Please let me know if anyone can physically find this:
2008-2009 LC Navigation Delete (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TXSunDevil
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- Thread starter
- #102
That is a bummer the harness is not there
E2 connector on the main body ECU can easily be seen by removing the left hand side switch panel (the one with the mirror adjustment switch). I tapped into E2 to trigger the rear fog indicator on the cluster when I added rear fogs. Here's a photo of E2
By the way, $20 for 2 days access to TIS isn't bad at all. I had to pay three euros for 1 hour access to Toyota EU TIS 
Here are the clock, AC and stereo diagrams for the European spec 2008-2012 200 series, it might be of help
Here are the clock, AC and stereo diagrams for the European spec 2008-2012 200 series, it might be of help
I have an unused plug behind the lower stereo portion of my USDM '08. It's in the same bundle as the other plugs for the stereo/DVD unit. I had the dash apart just yesterday, but didn't think to investigate. It's white and I want to say it's probably a 6x2 or 8x2. My 200 has nav, is factory amplified, RSE, etc.
I'm anxious to see what you come up with. Let me know if it'd be of any benefit for me to get back into the dash.
Thank you for the offer. Now you have me doubting myself, but I looked and looked but didn't see any unused plugs in my 2010. Maybe I have different factory options? The plug that would be helpful is Fg1:
Even without it, @HRTROB unblocked me by showing the location of the ECU; thank you!!
I planned to begin the surgery over the past weekend. I wanted to hook up the AC control unit before I ordered the rest of the stereo parts (amp and head unit). However, part of my plan was to scavenge most of the terminal ends from other unused connections (from nav and amp). For example, the G1 clock connector is the same part number as F42 on the Amp. Other connectors that share the same G1 terminals are F44 and 47. This approach saves me about $350, buying 20 repair wires (9 for G1 and 11for F10) and another connector. Admittedly, the rollback plan is far more involved, but I believe the chance of success is high enough that it is a reasonable gamble.
Sadly, I was not able to continue last weekend, because I could not get the terminal ends free from the connectors. I tried again yesterday, but still no luck. Has anyone done this successfully? The attached cut sheets for the required ends show the double locking terminals. I popped the retaining bar from the top, one click. I searched the Wire Repair Guide and it appears that they should come loose if I push an angled tool (small screw driver or something filed at a 45deg angle), but so far I have not had success getting them loose. Any sage advice?
Sadly, I was not able to continue last weekend, because I could not get the terminal ends free from the connectors. I tried again yesterday, but still no luck. Has anyone done this successfully? The attached cut sheets for the required ends show the double locking terminals. I popped the retaining bar from the top, one click. I searched the Wire Repair Guide and it appears that they should come loose if I push an angled tool (small screw driver or something filed at a 45deg angle), but so far I have not had success getting them loose. Any sage advice?
- Thread starter
- #108
I have disassembled one a while back. Is there an electronics supply store in your area who could show you and maybe have a special tool?
I have the full FSM... PM me if you need copies of any wiring diagramsBy the way, $20 for 2 days access to TIS isn't bad at all. I had to pay three euros for 1 hour access to Toyota EU TIS
Here are the clock, AC and stereo diagrams for the European spec 2008-2012 200 series, it might be of help
Well, the good news is that I was able to figure out the removal of the terminals, and I got the climate control unit installed and working... briefly. I had everything hooked up for the F10 plug and was able to cycle fan speed, temp, etc. Everything seemed to work great: The temp readings were in Fahrenheit, the temp buttons on the vents work, the rear climate was working, outside temp was showing correctly (since the new clock no longer shows outside temp). The only issue I see is that my airbag warning light is on. I am hoping that this will turn off once I have the new clock hooked up, as it interfaces with the SRS circuits.
