2005 transmission fluid DIY questions

[Rednexus]

I agree. Once you understand how. It easy!

Personally, I like PS flush at no more than 20K miles. A/T fluid 60K or 120K miles, depending on use.

The PS flush is so easy I may increase the frequency. Mine has actually been done closer to the 20K mark as I replaced the steering rack in 2022, so it got all new fluid then. I also added a Magnefine filter to the PS return line as there were definitely some shavings in my old PS fluid, likely due to wear/damage in the rack.

 

[Tareq]

Start engine and ATF will pump out hose you've ran to catch can. You'll be adding fluid (into dipstick or fill hole) as it pumps out. Catch can will fill, at a rate faster than you can add. So stop engine, as ~1 qt more pumped out, than you're able to pour as engine runs. Do not run pan dry, by running engine.

Easy enough, thank you!
I will disconnect either the hose going into or out of the radiator, and fill from the dipstick





Anyone wondering how many drain and fills you need to get all the fluid out, here is a nice explanation

Multiple AT drain and refill a waste of money.

In researching about how to service my own transmission on my 2002 Toyota Sienna I naturally came across the drain and refill method. And what I noticed from some of the post was that people would drain their transmission then fill it then drive it for x amount of time and drain and refill again...

bobistheoilguy.com

here is the transmission drain/refill replacement ratio for his example of replacing 1 qt. in a 4 qt. unit:

#1 25.00%
#2 43.75%
#3 57.81%
#4 68.36%
#5 76.27%
#6 82.20%
#7 86.65%
#8 89.99%
#9 92.49%
10 94.37%


3 liters drained out of our A750 out of 11 liters total is 27% so I should have 60% new after 3 D&F.
Anything more than 3x at a time, you might as well just do a flush as you will basically waste of a lot of new fluid!!

 

[Tareq]

@2001LC
For future reference, the pink line is the one I should disconnect to pump out fluid coming from the transmission, correct?

 

[2001LC]

First I note: Catching At fluid before coolers, leaves old AT fluid in coolers. I catch further downstream, getting the most old out.

Yes your pink circle is coming from AT to pre cooler/warmer, if nobody switched factory routing.

It then goes into the pre cooler/warmer in bottom of engine radiator within bottom plastics. Comes out your blue of PS LWR rad side. Then goes to front AT fluid radiator. Which is smallest radiator of the 3 (engine, AC condenser & AT fluid rads), behind grill. It then comes out AT fluid radiator, and heads back to AT.
BTW: here's, the small pre cooler for AT fluid, removed bottom of engine radiator.

transmission fluid change

forum.ih8mud.com

Blue line is fluid flow out of AT. Red line is return to AT. Red arrow is return pipe, where I attach catch hose. We can add AT fluid to the hose we pull off this return pipe. Shops using a fluid exchange machine, spliced in at red arrow also.

I like to catch AT fluid, after passing both coolers/radiators, at return pipe next to top side of radiator on PS. Note picture below is of 98-02. Starting in 2003, Toyota routed power steering to a cooler in front of radiators also. So above transmission in & out pipes/hoses. We'll see two more pipes/hoses for power steering (PS)

98-02 AT fluid to/from cooler pipe/hose configuration. The 03-up will have two more pipes/hoses above these transmission pipes/hoses, which for PS.

 

[Tareq]

First I note: Catching At fluid before coolers, leaves old AT fluid in coolers. I catch further downstream, getting the most old out.

Thank you for the thorough explanation!
I agree with you, but in this case, is it easier to disconnect the cooler line going all the way back before it enters the transmission body?
Is it a simple clip connecting the hose to the trans back there?

 

[2001LC]

Do from wherever you like.

But if you, study the diagrams I posted for you and or look at AT yourself. You'll see the answers is NO!. I gave you best and easiest. We don't even need to remove the #1 or 2 undershielding. This point, also makes easy to add, if need, with syringe or hand pump into rubber return hose.

What is more important you understand: AT #1 fluid, level is set at temp of 97F to 115F. Also that: check plug (overflow) be removed while engine running and AT in P or N, after shifting through all gears.

Do not try to use flashing dash lights as to determine AT fluid temp. It will result in underfilling AT, as all 04-07 were from the factory.

 

[Tareq]

I just took a pic of my 100 to find the spot for the "RED arrow" .. looks different than your diagram, but I do see the 2 PS lines ...

I think because mine doesn't have AT cooler like North American spec 100s

I assume the blue hose shown in post #63 coming out the radiator goes all the way back to the transmission ..

If correct, it is the last point "downstream" with no more cooling after that, so the spot can technically be the "RED arrow" spot for my 100

I will double check on my next oil change...

 

[Tareq]

Here is the diagram for my 100 JDM transmission lines.
No more cooling after the blue circle in post #63.

 

[2001LC]

Interesting. Last two pic in post 64. Was a 2000 LX470, built for Canadian market. It's just the same as built for USA.

You'll known which is out and which in, when you start engine. Just make sure the both end have catch cans. Or it may get messy.

 

[Tareq]

I found 3 bottles of Redline for 45% off retail on Facebook + free wood that I made into ramps, 5 inches high, so I did my 4th drain & fill within 5k miles/2 years

Even though the car is tilted upwards, still, only 3L came out, as usual. Now I should have ~70% new fluid in, ~50% Redline

I am DONE now, no more drain & fill until 30k miles (or i find another Redline for half price, whichever comes first )