2002 LC100 - Not Starting... ??? Fuel Pump ???

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I have been reading this forum for years, and this is a common issue that pops up in many threads. Mohammed is correct -

replace the 20 amp EFI fuse (even if you know yours is good) - and unplug and reinstall the EFI relay - if either of these "fixes" the problem, then the underlying cause is most likely the fuse block in the engine compartment on the way out. Just pulling and reinserting the fuse and relay may buy you some time (a touch of electrical grease on the contacts may help) but this fix may only last a day or weeks (or years) but will most likely reappear. Ultimately the contacts and wire connections inside the fuse block are on the way out.
 
For those who have replaced the fuse housing have you found any evidence of the root cause here?

What causes the Fuse block to go bad?

How difficult is replacing the fuse block?

Where did you purchase your new fuse block?
 
SOLVED! i know its late but for anyone looking in the future, for series !00 land cruisers and Lx470. if you have a crank and no start issue its not the EFI relay, fuse or fuel pump. It's the fuse block in the engine compartment itself. best way to diagnose it, when you have the no start and cranking only issue, have the key in the ignition and position TWO (where the instrument cluster lights up) see if your check engine light up or not. If your ENGINE light comes on, this is not for you. if your ENGINE light is not on, the pin on the fuse block where the EFI relay plugs (bottom right pin) is not getting contact, therefore you have no fuel and and a no start condition. Try jump a a small wire from Battery positive to the bottom right have pin where the EFI RELAY plugs in with the relay and start the car, should guide you to where the problem sits its upto you on how you solve it with a new fuse block or just finding a way to put contacts for the relay don't throw $$$$$ at the EFI relay or pump etc. i have seen too many people here being misguided i cannot stand it anymore



Good find...I was thinking of the maps sensor. it would do the same.
 
Thanks very helpful, troubleshooted mine today after it died pulling out of a parking lot. Mine was the fuel pump, original with 268,000 Miles. Imprinted Aisan on the pump top.
Only pump I could get this long weekend was a Delphi FE0402. Strainer extra. Pump labelled Made In Japan on the box and is a Denso with Toyota factory part number laser printed on the pump with a sharpie felt pen over it. OEM parts in aftermarket box, fairly common these days. Identical, same plug, no cutting for different wiring plug. Delphi strainer made in China but quality was very good.

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SOLVED! i know its late but for anyone looking in the future, for series !00 land cruisers and Lx470. if you have a crank and no start issue its not the EFI relay, fuse or fuel pump. It's the fuse block in the engine compartment itself. best way to diagnose it, when you have the no start and cranking only issue, have the key in the ignition and position TWO (where the instrument cluster lights up) see if your check engine light up or not. If your ENGINE light comes on, this is not for you. if your ENGINE light is not on, the pin on the fuse block where the EFI relay plugs (bottom right pin) is not getting contact, therefore you have no fuel and and a no start condition. Try jump a a small wire from Battery positive to the bottom right have pin where the EFI RELAY plugs in with the relay and start the car, should guide you to where the problem sits its upto you on how you solve it with a new fuse block or just finding a way to put contacts for the relay don't throw $$$$$ at the EFI relay or pump etc. i have seen too many people here being misguided i cannot stand it anymore

Wish I would have read this before I replaced my 2002 LC fuel pump. :bang:

Replaced the 20A EFI fuse and cleaned and penetroxed all the fuse box contacts and away we go.

Thanks for the post.
 
Is the "bottom right pin" on the bottom right when standing at the front of the vehicle or on the driver side of the vehicle?

SOLVED! i know its late but for anyone looking in the future, for series !00 land cruisers and Lx470. if you have a crank and no start issue its not the EFI relay, fuse or fuel pump. It's the fuse block in the engine compartment itself. best way to diagnose it, when you have the no start and cranking only issue, have the key in the ignition and position TWO (where the instrument cluster lights up) see if your check engine light up or not. If your ENGINE light comes on, this is not for you. if your ENGINE light is not on, the pin on the fuse block where the EFI relay plugs (bottom right pin) is not getting contact, therefore you have no fuel and and a no start condition. Try jump a a small wire from Battery positive to the bottom right have pin where the EFI RELAY plugs in with the relay and start the car, should guide you to where the problem sits its upto you on how you solve it with a new fuse block or just finding a way to put contacts for the relay don't throw $$$$$ at the EFI relay or pump etc. i have seen too many people here being misguided i cannot stand it anymore
 
Seems we had a similar problem with our 105, fuel pump stopped working and car wouldn't fire up on a cold morning (cold where we live is anything under 10ºC). Quick check of the EFI fuse and relay gave some clues, the fuse still showed continuity with the test light but was not in good shape, and wiggling the EFI relay activated the fuel pump briefly even with the suspect fuse in place. So we put a new 20A fuse which got the car started but called our 4wd club auto electrician to take a look and see out what he reckons. Hopefully nothing to expensive :)

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@Hendrik Can I ask if you were able to repair this ^^^ What was your final “fix?”

