Tips and Tricks to Installing the Old Man EMU and Slee Drop Kit

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wngrog

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I just got finished installing my OME lift and Slee Drop kit.

There are a few things that made me scratch my head even after reading all of the information on the web and the awesome writups like those from Bull, complete with pictures.

Bull's Writup: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=81078

I figured I would try to share all of the tricks I got from Christo and Ben and also those I just figured out on my own......

My first step was the Diff Drop Kit from www.sleeoffroad.com

I read that it was a 1.5 :banana: job and so I tackled it first. Christo provides excellent photo instructions of the install, but there was one thing that hung me up.

The kit includes one new bolt for the attachment of the rear of the differential. It was a little unclear to which end this bolt went in the instructions, so the thing to remember is that the new bolt (provided in the kit) goes in the rear location and you MOVE the rear bolt and use it in the front mount location. Discard the old OEM bolt removed from the front.

Other than that, the drop kit is a piece of cake.

On to the Torsion Bars.

I made a post here because I was confused: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=85398

The instructions that come with the OME torsion bars are pretty good, and now that I have done it, they make a lot of sense.

Basically, you need to unscrew the tensioner off the rear of the torsion bar until it is just hanging in the bracket. Take the measurent from bottom of the tension arm to the bottom of the frame bracket that encases the tension arm.

That is the point that you want to start with when you reinstall the tension arm on the new torsion bars.

Also, I found that if I marked the splines directly across from one another on the OME torsion bars with a chalk line, the tension arm should be reinstalled 4 splines off counter clockwise on the driver's side and clockwise on the passenger side.

If you mark these splines well on the torsion bar, it makes it much easier to line up once you get the torsion bar up in the vehicle.

Now that I know how to do a torsion bar setup, it is SUPER easy and would take less than one hour to do.

Front shocks are a piece of cake since the top bolts are so easy to get to.

Miving to the rear. Again, super easy except for the shocks.

On the rear, Bull unbolted a bunch of stuff to make his setup work, I used the method I have used over the years on 80 series coil springs.

I unbolted the lower rear shock mount and the sway bar and put a bottle jack on the lower control arm with the top on the sway bar bracket.

A couple of pumps on the handle and the old spring popped out and one more pump and the 863's popped right in. Basically 2 bolts per side. 5 minute job.

The main beating is the top bolt on the rear shock. The only way I could get it was to put the wrench on the top bolt and use channel locks and a pipe wrench to spin the top of the shock body. This destroys the old shock, but it is the only way I could make it work.

OK, those are my tricks.

I spent about 5 hours total on this install and could do it again in about 2. It is super easy like an 80 series, just different with the torsion bars and drop kit.

Hope this helps and please feel free to add your tips to this thread and maybe we can get it posted to the FAQ.
 
wngrog said:
I just got finished installing my OME lift and Slee Drop kit.

There are a few things that made me scratch my head even after reading all of the information on the web and the awesome writups like those from Bull, complete with pictures.

Bull's Writup: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=81078

I figured I would try to share all of the tricks I got from Christo and Ben and also those I just figured out on my own......

My first step was the Diff Drop Kit from www.sleeoffroad.com

I read that it was a 1.5 :banana: job and so I tackled it first. Christo provides excellent photo instructions of the install, but there was one thing that hung me up.

The kit includes one new bolt for the attachment of the rear of the differential. It was a little unclear to which end this bolt went in the instructions, so the thing to remember is that the new bolt (provided in the kit) goes in the rear location and you MOVE the rear bolt and use it in the front mount location. Discard the old OEM bolt removed from the front.

Other than that, the drop kit is a piece of cake.

On to the Torsion Bars.

I made a post here because I was confused: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=85398

The instructions that come with the OME torsion bars are pretty good, and now that I have done it, they make a lot of sense.

Basically, you need to unscrew the tensioner off the rear of the torsion bar until it is just hanging in the bracket. Take the measurent from bottom of the tension arm to the bottom of the frame bracket that encases the tension arm.

That is the point that you want to start with when you reinstall the tension arm on the new torsion bars.

Also, I found that if I marked the splines directly across from one another on the OME torsion bars with a chalk line, the tension arm should be reinstalled 4 splines off counter clockwise on the driver's side and clockwise on the passenger side.

If you mark these splines well on the torsion bar, it makes it much easier to line up once you get the torsion bar up in the vehicle.

Now that I know how to do a torsion bar setup, it is SUPER easy and would take less than one hour to do.

Front shocks are a piece of cake since the top bolts are so easy to get to.

Miving to the rear. Again, super easy except for the shocks.

On the rear, Bull unbolted a bunch of stuff to make his setup work, I used the method I have used over the years on 80 series coil springs.

I unbolted the lower rear shock mount and the sway bar and put a bottle jack on the lower control arm with the top on the sway bar bracket.

A couple of pumps on the handle and the old spring popped out and one more pump and the 863's popped right in. Basically 2 bolts per side. 5 minute job.

The main beating is the top bolt on the rear shock. The only way I could get it was to put the wrench on the top bolt and use channel locks and a pipe wrench to spin the top of the shock body. This destroys the old shock, but it is the only way I could make it work.

OK, those are my tricks.

I spent about 5 hours total on this install and could do it again in about 2. It is super easy like an 80 series, just different with the torsion bars and drop kit.

Hope this helps and please feel free to add your tips to this thread and maybe we can get it posted to the FAQ.



Hopefully you installed a 10mm spring packer along with the shorter 863.
 
spressomon said:
Hopefully you installed a 10mm spring packer along with the shorter 863.

I did. Still 1/4" higher on the side without the packer.....

It is very hard to tell which spring was longer to me.
 
wngrog said:
On the rear, Bull unbolted a bunch of stuff to make his setup work, I used the method I have used over the years on 80 series coil springs.

I unbolted the lower rear shock mount and the sway bar and put a bottle jack on the lower control arm with the top on the sway bar bracket.

A couple of pumps on the handle and the old spring popped out and one more pump and the 863's popped right in. Basically 2 bolts per side. 5 minute job.

Great Write Up!

Where were you a couple weeks ago with this tidbit..You fawker :flipoff2:

Makes complete sense and I will be doing this week so I can add my 10mm packer.
 
Do you have to remove the rear wheels to change out the springs? Also, any pictures on where the bottle jack goes. I am ready to install my rear springs.

Thanks,

uzj100
 
Do you have to remove the rear wheels to change out the springs? Also, any pictures on where the bottle jack goes. I am ready to install my rear springs.

Thanks,

uzj100
I guess technically you wouldn't have to take the tires off, but I would for room to work. Bottle jack (if you use one) goes between the axle and the frame, to expand the distance between the two so you can slip the spring in. Alternatively, I undid my sway bar and stood on the hub, pressing down, while someone else slipped in the spring. Spring goes in easiest top first and then pry the bottom onto the mount.
 
I don't know what my guy uses tool-wise...but he can swap rear springs and shocks in something like 15-minutes. ??? He does or uses something that makes it very easy. Old shocks come off osuable again as well. ???
 
I have just never done this before. It looks pretty straight forward. I am just replacing rear springs and cranking up the t-bars a bit. I hope to get this done on Sunday the 23rd.
 
x2 on the springs and cranking up the torsion bars. Hope it turns out good and not ending up with a lean after a few weeks of driving
 

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