Navigation Delete 07.2009 - 01.2012 (w Aftermarket Stereo & Amp Install) (2 Viewers)

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Navigation Delete 07.2009 - 01.2012

• Kenwood Exceleron Headunit - DDX9904S
• Morel Tempo Ultra Component speakers - 572 (rear) & 692 (front)
• Morel 4 channel Amp - MPS 4.400

I am happy to announce that I have successfully deleted the factory navigation from my 2010 200. I used an over-seas OEM Climate Control, US-Spec OEM clock assembly, OEM hazard switch and aftermarket Head unit, amp and speakers. The sound is much better than the factory JBL, and I love having direct access to the climate control interface.


Why?

I was not happy with the factory JBL sound, so sound quality was my primary motivator. I felt it lacked depth and could not keep up with normal road frequencies (seemed to cancel out the mid and low end). I knew that non-US spec’ed rigs used a separate Climate Control interface, so I thought it should be doable. So... after a fair bit of initial research, I jumped into the deep end...

A secondary motivator was that I really wanted to be able to provide others with a plug and play harness option. While this could perhaps be accomplished with custom connectors, there are a few significant hurdles. First, the cost of the plugs, and repair wires specifically, would push the cost well over $1k. Also as far as off-the-shelf availability, not all the required female plugs to build a harness are available through toyota.


Year Ranges

My research showed notable differences in wiring and part numbers between different year ranges:

Wiring:

• Through 07.2009
• 07.2009 - 01.2012
• 01.2012 - 2016 (08.2015???)

Parts:

• 09.2007 - 08.2010
• 08.2010 - 01.2012
• 01.2012 - 08.2015

I believe the Nav-delete conversion can be done for all years through 08.2015, but the details of wiring and part numbers do change. @TXSunDevil has the wiring pin out done for the 09.2007-07.2009 models on this thread: 2008-2009 LC Navigation Delete


I also want to send out a big THANK YOU to @TXSunDevil and @HRTROB. Those guys did some great preliminary work, that ultimately give me the confidence to try this.


Required Parts

• Climate Control Interface (Toyota OEM) - 55900-60F11
  • 09.2007-08.2010 - 55900-60F11 - (replaces 60F10) - 4-zone, deicer (cold weather package), auto wipers
  • 09.2007-08.2010 - 55900-60F21 - (replaces 60F20) - 4-zone, No deicer
  • 08.2010-01.2012 - 55900-60F41 - (replaces 60F40) - 4-zone, &EMV+DVD CHANGER+AM/FM JBL 14SPEAKE
  • 01.2012-08.2015 - 55900-60L20 - 4-zone, auto AC
  • 01.2012-08.2015 - 55900-60L40 - 4-zone, AUDIO (OVERSEAS MARKET)-EMV + DVD + AM/FM JBL 14SPEAKER
• Hazard Switch (Toyota OEM) - 84332-60280
• Clock Assembly (Toyota OEM US-spec, not overseas) - 83910-60200
• F10 connector (for Climate Control): 90980-11911
• F10 repair wires: 82998-12690 (11 needed)
• G1 connector (for clock): 90980-12552
• G1 repair wires: 82998-12870 (9 needed)
• F11 connector (for hazard switch): 82824-21030
• F11 Repair wire: 82998-12750 (4 needed)
• 2-Din bezel (Ebay from germany or australia) (OEM is not actually a standard size)
• 2-din radio brackets: 86211-60230, 86212-60230
• Head Unit (2-din
• Amp
• Speakers
• Steering Wheel Control module - Maestro ADS-MRR Universal
• Amp install kit
• Sound Mat for doors

General Steps

1. Spend time with the wiring diagram
   1. Make sure you understand the plug numbering (sometimes backwards) & male vs female plugs
   2. Double check yourself using the wire color codes
   3. Use multiple sources of information… but TIS is the best definitive source (worth a brief subscription)
2. Remove Dash
3. Wire Climate control, clock & hazard switch (airbag light will stay on w/o clock)
4. Wire head unit
5. Install amp
6. Install speakers

Wiring Diagrams

A good wiring diagram for your specific year and probably a subscription to TIS is an essential prerequisite. I started with a Haynes manual, which is good, but lacks specific information like connector and repair wire part numbers. Also the hyperlinks in TIS makes it very convenient to explore the relationship between various parts of the electrical system. Other oddities of note, TIS numbers the wires opposite from the way Haynes numbers there plugs (looking from opposite sides of the connection), so make sure you spot check your assumptions by comparing the wire colors to what the diagram states. In my experience, the colors were always correct.

