Shane, is it true you have an 89 Galant with mirrored tint on three of the side windows and 130 performance stickers on it? If so, Does it have the 4 inch diameter exhaust tip?
2000UZJ's big HID thread - what, where and how
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I have multiple personalities and my friend says they are white with NO blue. So
Plus the bottom right says USE ONLY AS A GUIDE TO ARGUE ON THE NET.
Wow!!!! I thought I was the only one with those friends......
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- #183
Shane, is it true you have an 89 Galant with mirrored tint on three of the side windows and 130 performance stickers on it? If so, Does it have the 4 inch diameter exhaust tip?
I wonder if his new body kit is holding up too
Some spy shots of the exhaust
5K has a hint of blue
Like a dumbass I just fired up the 100 and walked around and stuffed my face into the beam, I think I burned my my eye!!!!
SO if i stare into the light I see the bulb it self alone has a blue tint, but the light cast is white. The housing is not blue, the reflection is not blue, but I take a picture and the camera on my phone auto corrects and it has a blue tint on the screen, not with my naked eye.
So I do know what to say. Sorry, what was the topic again?
Shane, is it true you have an 89 Galant with mirrored tint on three of the side windows and 130 performance stickers on it? If so, Does it have the 4 inch diameter exhaust tip?
No, I have the Folgers can edition.,
- Thread starter
- #185
I have done that.... "hey, i wonder how bright these are?"..." OH MY GOD, I CAN'T !!!WHAAAAMMM!!! OH GOD A WALL"
My camera auto adjusts the color... makes it look pretty blue as well. I wouldn't think 1K in the kelvin scale would make a light bulb white or blue. It's not a huge difference, both our kits look blue in the photos. Mines white, yours is white, they are both bright and that is all
You have no idea how funny it was watching you do that
Resident "don't ask Don't tell"
That's cool
so the ddm ones are cheaper at 30+shipping then 8.99+29.99 shipping id go with the ddm over the ghetto ebay ones.
Ghetto? Why the hate yo?
Get the DDM ones fo sho
I had to drive 40 miles of freeway tonight and glad that I twisted them down a tad last night. I had no issues with anyone with the low and driving ones on.
Good luck to all those who don't have HID's but had lots to say.
I found these brackets to hold the ballast:
NEW XENON HID BALLAST MOUNTING BRACKET/ HOLDER / MOUNT : eBay Motors (item 290405008417 end time Mar-21-10 19:49:03 PDT)
At that price I ordered a pair. I will let you guy know what I think about the fit when they come in.
cheers.
NEW XENON HID BALLAST MOUNTING BRACKET/ HOLDER / MOUNT : eBay Motors (item 290405008417 end time Mar-21-10 19:49:03 PDT)
At that price I ordered a pair. I will let you guy know what I think about the fit when they come in.
cheers.
If by any chance those brackets don't work, I borrowed this pic from hoser to show how his ballast is mounted. I chose the same place for both sides and never had any problems, just 1 screw to hold the ballast in place.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Plus, DDM has a US store front, so warranty issues (which I imagine with a $30 Chinese part will happen), should be easier.
If by any chance those brackets don't work, I borrowed this pic from hoser to show how his ballast is mounted. I chose the same place for both sides and never had any problems, just 1 screw to hold the ballast in place.
That is where I put my low beams, then I piggy backed them and found out the hard way that the turn signal would not fit.
The are likely to fail, but $30 and life time warranty, id say they are worth the chance. Plus alot of people on other random forums have had good experiences with them so.....
Good news & bad news 55W install
So I received my 55W H1 bulbs with the "regular" ballast from DDM, and as with many, I too did not receive the wiring harness because of the back order--should have it sometime next week.
So being the impatient one that I am, I thought what the heck let's just install them anyhow. The good news and bad news:
Bad news:
1) It took me almost six hours to get the install done. Most of time was spent on trying to figure out how and where to mount the ballasts.
2) As others know, the ballasts don't really have any built-in mounting points to them, which made the mounting of them securely a real headache. My kit came with double sided tape, but given the reactions I've seen to this approach on the web, I was very hesitant to use just the tape for attachment. I eventually ended up mounting them in the same location as Hoser and others (i.e., behind the marker lights, inside the fenders.) I used the double sided tape, and then some zip ties to give more security. Assuming that the zip ties don't break, I think it should hold pretty well. Time will tell.
3) Taking out the side marker lights (turn signals in LC), is a pain in the neck. I read others' experiences with this, and despite my best efforts to learn from these, I still found it an unpleasant experience. Not only did it take 45 min for me to get this done, but I also broke one of the attachement points (the plastic bracket that the screw goes through) in the process.