I was feeling good! However, when I put the dash back together and started the engine, the climate control unit was blank. I pulled everything apart again, and discovered that the ground pin had broken where the wire attaches to the terminal. It appears that the way i created my repair wires, (by salvaging terminals from other abandoned sources and then soldering new wire to the ends close to the terminal) was flawed. The soldered connection was too rigid and put undo stress on the terminal itself. The reason I did it this way, was that in many cases the donor wires were a thinner gauge than the wire it being hooked up to. Putting the soldered connection adjacent to the terminal pin would essentially remove the smaller wire from the equation.
Once that was fixed, I was able to test everything and all seemed to be wired correctly and work. Sadly, every time I put the climate unit in place (or moved it at all), the buttons would stop responding (not blank, just frozen). If I moved the unit or jiggled the terminal plug, it would start responding again, but it was very sporadic. Sometimes one or two buttons would work were others would not. I am not sure if this is a symptom of a faulty ground, or other bad connections at the terminal. I really hope I didn't get a knockoff control unit from partsouq or that I am blaming the wiring when it is really one of the computers trying to figure out the new unit.
I am confident that my connections going to the new terminals are good (all soldered and heatshrinked), so it must be the terminals interfacing with the pins. I must have fatigued the outer terminals when I gathered the wires together before final reassembly, or perhaps I damaged one or two during the removal process. Playing around with the plug broke another terminal, so I definitely have a problem. At this point, I am going to get new repair wires and wire everything again. I think it is fair to say that it was a bad idea to skimp on the repair wires.
It sounds like the climate unit wiring is loose at the harness. It could be the ground or any wire really.
If you get this working I hope you'll do a full write-up with wiring diagrams.
The ultimate solution would be if one could buy the Toyota wiring connectors separately and create plug-and-play harnesses, but that's probably a pipe dream since half the connectors are part of the head unit.
If you get this working I hope you'll do a full write-up with wiring diagrams.
The ultimate solution would be if one could buy the Toyota wiring connectors separately and create plug-and-play harnesses, but that's probably a pipe dream since half the connectors are part of the head unit.
- Thread starter
- #113
It looks like every year is a bit different creating problems for a plug and play solution
I will definitely do a full write up, once I get the bugs worked out.
Honestly, I never wanted to hack up my harness, so a plug and play harness was my original plan. However, there are several barriers. The first one is cost. Even discounted, you are ~$500 in repair wires and plugs, assuming you only build the 3 plugs that are minimally required. That would need to be doubled if you had repair wires and plugs on both ends of the harness, but then several additional connectors + their terminals would have to be added for each existing harness plug you needed to tap. The second challenge is that you would need to find part number for both the male and female versions of both repair wires and plugs. TIS does a good job giving information specific to the wiring harness, but I have not seen information for the parts of the components themselves, like the female plugs on the back of the AC Controller or Nav unit. One could try the even/odd part-number pattern, but it could be an expensive gamble. A 3rd barrier is the connection to the ECU plug or AC Amp Assembly. Perhaps a custom jumper could be built that plugged in between the units. I spent some time searching several online sources for cheaper connectors, but didn't find the exact match and the minimum order sizes were very large.
The way Toyota approaches their electrical connections feels almost German; over engineered and unnecessarily complicated. I suppose we are in an age where every ounce matters; to reduce weight and get max MGP, it might make sense to make 4 different terminals that only very by a fraction of a millimeter... but I question the approach due to the added complication and expense in both manufacturing and maintenance.
Honestly, I never wanted to hack up my harness, so a plug and play harness was my original plan. However, there are several barriers. The first one is cost. Even discounted, you are ~$500 in repair wires and plugs, assuming you only build the 3 plugs that are minimally required. That would need to be doubled if you had repair wires and plugs on both ends of the harness, but then several additional connectors + their terminals would have to be added for each existing harness plug you needed to tap. The second challenge is that you would need to find part number for both the male and female versions of both repair wires and plugs. TIS does a good job giving information specific to the wiring harness, but I have not seen information for the parts of the components themselves, like the female plugs on the back of the AC Controller or Nav unit. One could try the even/odd part-number pattern, but it could be an expensive gamble. A 3rd barrier is the connection to the ECU plug or AC Amp Assembly. Perhaps a custom jumper could be built that plugged in between the units. I spent some time searching several online sources for cheaper connectors, but didn't find the exact match and the minimum order sizes were very large.
