have partial success. After installing the new clock assembly, the airbag and traction codes went away. The solar sensor errors are still there, which is odd because my auto headlights work as intended. I hooked up a Maestro RR for the steering wheel controls, a Toyota adapter for the USB and an Alpine ILX-F309 Halo9. I wanted to prove that basic functions worked like the reverse camera and the USB before worrying about the amp or speakers. The Maestro worked flawlessly. I was able to see the engine info, rpm and the steering wheel controls worked. The factory USB on the console did not work; no power to phone and no connectivity to unit. I was not able to test the reverse camera, because the unit would not exit the parking brake protection mode. I grounded the brake wire, but apparently Alpine has added something to thwart this work around.

At this point I am very underwhelmed. The Halo9 is almost the perfect size for the LC, with a pretty screen and fairly quick response. However, the mounting arm does not have fine enough adjustments for a factory looking fit. The whole mounting surface is quite large and sticks out a couple of inches. This interferes with the bottom part of the bezel and pushes the whole screen out about 1.25", which looks added on and just a bit odd. It might be possible to dremel out sections of the bezel to give clearance to push the screen toward the dash, but if not done exactly right, it would look awful. The arm does have a few adjustments but they are in prescribed intervals. For as much money and time I have invested, I am not loving the results. But I will say, that I really like the AC Controller; it is way nicer to use than pressing the Nav screen.

Here is a double din unit I test fit to see if I liked it better.

The size of the halo is def more fun, but if the bezel was the correct size for a double din (the toyota bezel is just a bit larger than US standard double din), it might look better than the Halo... at least more factory. Advice to anyone who might tackle this... skip the Toyota bezel and order an double din bezel from Australia. I would love to see a custom iPad mount in an LC.

 

[alta]

I started a new thread specific to my installation here: Navigation Delete 07.2009 - 01.2012 (w Aftermarket Stereo & Amp Install)

 

[jerryb]

I'm sorry I didn't see this earlier.

the .64 terminals for the g1 should be these, 1123343-1 (Loose Piece) TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser

that's what I use for the .64 III with 22 gauge wire. That will be the exact same thing as the 82998-12870 toyota repair wire.

the f10 should be 1.0 III, and if the repair wire is 82998-12690 then the same terminal is this, 316837-2 (Cut Strip) TE Connectivity | Mouser

you can get those as loose pieces from other places instead of the 100 minimum from mouser. From what txsundevil posted the f11 is the same as the G1 as far as terminal goes.

if someone wants a sample to test I can send out a pair to check for shipping cost.

 

[alta]

I'm sorry I didn't see this earlier.

the .64 terminals for the g1 should be these, 1123343-1 (Loose Piece) TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser

that's what I use for the .64 III with 22 gauge wire. That will be the exact same thing as the 82998-12870 toyota repair wire.

the f10 should be 1.0 III, and if the repair wire is 82998-12690 then the same terminal is this, 316837-2 (Cut Strip) TE Connectivity | Mouser

you can get those as loose pieces from other places instead of the 100 minimum from mouser. From what txsundevil posted the f11 is the same as the G1 as far as terminal goes.

if someone wants a sample to test I can send out a pair to check for shipping cost.

You are correct, the repair wire for the F10 connector should be 82998-12690 and G1 is 82998-12870.

The repair wire for the F11 connector should be 82998-12750.

 

[jerryb]

The F10 toyota # 90980-11911 takes mouser terminals #571-316837-2 cut strip. They are 25 cents each online. The Housing is 6.80$ from toyota. I have not found a matching TE conn/AMP housing, yet.

The F11 toyota # 82824-21030 takes mouser terminals #571-1123343-1 loose piece. They are 10 cents or so. The housing is 6.50$ from toyota. I have not found a matching TE conn/AMP housing, yet.

The G1 toyota # 90980-12552 Terminals for this one I can't really find online. I've ordered some from rakuten,
That claim to be the right ones. we'll see.
025-AMP-0.64 - 3 female connector non-waterproof 035056 / F 025-AMP3-035056(F025-AMP3-035056)
Unit Price JPY 26 x 26 pcs = JPY 676

if the pic is right they, are correct. That terminal is odd. It's not a regular .64 iii
You can also order the regular repair wires (copies) from there for pretty cheap.