Yes mate we sorted the problem, although our 105 had an LS conversion done about 5yrs ago (the problem only surfaced when we recently changed out the engine and transmission wiring harness) so unsure if the solution is of any help to you.

Sideshow Performance Wiring / @sideshow1600 said:
You need to run new fuel pump relay and new efi relay and run power to them thru new 20 amp fuse per each relay, and run new battery power for them directly to battery, then wire up the fuel pump wire from fuel pump relay to the orig Toyota fuel pump wire, also don't forget Toyotas run a dual speed fuel pump relay too so make sure the sparky knows what he is doing, ive seen fuel pumps fk up if voltage to them is below 9v.

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For God's sake replace the friggin EFI Fuse under the hood. Too many folks have wasted thousands on this issue just to find a $.25 fuse to blame.

I pulled the fuse and it looked fine. Swapped it with the 20A fuse for the radio, just to see what would happen and the LC started right up. $.25 fuses are now two for $4.99, right? I'll keep the spare in the car.
 
SOLVED! i know its late but for anyone looking in the future, for series !00 land cruisers and Lx470. if you have a crank and no start issue its not the EFI relay, fuse or fuel pump. It's the fuse block in the engine compartment itself. best way to diagnose it, when you have the no start and cranking only issue, have the key in the ignition and position TWO (where the instrument cluster lights up) see if your check engine light up or not. If your ENGINE light comes on, this is not for you. if your ENGINE light is not on, the pin on the fuse block where the EFI relay plugs (bottom right pin) is not getting contact, therefore you have no fuel and and a no start condition. Try jump a a small wire from Battery positive to the bottom right have pin where the EFI RELAY plugs in with the relay and start the car, should guide you to where the problem sits its upto you on how you solve it with a new fuse block or just finding a way to put contacts for the relay don't throw $$$$$ at the EFI relay or pump etc. i have seen too many people here being misguided i cannot stand it anymore
Thanks mate. I have just had the same problem and this bit of info saved the day
 
SOLVED! i know its late but for anyone looking in the future, for series !00 land cruisers and Lx470. if you have a crank and no start issue its not the EFI relay, fuse or fuel pump. It's the fuse block in the engine compartment itself. best way to diagnose it, when you have the no start and cranking only issue, have the key in the ignition and position TWO (where the instrument cluster lights up) see if your check engine light up or not. If your ENGINE light comes on, this is not for you. if your ENGINE light is not on, the pin on the fuse block where the EFI relay plugs (bottom right pin) is not getting contact, therefore you have no fuel and and a no start condition. Try jump a a small wire from Battery positive to the bottom right have pin where the EFI RELAY plugs in with the relay and start the car, should guide you to where the problem sits its upto you on how you solve it with a new fuse block or just finding a way to put contacts for the relay don't throw $$$$$ at the EFI relay or pump etc. i have seen too many people here being misguided i cannot stand it anymore
Mohammed! you are the man! I can not believe this worked. I have been trying to figure this out for months. I have a 2000 LC with 305k. I ran a small wire just as you described and presto! LC fired right up.

Now I need to find a permanent fix. Anyone have any Ideas on how to rectify this issue and bring it as close to factory as possible with out buying a whole new fuse box?
 
The clips that hold the 20AMP fuse in at the EFI get hot and the connection is lost. This happened on my 98 and now again on my 2002. My mechanic figured it out on my 98 and now just fixed it again on my 2002 for $75. You can spend thousands and get a new fuse box (if you can find the right one) and the mess of changing it out or do this simple fix. I put 100K miles on my 98 with it like this before I sold it. See the attached pictures. My symptoms were the same. Wont start, then would start. wiggle the fuse and then it would start. This worked for me and hopefully it can work for you. Happy Cruising!