The way Toyota approaches their electrical connections feels almost German; over engineered and unnecessarily complicated. I suppose we are in an age where every ounce matters; to reduce weight and get max MGP, it might make sense to make 4 different terminals that only very by a fraction of a millimeter... but I question the approach due to the added complication and expense in both manufacturing and maintenance.
Hey guys, I could really use some help...
I rewired both the clock and the AC Controller using new repair wires. Things seemed to be working well; AC to the rear and fully controllable. However the airbag light is still on, so today when I got the oil changed, I also asked for a printout of any codes it was throwing. I am a bit overwhelmed with the results, so hoping someone would be willing to double check my work.
Here are the codes that are currently being thrown:
ABS/VSC/TRAC:
The solar Sensors can be affected by the Main body ECU (I did jump a wire into an existing at #16, but this error is #18,19,20), or the AC Amp Assembly (however I don't touch E35, only E36). I did't know where the wire that went into #16 was coming from so rather than terminate a needed connection, I spliced the new wire coming from the clock into it a few inches away from the E2 connector.
Any ideas? Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!
I rewired both the clock and the AC Controller using new repair wires. Things seemed to be working well; AC to the rear and fully controllable. However the airbag light is still on, so today when I got the oil changed, I also asked for a printout of any codes it was throwing. I am a bit overwhelmed with the results, so hoping someone would be willing to double check my work.
Here are the codes that are currently being thrown:
ABS/VSC/TRAC:
- U0114 - Lost Communication with 4WD Control ECU
- U0123 - Lost Communication with Yaw Rate Sensor Module
- U0124 - Lost Communication with Lateral Acceleration Sensor Module
- B1421 - Solar Sensor (passenger)
- B1424 - Solar Sensor (driver)
- B1660 - Passenger Airbag ON/OFF Indicator Circuit Malfunction
The solar Sensors can be affected by the Main body ECU (I did jump a wire into an existing at #16, but this error is #18,19,20), or the AC Amp Assembly (however I don't touch E35, only E36). I did't know where the wire that went into #16 was coming from so rather than terminate a needed connection, I spliced the new wire coming from the clock into it a few inches away from the E2 connector.
Any ideas? Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!
There is on another thread how to spoof the air bag with a resistor. It was for removing the middle row seats.
That may remove airbag function though which is likely not desirable.
That may remove airbag function though which is likely not desirable.
Thank you for the suggestion. After going through the entire spectrum from suborn perseverance to throwing in the towel, I have decided to double down and try one final thing. I have placed an order for Clock Assembly part #83910-60200. This is a US-spec clock that does appear to have the airbag on/off light on it. If that doesn't clear the SRS code, I will likely admit defeat and roll back to the Nav system.
- Thread starter
- #119
Your wiring on the airbag light looks solid. Any chance a new pin not set well?
Looks solid here too.
The solar sensors I wouldn't be too concerned about at this point. I do think the clock may fix the SRS code but those ABS/VSC/TRAC codes are weird. After you get the new clock in, I'd have the codes fully cleared and see what re-pops up. Those might just be stored/historical codes from when you were troubleshooting or whatever and not current codes. Especially if you aren't getting ABS/VSC/TRAC lights flashing on your dash. Or it just goes to show that all the systems are tied together in these newer vehicles. Which would suck.
The solar sensors I wouldn't be too concerned about at this point. I do think the clock may fix the SRS code but those ABS/VSC/TRAC codes are weird. After you get the new clock in, I'd have the codes fully cleared and see what re-pops up. Those might just be stored/historical codes from when you were troubleshooting or whatever and not current codes. Especially if you aren't getting ABS/VSC/TRAC lights flashing on your dash. Or it just goes to show that all the systems are tied together in these newer vehicles. Which would suck.
