2001 knocking sound over bumps

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No torquing required; drive flange stays in place.

It's interesting that Cory mentions jacking the wheel. I've never had to, I always do the hub side first and then drive the inner into the diff. But in this case that makes sense.

These make removing/replacing the snap ring easy as pie.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000I1OXKO/ref=nosim/ihco-20

IMG_3432.jpg
 
Hope you has a nice crisp 90 deg edge on the outer spline of axle, where snap ring butts up.
 
yes pulled the drive flange nuts but have since put them back on. I must be missing something the shaft won't budge with the wheel jacked or not. I can't get it to move in or out of the hub. Probably not articulating this well but that is the best explaination I can come up with....Thanks going to read a bit more on this tonight. Thanks again all for all the responses.
 
May be binding, put some muscle on CV rocking front to rear and top to bottom.
 
I had a CV jam itself in the diff. I know you are trying to push it back in, but it took a lot of hammering and twisting to get the splines to mesh properly. Considering you probably had 40% of the splines engaged. I would assume they have overlapped some and jammed it in there. Jack the wheel up, have somebody rock it back and forth while you push it in.
 
2001LC said:
In the picture it looks like he pulled the flange nuts.
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Good eye. Missed that.

newbtrayback said:
yes pulled the drive flange nuts but have since put them back on. I must be missing something the shaft won't budge with the wheel jacked or not. I can't get it to move in or out of the hub. Probably not articulating this well but that is the best explaination I can come up with....Thanks going to read a bit more on this tonight. Thanks again all for all the responses.
Click to expand...

Well, might as well just pull the drive flange at this point and get her to slide in so you can look at the splines? Can you move it further toward the center of the vehicle or is it stuck in both directions?
 
Stuck both directions but I have only tried to free up by hand. I have not tried to "break" it loose with a hammer. where is the best place to strike it with a hammer? Will try it in the AM.
 
2000UZJ said:
I'd run a bolt into the CV and tap that. I wouldn't stick anything near the splines.
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Good call.

Also try running a bolt/washer through a breaker bar In to your CV and leverage it against a piece of wood on your hub.
 
Got it. I read Trunkmonkey's earlier post and he mentioned threading a 12mm into the cv....I can tap that and see if that breaks it loose. I saw the hole in center of shaft but it was packed full of grease so missed that it had threads.
 
2000UZJ said:
I'm following, kind of. By doing this you are "pressing" (more like pulling) the CV correct?
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Yes, you're pulling the CV outward through the hub. I found the breaker bar to be a good device to hold on to for either pulling or leveraging to move the axle. I typically do this after greasing the needle bearings.
 
With the clip off the axle shaft and the shaft retracted, there is a LOT less contact surface between the axle and the drive flange plate. That flange plate is made to be sacrificial - it's the softer metal of the two. If you only have 1/4" of contact or so, it's possible that you've actually twisted the splines inside the drive flange but haven't yet stripped them out completely. In that scenario, the axle shaft gets "stuck" and won't extend out through the rest of the flange due to the now-offset splines.

Best thing to do is to remove that drive flange and inspect. Easiest way to remove it is to back the nuts off to the end of the studs, flush with the end of the stud, and tap the nut/stud with a hammer and MAKE SURE YOU STRIKE IT FLAT ACROSS THE ENTIRE FACE. It takes a decent lick to knock the split washers free. Increase the force until they pop, one by one, then you can remove the nuts, washers, split washers, and finall the drive flange. Once off, thoroughly inspect the drive flange for damaged splines. Then you should be able to pull the CV back into position and either reinstall or replace (if damaged) the drive flange and re-assemble.
 
Got it! Splines look fine. Have it all Back together with New clip ring. I did notice while under The truck both boots appear to have a little weeping. Not torn but it looks like Grease is geting by The clamps. I have been Reading two schools of thought On this. One says replace with boot kit And The other is replace Axel And all. With 141k On The truck i think i Will replace axels. Cdan Will hè getting a call in The next year

Thanks again for. All The help. Hope i can return The favor sometime. I am in The steel business so if any of you are in Houston area and Need stainless, Carbon or aluminum let me know
 
If you know the leak(s) is fairly new (not from PO) and reasonably sure not much has seeped out then just re-clamp. I like NAPA crimp clamps, the off road guys like all SS screw clamps.
 
Go with the clamps from pfran. Primo. Rolled edges won't cut boots. No leaks.
 
FWIW, your snap ring came off due to a failure. It may be the wheel bearing were not tight enough causing claw (IIRC) washer to become grooved and or you don't have correct gap at snap ring. These are two possibilities I'd address ASAP, or risk it coming off again.

Did you have a good 90 deg surface, where snap ring buttes?
 
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