I superglued it back, and am hoping that it will hold. Time will tell.
Good news:
1) The 55W kit fired up right away, and seems to be working without any problems so far WITHOUT the wiring harness. I've driven around a bit and played around in the garage (20 min or so, so nothing extensive) and have found no problems so far. I'm going to hold-off on installing the wiring harness for now, unless any problems surface. I was surprised by this outcome, given I've read folks having trouble with getting just the 35W kit working without the harness.
2) These things are very bright--not a surprise
(bad news part 2):
1) the little "boxes" of light (on top of the beam pattern cut-off) that allow for lights to light up street signs, etc. (at least that's what I thougth they were for) are now very bright. Where as before I would not really notice them unless I was pulling into my garage, now I can clearly see them lighting up all kinds of stuff up in the air as I drive around (trees, houses, etc.) I'll have to keep an eye on them to make sure that I'm not blinding any innocent by standards or drivers.
Any thoughts on how to "close" these "boxes"? I think I saw something about taking the entire housing apart, which seemed quite extreme. Is everyone else just letting them be (not sure if this is LX specific issue)?
So I received my 55W H1 bulbs with the "regular" ballast from DDM, and as with many, I too did not receive the wiring harness because of the back order--should have it sometime next week.
So being the impatient one that I am, I thought what the heck let's just install them anyhow. The good news and bad news:
Bad news:
1) It took me almost six hours to get the install done. Most of time was spent on trying to figure out how and where to mount the ballasts.
2) As others know, the ballasts don't really have any built-in mounting points to them, which made the mounting of them securely a real headache. My kit came with double sided tape, but given the reactions I've seen to this approach on the web, I was very hesitant to use just the tape for attachment. I eventually ended up mounting them in the same location as Hoser and others (i.e., behind the marker lights, inside the fenders.) I used the double sided tape, and then some zip ties to give more security. Assuming that the zip ties don't break, I think it should hold pretty well. Time will tell.
3) Taking out the side marker lights (turn signals in LC), is a pain in the neck. I read others' experiences with this, and despite my best efforts to learn from these, I still found it an unpleasant experience. Not only did it take 45 min for me to get this done, but I also broke one of the attachement points (the plastic bracket that the screw goes through) in the process.
I superglued it back, and am hoping that it will hold. Time will tell.Good news:
1) The 55W kit fired up right away, and seems to be working without any problems so far WITHOUT the wiring harness. I've driven around a bit and played around in the garage (20 min or so, so nothing extensive) and have found no problems so far. I'm going to hold-off on installing the wiring harness for now, unless any problems surface. I was surprised by this outcome, given I've read folks having trouble with getting just the 35W kit working without the harness.
2) These things are very bright--not a surprise
(bad news part 2):
1) the little "boxes" of light (on top of the beam pattern cut-off) that allow for lights to light up street signs, etc. (at least that's what I thougth they were for) are now very bright. Where as before I would not really notice them unless I was pulling into my garage, now I can clearly see them lighting up all kinds of stuff up in the air as I drive around (trees, houses, etc.) I'll have to keep an eye on them to make sure that I'm not blinding any innocent by standards or drivers.
Any thoughts on how to "close" these "boxes"? I think I saw something about taking the entire housing apart, which seemed quite extreme. Is everyone else just letting them be (not sure if this is LX specific issue)?
This thread outlines how to fix the blobs of light......there aren't any pics, but it seems pretty simple nonetheless.
HID Installed in 04 LX470 - Club Lexus Forums
HID Installed in 04 LX470 - Club Lexus Forums
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double sided tape won't hold for too long, i've tried and they just end up falling. im surprised the balllasts dont have a screwhole for you to bolt onto the inner fender wall.
Agreed on the double sided, which is why I used that zip ties in addition. Also, agreed that I think they really SHOULD have some better way to easily mount them securely.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
I would really suggest using the harness. The HID system is drawing much higher amperage than the stock lights. It also adds a fuse into the system that can protect your OEM wiring.
My understanding is that in steady state, the current pull is the same with these and the OEM headlights. And I take your point that in start-up mode the current can spike to near double that (according to the specifications on the ballast itself.) This would still leave the current draw of these lights well below 10 amps, which is where I believe some of the lower circuits breakers in the system might be spec'd at. My reasoning goes that the system must have fuses/breakers to handled short-circuits in various parts of the system (which would draw far more than 10 amps), then these same fuses would be the first to blow if the ballasts were causing harm.
That said, it would make me too more comfortable to have the harness, and I may end up going that route. Out of curiosity, has anyone heard of a 100 having any electrical problems that could be traced to the ballasts of 35W or 55W (not in theory, but in practice)?
