2000UZJ's big HID thread - what, where and how

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i think my passenger side HID is not firing all of the time (takes a few tries to get it to fire), could this be a loose connection or a bad ballast?
 
question - when installing the hid kit, is everyone leaving the housing stock? or does the reflector that the bulb slids into get removed?
 
question - when installing the hid kit, is everyone leaving the housing stock? or does the reflector that the bulb slids into get removed?

Nothing in the housing gets touched. Leave everything as it is and take a few laps around the neighborhood. If you get flashed, them aim them down a bit.

I didn't have to aim or modify anything with the housing.
 
Nothing in the housing gets touched. Leave everything as it is and take a few laps around the neighborhood. If you get flashed, them aim them down a bit.

I didn't have to aim or modify anything with the housing.

I was just curious..my HID have been installed for a few weeks now with no issues... I noticed the light output was not as strong as in my Audi..I guess that due to the Audi having projector style headlights.
 
Your Audi has projectors designed for HID's. It controls and disperses the light much better than the reflectors on your 100, which were designed for halogens. Halogens are completely different from xenon bulbs. It produces light at a different location than halogen bulbs, so your reflectors are not designed to take full advantage of the light and is actually scattering a lot of it. That's why the lights on your Audi seem brighter. Plus the fact that your Audi has projectors, which is more effective than reflectors.
 
I was just curious..my HID have been installed for a few weeks now with no issues... I noticed the light output was not as strong as in my Audi..I guess that due to the Audi having projector style headlights.

I have recently installed the 55W 4500 kit as well, and while there is a clear difference (for the better) in my before and after test shots, in actual usage I'm not noticing as much difference as I thought I would. My reference point are the HIDs from my former BMW, but since that's been a while it could just be my bad memory.

I suspect that lights are much "cooler" (higher kelvin) than my prior lights and as such their lighting effectiveness may not be as good. If I were to do this again, I'd go with the 3,000 kelvin lights.

All that said, I'm still very happy with the purchase, especially given the price--now just waiting for my new brackets to come in so that I can replace my zip-tie/double-sided tape solution.
 
I have recently installed the 55W 4500 kit as well, and while there is a clear difference (for the better) in my before and after test shots, in actual usage I'm not noticing as much difference as I thought I would. My reference point are the HIDs from my former BMW, but since that's been a while it could just be my bad memory.

I suspect that lights are much "cooler" (higher kelvin) than my prior lights and as such their lighting effectiveness may not be as good. If I were to do this again, I'd go with the 3,000 kelvin lights.

All that said, I'm still very happy with the purchase, especially given the price--now just waiting for my new brackets to come in so that I can replace my zip-tie/double-sided tape solution.

can you take some pictures similar to mine so we can compare the cut-off (10ft,20ft,50 and 100)? Do you have the blobs of light like others?
 
i think my passenger side HID is not firing all of the time (takes a few tries to get it to fire), could this be a loose connection or a bad ballast?

Swap the bulbs from side to side, if the issue follows the bulb, then replace the bulb, if it continues to happen on the same side, then I would suspect a ballast or wiring issue.
 
Your Audi has projectors designed for HID's. It controls and disperses the light much better than the reflectors on your 100, which were designed for halogens. Halogens are completely different from xenon bulbs. It produces light at a different location than halogen bulbs, so your reflectors are not designed to take full advantage of the light and is actually scattering a lot of it. That's why the lights on your Audi seem brighter. Plus the fact that your Audi has projectors, which is more effective than reflectors.

Sounds like I need to find some donor LC and Audi headlights and see if I can do a projector mod in to the stock lc housing...
 
Sounds like I need to find some donor LC and Audi headlights and see if I can do a projector mod in to the stock lc housing...

Do a search, someone already did it with Lexus projectors. The results are spectacular!!! You can get a idea of the size of the job by checking the pics in that thread.

P.S. Karma is a bitch and if you put Audi parts in your LC it will not like it! :D
 
Thanks Trunk Monkey, that's what I wanted to know (cutting the adapter harness). I know you don't need to cut the factory harness wires. I got the kit from DDM but my included instructions weren't anything like the pdf on the ddm site. The pdf from the site is much clearer.

Just to reiterate this..... I started getting ready to install mine today and the included instructions were horrible! I downloaded the instructions from DDM's website and they are very clear and a no brainer.... Throw the ones away that come with the kit and get the instructions off the website.... Now off to do the install and then adjust the beams when it gets dark tonight.
 
Ok I cant for the life of me figure out the correct way o adjust my headlights. I pulled out the FSM for my 2000 LC and it talks about a vertical and horz. adjustment. Here is the back of my light. can any one help me out here? I want to make sure I can adjust these things correctly before I install my kit. Right now my drivers side is aimed way high and all over the place.....

2j69rfo.jpg
 
I was the dumb ass that used a 7 or 8mm wrench on the screw, then my smart ass Mazda tech sais use a screw driver.....I was baffled and to him to go work on Mazda's . See the lower right has the "V' abover the screw, stick a #2 long phillips down in there and twist. I ran mine down 1" at 10' .

Pop the cap off the other one on the left top corner.
 
I have recently installed the 55W 4500 kit as well, and while there is a clear difference (for the better) in my before and after test shots, in actual usage I'm not noticing as much difference as I thought I would. My reference point are the HIDs from my former BMW, but since that's been a while it could just be my bad memory.

I suspect that lights are much "cooler" (higher kelvin) than my prior lights and as such their lighting effectiveness may not be as good. If I were to do this again, I'd go with the 3,000 kelvin lights.

All that said, I'm still very happy with the purchase, especially given the price--now just waiting for my new brackets to come in so that I can replace my zip-tie/double-sided tape solution.

Don't go for 3000k lights. They're really yellow and actually aren't the ideal point on the kelvin scale. Go for DDM's 4500k lights if you want the most light output. Light perception peaks around 4100-4300k, which is why OEM phillips bulbs are made with a kelvin scale of 4100k. Below that range, the light output begins to taper off again.
 

Link doesnt work.

I was the dumb ass that used a 7 or 8mm wrench on the screw, then my smart ass Mazda tech sais use a screw driver.....I was baffled and to him to go work on Mazda's . See the lower right has the "V' abover the screw, stick a #2 long phillips down in there and twist. I ran mine down 1" at 10' .

Pop the cap off the other one on the left top corner.
Thanks AATALAS1X! But I am not quite following your post. Can you dumb it down for me?:confused:
 
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