2000UZJ's big HID thread - what, where and how
- Thread starter 2000UZJ
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2X on Shane's question. (sorry about the Galant comment Shane
)
Also, Am I correct in assumeing that a 2000 LC does not have the blobs of light problem? Is that problem only for the projector style headlights?
) Also, Am I correct in assumeing that a 2000 LC does not have the blobs of light problem? Is that problem only for the projector style headlights?
I BELIEVE (I'm not a headlights expert at all) what trunk monkey is saying is that the HID harness has a fuse built in to protect the stock LC wires. The HID lights draw a much bigger current than halogens, especially at startup, and that extra current could damage the stock wires. The harness wires are rated to take the amperage the HID's require, and have the added safety of a fuse. Without the harness, the OE wires could get very hot and melt.
Am i right?
In this specific scenario, I would be more worried about headlights not "firing up" than "melted wires".
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
A high amperage draw on a system that's not designed for it can cause all kinds of problems, from simple fuses to fires. It's just like installing high wattage fog lights with thin wires. I don't remember the exact numbers of the OEM system or the HID system, 2000 posted them earlier, but it was like 2-3x more of an amperage draw than OEM.
A relay is like a switch that draws low power put can send high power. Without the relay you're making the high power request straight from the low voltage system in a car. In addition to the relay you get a fuse in the harness which acts as a barrier to protect your truck's wiring.
But if they're "firing" and drawing twice the amperage the OEM wires can handle, that heat goes somewhere.
So, in short - relay ensures adequate power, fuse protects system when $30 Chinese HID's blow up.
A relay is like a switch that draws low power put can send high power. Without the relay you're making the high power request straight from the low voltage system in a car. In addition to the relay you get a fuse in the harness which acts as a barrier to protect your truck's wiring.
But if they're "firing" and drawing twice the amperage the OEM wires can handle, that heat goes somewhere.
So, in short - relay ensures adequate power, fuse protects system when $30 Chinese HID's blow up.
The relay/harness is a good idea for many reasons most of which trunk pointed out........a stock halogen draws roughly 3-4 amps.....HID at start up draws about 7 or 8 amps and 4-5 continuous.........basically at anytime a 55W ballast is drawing more amps than a stock halogen would. Will this cause a failure or fire.....maybe.....maybe not. The point is $20 and an hour of your time is better than damaging a harness on your $50,000+ Land Cruiser
The two relays that I helped 2000UZJ install draw 0.16amps each, putting a total load of roughly 0.32 amps on the stock harness.......roughly 1/10th the draw of one halogen bulb.
Another thing to remember is that these HID ballasts are digital, so using a relay/harness will provide it with all the power that it needs to ensure maximum performance and longevity.
Sonk76......if you fix the blobs of light on your LX using the method posted earlier, can you post some pictures of the process??
Where are you guys getting your specs?
I pulled the follow spec off the DDM site
35w kit Start up 6.0A Running 3.2A
55w kit Start up 5.0A Running 4.1
The factory lamp is 55w rated @ 12volts - 55w/12volt = 4.58A
As per DDM specs the 35w kit pulls more then the 55w kit
Based on DDM specs I dont see any problem running either kit on the factory harness.
EDIT: Factory Low beam lamp 51w/12v = 4.25A Factory fused @ 10A each
Factory High beam lamp 60w/12v = 5.0A Factory fused @ 20A each
I pulled the follow spec off the DDM site
35w kit Start up 6.0A Running 3.2A
55w kit Start up 5.0A Running 4.1
The factory lamp is 55w rated @ 12volts - 55w/12volt = 4.58A
As per DDM specs the 35w kit pulls more then the 55w kit
Based on DDM specs I dont see any problem running either kit on the factory harness.
EDIT: Factory Low beam lamp 51w/12v = 4.25A Factory fused @ 10A each
Factory High beam lamp 60w/12v = 5.0A Factory fused @ 20A each
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Hey You 100 guys, I have a few 55w brackets left over from my FJ62/FJ60/FJ40 HID kits Iam selling. If any one needs on, I'll drop it in the mail to you for free. 
Just shoot me a PM.
I can tell you that the US Customs just held up several shipments of HID lighting kits. The are 100% illegal to sell in the USA - not like anyone enforces that. So if you are waiting for back ordered kits, it could be a little bit longer.
-Mark
Just shoot me a PM. I can tell you that the US Customs just held up several shipments of HID lighting kits. The are 100% illegal to sell in the USA - not like anyone enforces that. So if you are waiting for back ordered kits, it could be a little bit longer.
-Mark
I tend to agree with this conclusion.
Did a little testing on the factory harness on my '06 LC
Battery voltage without running head lights on low 12.13v
Low beam headlight socket voltage without running 12.09v
Engine running head lights on low beam
Battery voltage 13.89v
Socket voltage no load 13.80v
Socket voltage 50w load 13.37v
Socket voltage 75w load 13.10v
Socket voltage 100w load 12.97v
Factory fused @ 10A low beam
Factory fused @ 20A High beam
Wiring for high and low appears to be same gauge
Battery voltage without running head lights on low 12.13v
Low beam headlight socket voltage without running 12.09v
Engine running head lights on low beam
Battery voltage 13.89v
Socket voltage no load 13.80v
Socket voltage 50w load 13.37v
Socket voltage 75w load 13.10v
Socket voltage 100w load 12.97v
Factory fused @ 10A low beam
Factory fused @ 20A High beam
Wiring for high and low appears to be same gauge
- Thread starter
- #213
Did a little testing on the factory harness on my '06 LC
Battery voltage without running head lights on low 12.13v
Low beam headlight socket voltage without running 12.09v
Engine running head lights on low beam
Battery voltage 13.89v
Socket voltage no load 13.80v
Socket voltage 50w load 13.37v
Socket voltage 75w load 13.10v
Socket voltage 100w load 12.97v
Factory fused @ 10A low beam
Factory fused @ 20A High beam
Wiring for high and low appears to be same gauge
Thanks for doing a little testing. cleared up a lot about the stock harness on the 100.
Does this mean we need the harness or we do not need the harness? I would like to order some but not really sure what to order.
- Thread starter
- #215
I'd order a relay kit regardless of the wattage. Just to be safe and keep your factory harness and everything safe from a surge. You maybe be fine without it...but what if something blows and shorts out? What's damaged now?
Get the 55w and relay kit
Anthony.L
Looking for the end of the road...
Ditto. The relay wiring harness kit is a good idea regardless of what lighting kit you use. Especially considering the low cost ($10 shipped) it's more then worth the effort.
The OEM fuse blows? If Mr T did his homework and used the correct fuse to protect the headlight wires, what's the worry?
Anthony.L
Looking for the end of the road...
There is a link to one on eBay for around $6 plus shipping, look back a couple pages. I ordered some ballast brackets from the same eBay seller, like $4 shipped for two. I would have ordered the harness, but I really want to custom make one the correct length for my exact install.
Again I am an electrical idiot, with that said are those kits per bulb or pair?
ie, will I need 3 or 6 of them?
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