- Thread starter
- #21
bull said:
Nitto Terra Grapplers 33 x 13.50 x 18
2001 Buildup
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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Nitto Terra Grapplers 33 x 13.50 x 18
macneill
Rollin’ on 33s
wngrog said:
I got that part, it just looks extraordinarily high, almost AHC?
Maybe it's just me
We dont use any of the index marks when changing the torsion bars, but set the thread of the adjusters flush with the top of the round section they screw into, slip the bar in, hold them in position, fit other end cap lining up A arm holes while at full droop, then adjust the adjuster back to standard position it was with old t bars, [we always wire brush the thread before undoing, and anti seize before doing up] then we normally only need a slight tweak once car is measured [5 turns of the adjuster = 3/4" fender to rim measurement] and the left [yr driver side] nomally has slightly different arientation to the rh side] to get the height spot on for each vehicle as listed below.
copyied from bulls build post-
"You should maintain a minimum of 70mm [2.75"] of droop in the 100 IFS front set up, if you have a Slee diff drop fitted, to stop the cv boots wearing out. [boot pleats shouldnt be touching in straight ahead position at ride height]
This is normally 50-60mm higher than standard, depending on accessory levels.
on a 16" rim this makes for 770mm [30.3"] measurenent from bottom of rim bead edge up through centre of wheel to fender edge when set up correctly.
Rear should be aprox 790-800mm [31.5"]"
copyied from bulls build post-
"You should maintain a minimum of 70mm [2.75"] of droop in the 100 IFS front set up, if you have a Slee diff drop fitted, to stop the cv boots wearing out. [boot pleats shouldnt be touching in straight ahead position at ride height]
This is normally 50-60mm higher than standard, depending on accessory levels.
on a 16" rim this makes for 770mm [30.3"] measurenent from bottom of rim bead edge up through centre of wheel to fender edge when set up correctly.
Rear should be aprox 790-800mm [31.5"]"
- Thread starter
- #24
How is the best way to measure drop? I would like to go higher in the front if I can get away with it.
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- #25
macneill said:
The ass is way high. 863s
I don't like the looks, but I need to get my bumper installed and the storage box filled before I worry too much.
wngrog said:
Measure the car from bottom rim edge to fender while jacked at up and fully drooped front suspension, [which is where my quoted measurements are from] then measure it at normal ride height, but not straight after letting the vehicle back down, drive it first to ensure the suspension isnt still "tucked up" on the A arm/tyres which will make it sit higher when first on the ground, until you move the car and it "normalises".
There should be a minimum of 70mm [2.75"] difference between the 2 measurements which is the amount of droop the front end has per side.
The rear should also have a 70mm minimum of droop, so it doesnt top the shockers out all the time.
- Thread starter
- #27
ats4x4dotcom said:
Mine is 32" in the front with 18" wheels so I am close enough, but as high as I can go.
wngrog said:
with 2.75" being the minimum, you will find it may pick up a front wheel when turning, and the 100 is very prone to hammering the shock, and OME tend to tear the bottom eye off, and/or pull the nut through the washer on the top, and when there is no limiter for the front suspension once the shock does as described, it over extends the ball joint and snaps it off, making the front wheel become detatched from the vehicle.
2.75" is the ABSOLUTE MIMIMUM you should run of droop.
Bearing in mind these measurements are with 16" rims, so you will need to add 1/2" for every inch bigger than 16" on rims.
- Thread starter
- #29
Also, my tires are rubbing. Anyone know a suppier for wheel spacers for the 100 series? 3/4" with lugs would be great. This is at full turn and it is in the rear of the front wheelwell.
- Thread starter
- #30
There is about 1/4" of clearance at the top....
wngrog said:
It helps keep the dirt and mud off
And it may make a nice template for something beefier.
wngrog said:
Are you running stock wheels? odd that you rub and I don't. You can adjust the stops on the A arms I believe. I think Schotts has adjusted his..
wngrog said:
I think 1" (possibly 7/8") is the thinnest wheel spacer you can use, assuming you are using stock/OEM wheels without grinding the studs down. Hoser has a contact for 100 series spacers as well as Christo...
I added spacers in front to create more clearance for recovery chains and also to push the front wheel track back out after the lift.
hoser
SILVER Star
wngrog's tires are 13.50" wide which are over an inch wider than 315's.bull said:
3/4" wheel adapters (spacer) MIGHT work (I'm interested to know) though I wonder if strength is an issue with that size. i.e. lugs pulling out?
I'd need to dig up the vendor I used for the wheel adapters but there are many of them online. Maybe try www.wheelspacer.com
Here are the specs you need:
5x150
110mm Bore on vehicle (so wheel adapter bore might be 110.5mm or so)
14mm x 1.5 studs
Expect these wheel adapters to cost more ones for other vehicles because of the larger 5x150 bolt pattern.
- Thread starter
- #35
hoser said:
Shot them an email.
These tires are wide and look great on the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #36
OK, I just did good measurements....here is what I have:
On the Driver's side (left for you aussies), I have 2.3" of droop and on the passenger side I have a little less than 2". The measurement from the fender to the bottom of my 18" wheel is 31.5" That is 1" over recommended on the 16" wheels which makes it right. According to the info above my static ride height is right, but the droop is off.
First, that means I have to lower the front even more
I don't like this ass-high look and am gonna like it even less with the front lower.
Second, why would one side drop out 1/2" more than the other?
Here is the info I learned while installing this OME setup: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=85938
On the Driver's side (left for you aussies), I have 2.3" of droop and on the passenger side I have a little less than 2". The measurement from the fender to the bottom of my 18" wheel is 31.5" That is 1" over recommended on the 16" wheels which makes it right. According to the info above my static ride height is right, but the droop is off.
First, that means I have to lower the front even more
I don't like this ass-high look and am gonna like it even less with the front lower.Second, why would one side drop out 1/2" more than the other?
Here is the info I learned while installing this OME setup: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=85938
Last edited:
wngrog said:OK, I just did good measurements....here is what I have:
On the Driver's side (left for you aussies), I have 2.3" of droop and on the passenger side I have a little less than 2". The measurement from the fender to the bottom of my 18" wheel is 31.5" That is 1" over recommended on the 16" wheels which makes it right. According to the info above my static ride height is right, but the droop is off.
First, that means I have to lower the front even more
Second, why would one side drop out 1/2" more than the other?
I don't know which type of rear bumper and storage box you are going to install ; but the rear ride height will be perfect with the 863's
if you are installing the Slee rear bumper with tire carrier and also the African Outback drawers and filling them up with recovery gear...from my experience
Nolen,
Can I have the "door" that goes over the oil drain plug on the skid plate if you leave it off? And the bolts for it also if that isn't asking too much?
Can I have the "door" that goes over the oil drain plug on the skid plate if you leave it off? And the bolts for it also if that isn't asking too much?
- Thread starter
- #39
Josh83 said:
No sweat, PM me your address.
Spressomon, I just loaded my drawers ( :laughing: ) and it came down 1/2"
My Slee bumper is without tire carrier, so I will add a little more. It looks fine....
Off in another direction: I have found the OME rear 101 shocks, with Slee bumper, AO drawers and all the gear in the drawers, fridge, etc. are 'overtaxed': It would be nice if someone could source a heavier duty shock (Billi/Koni) to match rigs equipped like ours (Christo: Are you listening?) in a longer version. Even if we have to do the eye mod for the 100 rear top shock mounts to get'er done!