 

[jerryb]

The G1 toyota # 90980-12552 Terminals are these ones. 1674311-1 TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser

you can find them on digikey with no minimum. I got the ones from japan and they're correct.
if anyone wants these three toyota plugs with enough wires to fill all the positions let me know. (extra wires to fill the spots that are blank or in case I missed one)
send me a note.

 

[Rinat]

Good deal. I just compared the 2002 radio wiring to the 2009. Looks like they are just about the same and the new head unit can be connected with a Metra harness and get all the power, antenna and speaker stuff attached. They also make a control to keep the stereo steering wheel controls and there is info out there to utilize the factory back up camera with the aftermarket unit.

Could you confirm please? I would like to make modification for my head unit, but don't mind to leave JBL system (my LC is late 200).
I think you are talking about this unit Amazon product ASIN B00133RCCC

 

[jerryb]

@Rinat

 

[Lord Al Sorna]

I have been thoroughly studying the information in the two threads on here about 200 series nav delete, huge thank you for the pioneers on here that have figured it out. I am having some issues with my factory nav in the 2008 LC I just picked up, and would love to do this modification. That said, I have what may be a very basic question about how this is done:

-Using the repair wires, are you cutting and splicing these new repair wires to the factory wires after you build out the new plugs?

 

[alta]

-Using the repair wires, are you cutting and splicing these new repair wires to the factory wires after you build out the new plugs?

Yes, the new plugs, with the repair wires installed, will have roughly 6" pigtails, so you need to solder/heat shrink a length of wire to each one and then run each individual wire back to either the location you are tapping (splicing) into (ECU or other system location) or to the original plug. If the original plug, you can splice it into the existing wire or simply cut it and solder/heat shrink.

 

[Torres Braga]

The F10 toyota # 90980-11911 takes mouser terminals #571-316837-2 cut strip. They are 25 cents each online. The Housing is 6.80$ from toyota. I have not found a matching TE conn/AMP housing, yet.

The F11 toyota # 82824-21030 takes mouser terminals #571-1123343-1 loose piece. They are 10 cents or so. The housing is 6.50$ from toyota. I have not found a matching TE conn/AMP housing, yet.

The G1 toyota # 90980-12552 Terminals for this one I can't really find online. I've ordered some from rakuten,
That claim to be the right ones. we'll see.
025-AMP-0.64 - 3 female connector non-waterproof 035056 / F 025-AMP3-035056(F025-AMP3-035056)
Unit Price JPY 26 x 26 pcs = JPY 676

if the pic is right they, are correct. That terminal is odd. It's not a regular .64 iii
You can also order the regular repair wires (copies) from there for pretty cheap.

View attachment 1880395

Dear Jerryb, I have done the surgery of my 2008 LC200 Sahara and replaced the multidisplay headunit with a 12 inch after market radio from china and managed to get the sound, Hazard Switch and AC working on LIN system thatnks to many of your posts and I wonder if you still have the hazard swich connector F11 with repair wires available to make a deal.

 

[jerryb]

I sent a PM

 

[Lord Al Sorna]

I have all the parts and am getting ready to perform surgery. That said, there is one more thing I am having a hard time understanding before I start building plugs:

Where you guys are showing the plug diagrams with numbered wire locations - are you looking at the back of the plug (where wires go in), or are you looking at the front of the plug and thus need to figure out the mirror image to get the wires in the correct locations? I have tried to look all over these diagrams for some reference point but can't see anything.

 

[alta]

I have all the parts and am getting ready to perform surgery. That said, there is one more thing I am having a hard time understanding before I start building plugs:

Where you guys are showing the plug diagrams with numbered wire locations - are you looking at the back of the plug (where wires go in), or are you looking at the front of the plug and thus need to figure out the mirror image to get the wires in the correct locations? I have tried to look all over these diagrams for some reference point but can't see anything.

I wish it was cut and dry, but the real answer is it could be either. I have a Haynes manual that is opposite the Factory docs. And obviously the male is opposite the female. I found the only reliable approach was to always double check your orientation using the neighboring wires' colors. I also labeled all wires I removed with their original numbered location, mostly for sanity check, troubleshooting and a roll-back plan.

 

[Lord Al Sorna]

OK, thank you for the intel and quick response. I will keep that in mind as I start to get this organized and get my head into it fully.