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If you Google intermittent no start LX470 there's a good video on why the fuse box fails. Inside the box as the connections get old they corrode and start to get hot. It's usually the EFI fuse that melts first, but inside the box where you can't see it the connections start to come apart. So sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. It's a tough call though because so many things can cause a no start. If it's the fuse box there's no fix, you have to replace the box (unless somebody has figured out how to repair it please tell me)
 
Well, as I wrote this the fix was posted, thank you. However, for me I will replace the fuse box as eventually the other stuff will fail.
 
SOLVED! i know its late but for anyone looking in the future, for series !00 land cruisers and Lx470. if you have a crank and no start issue its not the EFI relay, fuse or fuel pump. It's the fuse block in the engine compartment itself. best way to diagnose it, when you have the no start and cranking only issue, have the key in the ignition and position TWO (where the instrument cluster lights up) see if your check engine light up or not. If your ENGINE light comes on, this is not for you. if your ENGINE light is not on, the pin on the fuse block where the EFI relay plugs (bottom right pin) is not getting contact, therefore you have no fuel and and a no start condition. Try jump a a small wire from Battery positive to the bottom right have pin where the EFI RELAY plugs in with the relay and start the car, should guide you to where the problem sits its upto you on how you solve it with a new fuse block or just finding a way to put contacts for the relay don't throw $$$$$ at the EFI relay or pump etc. i have seen too many people here being misguided i cannot stand it anymore
Having a similar issue to others in this post.

Are you referring to the ”check engine” light when you say “engine” light?
 
Again, I would like to thank this community for once again getting me out of a jam.
We were just up in Tahoe and the 99 Land Cruiser died coming downhill, I was able to coast down the Kingsbury Grade and right into the parking lot of our condo.
Found no fuel pressure by pulling the quick connector off of the fuel filter and having the wife turn the key on. Started researching it on here and in 15 minutes I was able to find that melted, custom, two-piece EFI fuse after not seeing the "Check Engine" lamp. Replaced the fuse after checking the connectors, and it started right up.
Nice that there are spares under that cover, but I always carry a few extra anyway.



Thanks to Hendrik and JaromT for those great pictures, there are perfect examples of what you will find in that fuse compartment.

With the help from here, I was able to finish our vacation, enjoy Tahoe, and then drive 4 hours home with no issues. After getting home, I did loosen the fuse block and inspect underneath for any corrosion and found NOTHING! So it must have been just excessive resistance over time on that circuit.

Thanks Cruiser Heads!!!

 
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Hello all. I might have this issue with EFI, but so far no luck. I will describe what is happening and what I did check. It is LC100 1999 with 1HZJ turbo diesl.
What is happening:
Some months ago my engine sudenly stall while driwing and died after few seconds so I have to stop on side of the road. For some minutes I was checking and tried to start with no luck. After few minutes it started and for some months I had no issue. Then few days ago again same issue, but it started immediately on first try after I stopped on side of the road. Today it started for 2seconds and died and from that monent I cant get it started. Previously for few days it did drive OK. Car is still cranking fine.
Now what I did:
->Checked all fuses - all OK
->Did internet research and so I exchanged EFI fuse and checked EFI relay. They work OK and there is no heating or any sign of a deformed plastic cover around fuse or relay. Contacts look clear with no corosion.
-> Did check imobilizer on the key and replaced batery to be sure. Car central lock is functional all the time and that little red icon beside clock on the center panel stop blinking once key is inserted. So I think that imobiliser is working OK. I foud that it could be imobilizer, but one simptom is that even after key is inserted you get this red icon keep blinking red and that is not the case here.
-> I did check Amp draw through EFI fuse and I get 2,5A draw when I turn ignition on and it drops to about 2A while I crank the engine.
-> While I have ignition key on I removed and installed EFI relay and fuse and when I put it back on it clearly passing current as I can hear those solenoids and other relays clicking in engine compartment. So from my point of view EFI fuse and relay working. Could be that they passing too small current as fuse is 20A and I can read only 2,5A on turned ignition. Can anybody measure curent going through his EFI fuse? just for comparison?
-> So I went to check fuel delivery. Disconected hose between filter and rotary pump (that on the engin block which feed injectors). When I turn ignition it dont deliver any fuel. But when I pump by hand pump which is on top of fuel filter I get fuel flowing. So I guess lines from fuel tank and filter are OK.
-> So I went and disconected fuel line in front of a fuelfilter and turned ignition on. No fuel presure. So my guess was that fuel pump is out.
-> So I went to the wiring and disconected wiring harness under the car (left side) - that is like 8pin connector with 5pins ocupied. I wasnt able to find which is which, but I was able to measure just 2,6volts acros some leads which according to manual shoul be signal from fuel level gauge. Thats about right for 1/2 full tank. In anycase it show to me if Im not mistaken that there is no power to fuel pump and possibly to some other systems, but I run out of ideas what to measure and check.
-> Also I did connected blue tooth diagnostic tool and tried to read error codes from ECU, but there were not any. And I can say that it is functional as in the past I was able to read error codes with this device on this car no issue. So I guess that there are no isseu that ECU know about....

