Hello, all.
Last week, I totaled my 2000 LX. Devastating. I have very little time to find a replacement, which of course is adding extra stress. Looking for another 2000 with less than 200k miles, and with solid records in Missouri or surrounding area. Obviously not an easy find. It took me three months to find the beauty I just wrecked.
Anyhow, I thought I'd found the one yesterday (and only a two minute drive from my house in STL city). Beautiful black mamba. I went back today for another test drive and a closer look. Right before I was gonna talk numbers, I noticed that the cladding on the tail gate, just below the liscense plate cove, had separated just a bit from the body. I knew that meant water, and rust. When I poked and peered in, it was just super crunch town, and my heart sank. When you grab/squeeze the bottom of the gate in that area, you just hear and feel the grind, with small flakes dropping out the bottom (pics attached).
They're asking $9,995, reduced and moved from their main lot after 20+ days. It has 127k miles, and the timing belt, transmission fluid, and some other were items hit at 93k. Has a couple other small rust spots, some minor scratches, some carpet stains, and a clear coat spot on the hood that will start peeling, and some lights issues. When I turn engine over, all lights pop up as they should except for the diff lock light, and the diff lock light doesn't come on when I engaged it, though I hear the click on/off and it feels engaged (maybe a light or fuse?). Aside from those, my concern is the gate rust. Prior to finding this rust in the gate, I had planned on negotiating. When I showed them this issue, they took the NBD "just seal it" approach, of course. In my mind, this is a major compromise. I've just started looking into this issue, and have searched for and read several threads, but I'm needing more input.
Is this a deal breaker? Is it a possible bargaining chip with a replacement gate plus paint match in the near future? How tough are they to find? Is a cheap fix truly possible?
Thanks for the time,
TM
Last week, I totaled my 2000 LX. Devastating. I have very little time to find a replacement, which of course is adding extra stress. Looking for another 2000 with less than 200k miles, and with solid records in Missouri or surrounding area. Obviously not an easy find. It took me three months to find the beauty I just wrecked.
Anyhow, I thought I'd found the one yesterday (and only a two minute drive from my house in STL city). Beautiful black mamba. I went back today for another test drive and a closer look. Right before I was gonna talk numbers, I noticed that the cladding on the tail gate, just below the liscense plate cove, had separated just a bit from the body. I knew that meant water, and rust. When I poked and peered in, it was just super crunch town, and my heart sank. When you grab/squeeze the bottom of the gate in that area, you just hear and feel the grind, with small flakes dropping out the bottom (pics attached).
They're asking $9,995, reduced and moved from their main lot after 20+ days. It has 127k miles, and the timing belt, transmission fluid, and some other were items hit at 93k. Has a couple other small rust spots, some minor scratches, some carpet stains, and a clear coat spot on the hood that will start peeling, and some lights issues. When I turn engine over, all lights pop up as they should except for the diff lock light, and the diff lock light doesn't come on when I engaged it, though I hear the click on/off and it feels engaged (maybe a light or fuse?). Aside from those, my concern is the gate rust. Prior to finding this rust in the gate, I had planned on negotiating. When I showed them this issue, they took the NBD "just seal it" approach, of course. In my mind, this is a major compromise. I've just started looking into this issue, and have searched for and read several threads, but I'm needing more input.
Is this a deal breaker? Is it a possible bargaining chip with a replacement gate plus paint match in the near future? How tough are they to find? Is a cheap fix truly possible?
Thanks for the time,
TM
Last edited: