2006 LX470 Maintenance/Build thread

[snowglobe]

Maintenance & build thread for my LX470.
This main post will be heavily edited.

Recent maintenance:
June 2019: oil change with Mobil 1 5w30 and OEM filter
July 2, 2019: engine air intake filter
... oops, lack of thread maintenance...
late 2019: new 33 inch BFGs on 18 inch original wheels
Feb 2020: electrical maintenance addressing corrosion of components connected to the battery. I thought I also did an oil change at this time but no record.
Sep 2020: new fuel pump and fuel filter, and cabin air filter installed by @2001LC
October 2020: more maintenance by @2001LC, currently ongoing ...

 

[snowglobe]

Installed a new engine air filter: FRAM CA8918 Extra Guard Rigid Rectangular Panel Air Filter

 

[dwh13]

Maintenance & build thread for my pink-panty 100 series.
This main post will be heavily edited.

Recent maintenance:
June 2019: oil change with Mobil 1 5w30 and OEM filter
July 2, 2019: engine air intake filter

Planned near term:
cabin air filter
spark plugs
transmission and gear oil change

Love these kind of maintenance threads as opposed to full on builds. Keep us posted!

 

[snowglobe]

I recently picked up new-to-me OEM rims and Blizzak snow tires

SOLD - Denver- LX470 5spoke wheels with Blizzak tires 4 + 1

Set of 4 matching Lexus 5 spoke gunmetal rims with 265/60-18 Blizzak tires with appropriate 1/2 tread life remaining. Will send photos to show tread depth with gauge, plus spare on mismatched rim with unused matching Blizzak spare- 100% tread life. These wheels/tires will get you around...

forum.ih8mud.com

Also bought a Schley camshaft pully holding tool and Schley harmonic damper pully tool in anticipation of a timing belt change.
Bought a timing belt, fuel filter and other 100 and 80 supplies from AWE-Joey (@NLXTACY).

 

[snowglobe]

Bad weekend. Saturday night I had a no start away from home due to a dead battery. @2001LC gave some helpful advice over the phone while I waited for AAA, but this was due to an issue I’d delayed addressing. The battery was old, but also the terminals were heavily corroded.
AAA was able to jump start the car and I drove it home. Sunday I bought a new 27F battery but the positive terminal fell apart when I tried to remove it from the old one (while loosening the 10mm nut).

I looked up the positive terminal part number for a 2006 LX470/LC100, but I could not find one for the “black box” which connects to the positive terminal. Does anyone have that part number - is it only included in the ridiculously expensive positive cable?

Positive terminal:

82675-60020 - Positive Term 2003-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts

Save Money On Your Positive Term (8267560020) For Your 2003-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

Ridiculously expensive positive cable:

82122-60480 - Positive Cable 2005-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts

Save Money On Your Positive Cable (8212260480) For Your 2005-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

I already have a marine terminal on hand for the positive, if anything will do. I‘m more concerned about correctly connecting to the “black box” after I get that cleaned up, or better yet getting a new one.

 

[snowglobe]

@2001LC has provided alternative links for the positive terminal And “black box”:
positive terminal

BATTERY & BATTERY CABLE | Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GNAEKA UZJ100 | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq

If you are looking for BATTERY & BATTERY CABLE Parts for Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GNAEKA UZJ100 then we advise you to pay attention to the range of our spare parts catalog for Toyota!

partsouq.com

The nut for this is sold separately (!).

”black box” - block assembly, fusible link:

BATTERY & BATTERY CABLE | Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GNAEKA UZJ100 | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq

If you are looking for BATTERY & BATTERY CABLE Parts for Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GNAEKA UZJ100 then we advise you to pay attention to the range of our spare parts catalog for Toyota!

partsouq.com

I don’t know whether that part includes the internal metal parts.


I removed most of the corrosion with baking soda and water, but the 12mm nut attaching the positive terminal to the fusible link is rusted stuck.
I sprayed some Liquid Wrench on the nut and will let it sit.

Big THANKS to @2001LC for taking my call and providing the links!

 

[2001LC]

I gogle the PN # 8262060030 I gave you. Found picture that show the metal part (fusiable link) is included. You'll need the nut 9017908053 also, if you can't get yours off with damage. Bolt is part of the positive terminal. Just do not damage the positive cable.

If you use the Partsouq.com link. On the main page, input your VIN number, you'll get your model and PN #s. You should be able to find everything you may need.

You not likely need the positive cable. That cable runs to start under intake manifold. That is not a DIY job for beginners.

Here's one I've the fusible link off for cleaning.

Positive cable is just hanging on battery. Follow it down and you'll see 4 wire housing blocks. Those attach to the fusible link and positive cable.

I'll post a series of pictures for you.

 

[2001LC]

All cleaned up and reassembled. No new parts were needed on this one.