So with this all checked. Do you have any idea where to look next? What to measure? I will check also tomorrow fuel pump relay which is in other fuse box in driver footwell, but I doubt it is the issue as I think that without fuel pump engin woul not die instantly and would choke for at least short time. This looks like some part of system is disconected.
Thanks in advance for any help
 
Hello all. I might have this issue with EFI, but so far no luck. I will describe what is happening and what I did check. It is LC100 1999 with 1HZJ turbo diesl.
What is happening:
Some months ago my engine sudenly stall while driwing and died after few seconds so I have to stop on side of the road. For some minutes I was checking and tried to start with no luck. After few minutes it started and for some months I had no issue. Then few days ago again same issue, but it started immediately on first try after I stopped on side of the road. Today it started for 2seconds and died and from that monent I cant get it started. Previously for few days it did drive OK. Car is still cranking fine.

I had these exact symptoms. It was the fuse box (82720-60023). Why the box needs to be replaced (end of video). Sure, there are workarounds, but it's a failure caused by time and heat. Might mean more are on the way. Best to just bite the bullet and replace it before the fuse boxes become one of those out of production/unobtanium parts.
 
Alright.... I have some development of this issue. FOR THIS MOMENT IT IS SOLVED FOR ME, BUT DRIWING LONG TERM TEST IS PENDING

This morning I came to car and it started right up but run for like 10seconds and died. From that moment same story - cranking fine but no starting up.
I tried to measure all kind of leads and fuses again with no luck.
So in desparation I started to move cables to and from fuse box and I did aply presure to plastic cover on the bottom side of a fuse box in attemps to perhaps move some wires and or connectors to possibly restore conductivity before I disassemble it or perhaps order new fuse box.
Also I moved connectors in the area including some control unit which is beside the fuse box.
And car started right up.... No clue why so I kept tinkering.
So I found following:
-> While car is running I disconected fuel hose coming to the fuel filter (to remind I have 1HZJ 4,2l turbo diesl). I was expecting some stream of fuel, but non was coming out. Engin kept running for some 10-15sec befor it slowly died from no fuel. So I reconected hose and pumped few times with hand fuel pump. And engine cranked few times over and came back to live. Im surprised as I expected pump to be going and steady and perhaps slow fuel flow, but nothing. Yet engin is running and I also tried to load it for some misutes to like 3/4 rpm and it goes fine. Runing in idle for 10minutes. No sighn of any hickup. So despite no strong fuel flow it is going fine. I dont know if there should be presure or not, but car is running at least for this time no issue and there is no presure.
-> So I went to tinker with cables while car was running to see if I move it and perhaps disconect something again. Nothing happen as I tried to move cables and push again on bottom of the fuse box. Car running strong not even short chocking or slowing rpm.
->So I begin to move conectors and found that as I touched and moved just a little with that conector from that control unit engin sudely died. So I tried starting and it was dead again. So I wigle that conector on that control unit for a bit and apply some conductor spray, cleaned inside and reconected. Car started right up. So I tried to move that conector again and after moving some milimetrs towards unpluging car died again. So I think I found it. After some testing I found also it happens when you disconnect it replicate check engine light same as happen to me before when engin went out during driwing. If you plug it in and start engin immediately then check engine light goes off after few seconds. I dont know if this is solution for me for 100% as also it could happen that I restored some conection while moving those other cables and or pushed on the bottom fo fuse box. I will see and update here if there will be some development for me.
->Still I have a feeling this might be my problem as that engin went out just by only touching that conector initially. There was probably some cold conection. I will see on long term driwing.
-> Also for EFI relay draw was initially 4A and dropped to 1,6-2A. I had multimetr connected for 10minutes instead of fuse and draw was consistent while car was running.
->I tried to attach picture of problematic connector and also that unit. Perhaps it will help to someone. I still dont know what that unit is and what for, but clearly it kill engin. I will figure it out once I get time. If someone know then please let me know here.
Good luck

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