Wiring Diagrams Attached... Pictures and details to follow.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

 

[TXSunDevil]

You are the man!! I can't wait to see pictures of the new dash

 

[Markuson]

Now if you can put together packages of these many components for sale...you could make a pretty penny...sort of like the couple hundred rear hatch interiorrelease button kits, but on a larger $ scale.

I would love to dump my 2008’s screen...especially if I could skip the high-dollar amp choice.

 

[dwai]

OMG I would love to see someone complete this project!

 

[TXSunDevil]

OMG I would love to see someone complete this project!

He did it and will be updating the thread with the pictures

 

[dwai]

He is a gentleman and scholar

 

[Itsky]

Yes!

 

[TonyP]

Nicely done! Glad it worked out.

Getting rid of the MFD climate controls alone is worth the cost.
Snag an Android head unit and get an up to date road naviation, in-dash Torque App usage, BCN/Gaia, aftermarket speakers/amp, ect...
Cool stuff.

 

[HRTROB]

Glad you got it sorted out, was happy to help!!

By the way, Pioneer makes a radio specifically for Toyotas that use the wider 200mm size like in the non-nav 200. It has CarPlay too! Model # is AVH-ZL5150BT

AVH-ZL5150BT - Pioneer

 

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That is great to know about the Pioneer option. The pics below shows the 2 different head units I tried. The larger one is the Alpine iLX-F309 (singe din w a 9" screen). I thought the screen size would be perfect, but I didn't like how it looked "stuck on" and not integrated. The second pic is the Kenwood DDX9904S. The bezel I currently have installed is the Toyota OEM version with the modified nav brackets. I have a 3rd party 2-din bezel (ebay) that I will install once I get the new OEM brackets (my modified brackets are very close, but not exact). The holes at the bottom of the bezel are from my attempt to get the Alpine to better align with the dash and not cover the clock. I didn't mind modifying the bezel because one of my original plans was to glass in an iPad holder and connect the ipad to the aftermarket radio via USB. I am happy enough with the Kenwood's interface, that the iPad is not an immediate priority.

 

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Pin Out
Here is a link to my pinout spreadsheet. The first tab is a general notes page that lists the connectors, their Codes and Part Numbers. The second tab is the meat of the conversion, listing: AC Assembly, Hazard Switch and Clock assembly. The third tab was my rollback plan, which gives a quick reference to the original connectors and the affected wires.

PinOutSpreadsheet

Part References

Finding the required parts can be tricky. The obvious starting point is to enter your VIN into partsouq.com. Other sources to cross check the info are: ilcats.ru and toylexparts.com. I successfully ordered a number of parts from partsouq.com but I have no experience with the other two. However they did help narrow down specific part numbers and give further confidence before ordering.


Toyota Wiring Part numbers vs Codes

One very important thing to understand is that a Toyota part number is unique to a specific plug or repair wire so it is the same across different models or year ranges. However a wiring Plug or Connection Code is unique to a specific year range and refers to a combination of part number + location. It was confusing to me when I would read about a G1 in the 80 series forum with a given part number, but the information didn’t match a G1 for my ‘10. A G1 may also differ between a ‘08 200 vs an ‘11 or ‘15 200. Just remember that a wiring Code is a combination of part number + location inside the vehicle.

Both E2 (main body ecu) and E36 (ac amp assembly) are locations you need to run wires and tap into.

 

[Whiskerz]

Very nice

 

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Remove the Dash
LandCruiser 200 - Dash Pull-Apart - Project 200

Back of Navigation Unit

Wire Climate control, clock & hazard switch
I wired up the climate control first to make sure it was compatible with my vehicle and to verify all the rear controls would work exactly the same way. The operation is flawless and perhaps better than through the nav because the buttons are more responsive. I had some initial hurdles because I tried unsuccessfully to use recycled terminal ends from other plugs I would be retiring. After buying new repair wires, it worked flawlessly.


A word of warning… it turns out that the clock assembly needs to be hooked up for the SRS (airbag) system to pass its checks. Therefor, my airbag light was on for quite a few weeks until I sorted out the correct clock unit (the first clock I purchased did not work with my SRS system - lacked front passenger airbag light).