 

[2001LC]

If it was here, this is what I would do. I'd call Groove Toyota which is closest to me. I'd order from them, positive terminal, nut and fuisble link assy. I'd pack positive clamp nut & bolt threads with wet baking soda, let stand over night over night. Wash and tear down, once OAT above freezing if not in my heated shop. I'd be supper careful to not damage the positive cable. I'd clean everything making it all look like new. Then assemble with old parts and whatever new ones I need to. I'd take back any unused parts.

 

[2001LC]

Re posted from our conversation of nut/bolt stuck on starter wire lug.

A induction coil may work to heat just bolt. Using a torch may not be good idea, as it may melt sheathing of wire.

Otherwise I'd try:

First drill out or cutting/grinding off, without damaging cooper lug on wire.

Second if cooper lug to damage. I'd try replacing just lug.

Last, wold be replacing wire. In this case look in mud for the "big three". This is where guy's are replacing wires with larger sizes, to improve current by reducing resistance. They may have a wire the can be bought to replace the pricey OEM wire. Slee may have one also.

If this just to much for you. I may be able to come over, with a few tools and see if I can help insitu.

 

[snowglobe]

Thank you @2001LC, I finally managed to get off the last nut using just wrenches and a lot of liquid wrench and elbow grease.
I received the new parts from partsouq on Friday.
I forgot to order a new battery hold-down. The existing one is still fine but I may replace that later. It has rust and may have been the original Cause of corrosion ...the battery was installed by a shop and was a little too tall or was overly cranked down, the top of the battery was slightly crushed in. That said, the battery was 6 years old and I‘d put off servicing that part.

I’ll add some pictures after I strip meta data.

 

[snowglobe]

Also, @2001LC, I’m surprised you were able to disassemble the fusible link without breaking plastic. The old fusible link already had some tabs broken and other tabs broke as I pulled it apart. Definitely glad to have a new one.

 

[2001LC]

I clean all batteries as part of all restore work I do and any that come in shop that I can. I also do as part of annual tune up. I add grease to clean battery post and clean clamps. I never over tight the clamps, just snug down the nut, unit clamp will not twist.

I do not use the red stuff so popular these days. If the red stuff is used, that is only sprayed on outside of clamps, after clamps on post. Then I would not use grease on post. The red stuff helps to stop the build up of acid. But it does not stop oxidation on battery post. Grease on post stop oxidation. But the red and grease will not mix. To use both will yield a weak charge and sulfated battery.

All to often someone pulls into a parts store and the friendly counter person swaps battery for them. They don't clean post as they should. It's so important to clean with baking sod water. Then 6 later this is what you get. I see it all the time.

If your battery was so over tighten it leaked acids, than yes that's part of issue. But all standard lead acid batteries, not sealed build up acid deposits.

 

[2001LC]

Also, @2001LC, I’m surprised you were able to disassemble the fusible link without breaking plastic. The old fusible link already had some tabs broken and other tabs broke as I pulled it apart. Definitely glad to have a new one.

I take my time, use good lightening and do with plastic warm (room temp)

 

[BurnsCrew]

Curious on how the transmission fluid will look. I’ve got the 5 speed as well and considering a drain and fill.

 

[2001LC]

How transmission fluid looks, is dependent on use & miles. I'm big on full 12qt flushes. Drain and fills are useful to see condition in non dipstick (04-07), set level (TSB: factory fill is to low) and introduce new fluid to transmission.

Anyone with a 04-07 needs to at minimum, add fluid, if never done!

 

[BurnsCrew]

So I’ve got a 2005. At 190k miles a cup was drained and I was told it looked good so they replaced that cup. I’m at 215k now and I’m planning to do a couple drain and fills with next oil change. Are you suggesting I do multiple drain and fills to replace the total 16 quarts?

 

[snowglobe]

By the way, this vehicle is currently at @2001LC ’s garage being cared for. I replaced the electrical connectors for the battery, as I posted earlier, but @2001LC is doing some TLC.
A few weeks ago the vehicle lost power coasting up a hill near home. There were no warning lights. The engine still ran but had barely enough power to go 5mph. I turned it off, waited 5 minutes, started it up; it had power again and I drove home. I then had @2001LC replace the fuel pump. At that time he noticed corrosion below the brake pump, which I hadnt noticed any signs of in the last year (hadn’t looked very recently).
He‘s doing a radiator flush, brake flush, power steering flush, and AHC flush, and we’ll see what else.

 

[snowglobe]

I was certain I did another Mobil 1 oil change since I started the thread, but @2001LC will do another while installing a Fumoto F103N drain valve. The vehicle is driven less than 5000 miles/year, but is driven several days/week.

 

[snowglobe]

Something else I forgot to mention was the purchase of 33 inch BFG’s late last year. Those are on the original 18 inch rims. The acceleration was noticeably reduced from stock size on mountain highways but they’re fine.