Climate Control
Most of the connections are pretty straight forward (wires are behind the center of the dash), except F10#5. I was not able to find FE4 (junction), so I ran a wire down to E36#20 (AC Amp Assembly - left side of passenger footwell, under the dash). While there, I also tapped into E36-#5, however admittedly there is probably an easier/closer source for the IG+ connection.

F10 is the new plug that interfaces with the Climate Control Module.

PICTURE: AC Amp Assembly (middle plug is the one we want)

 

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Here is the Main Body ECU #2 (middle plug - thank you @HRTROB for the pic)

Clock Assembly
The only tricky connection was #6. I couldn’t find any of the junction connections listed in the EWD so I ended up running a wire all the way to the E2-#16 Main Body ECU (behind far left side of dash). I have noted the repair wire needed in the Pinout spreadsheet, however I never used it. I ended up just splicing into the existing wire because I didn’t know what else the ACAN connection was feeding and didn’t want to risk orphaning another piece of hardware on the network.

Hazard Switch
Nothing tricky here…

 

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Soldering

Many of the wires have extremely small diameters (22ga), so I did not feel comfortable using a wire tap. Therefore I used solder and heat shrink on all of my connections. I did make one mistake early on, which was putting the rigid solder connection too close to the connector end (plug). This put stress on the terminal end (changing it’s angle as the wires moved) and made the terminal connections unreliable. In two cases they even broke. Keeping the connection ~3” away from the end helped alleviate this issue.

Speaker Install

I installed Morel Tempo Ultra 692 6x9 components in the front doors and 572 5x7 components in the rear doors. I will eventually reuse the sub enclosure in the back, but I am satisfied with the fullness of the sound for now.

The front tweeters were installed in the stock A-pillar location. I used a hole saw to drill out the factory tweeter mount and insert the new tweeter surround (joined together with epoxy). They are obviously different colors, but I think the resultant fit looks clean.

I was not able to run new wires to the door speakers because of the proprietary wiring channel. The wires run through a unique plastic channel that is very difficult to run additional thicker wires through. I was able to get a single pair through using a wire tape, but the deformation was too great so I pulled it out in favor of the factory wires. Using the factory wiring is not ideal, but given the tolerances of these vehicles, it was not a battle I was up for.

The rear door tweeters fit under the existing tweeter's plastic grill. They were slightly larger in diameter, so I used a hole saw to hog out just enough plastic to make a snug fit.

I used 6x9 and 5x7 largely because they were on sale (round were about $350 more). I had to stand off both speakers (spacers between the door metal and the speaker frame) to make sure the larger magnets didn't interfere with the window glass, but otherwise there is plenty of room under the door panels and it was a fairly easy install.

Here is a shot of the rear 5x7 and it's crossover.

 

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Amplifier Install

The amp went in very smoothly. There is a rubber grommet on the driver's side of the firewall with an extra nipple, I use to run the amp's power cable to the battery (no drilling required). The rubber grommet is very tight, so I used a teflon lubricated fish tape to get the wire through.

Here is a shot of the floor board under the driver's seat with the factory amp removed and the carpet cutout to accommodate the new amp.

The 4-channel Morel amp 4.400 fits perfectly. I originally considered a larger amp with a 5th sub channel, but it would have been too long. The 4-channel has plenty of breathing room. I ended up mounting a 1/4" piece of marine grade plywood as a base for the amp. That way the amp is completely isolated from the vehicle's metal chassis, reducing the likelihood of electrical system interference.

The plugs on the left (above pic) are the now unused harness connectors for the factory amplifier. As mentioned above, I did have to abandon the idea of running new wires from the amp to the new door speakers due to the proprietary wire chase and the door hinge.

Below is the all-important amp ground wire connection, neatly tucked under the seat.

 

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Toyota Wire Repair Guide

This is worth a read through before you start. The tool that is mentioned is essential to get the repair wires free of the connectors. It is a very delicate operation that doesn't require any force. If it doesn't easily come out then you have the angle wrong or the tool you fabricated is too thick.

 

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Snag an Android head unit and get an up to date road naviation...

@HRTROB can you give details of your android head unit? It looks great! Where did you get it, would you recommend it, etc?
(stole your pic from the 2008 Delete thread)

 

[Sinister]

@HRTROB can you give details of your android head unit? It looks great! Where did you get it, would you recommend it, etc?
(stole your pic from the 2008 Delete thread)

Looks soooo much better.