2000 LC Purchase question (1 Viewer)

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Hi all,

I am new to the forums here. I am looking into purchasing a 2000 Land cruiser with 225k miles for $12,500, its a clean cruiser. I had a few questions the ABS is out, is that something i should be concerned about or should i get that fixed? I got a quote from a dealership for around $1,400 for the abs modulator. I greatly appreciate the feedback .

Thank you!
 
For that price, the seller should fix it. A new booster assembly is $2500-3000, without including labor for install. Deduct accordingly and don’t pay over $10k if seller won’t fix it.
 
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For that price, the seller should fix it. A new booster assembly is $2500-3000, without including labor for install. Deduct accordingly and don’t pay over $10k if seller won’t fix it.
I got quoted $1,400 parts and labor, friend works at a toyota store getting me employee pricing. Is this something i should fix or am i fine driving like this? I have been looking for a cruiser for about 5 months , it has 0 rust interior is very clean, i have been seeing same miles year going for 4-6k more.

Thanks for the response
 
@JunkCrzr89 is trying to tell you that an ABS issue can run the gamut from being a wheel sensor to having to replace the entire brake booster assembly. So make SURE the diagnosis is correct. If you have to replace the entire booster it won't be $1400.00 parts and labor I can assure you. So just make sure the dealership that 'made the call' is right (often they are not).
 
Agreed--if this is as simple as a wheel sensor, then no big deal, but "ABS is out" can mean a lot of different things...
 
I know it’s a well known issue on the 100’s. Is it still a great buy at that price, it’s pretty darn clean besides that? I’ve been watching the market and same year/miles has been around $16,000-$19,000.

Thank you guys.
 
I know it’s a well known issue on the 100’s. Is it still a great buy at that price, it’s pretty darn clean besides that? I’ve been watching the market and same year/miles has been around $16,000-$19,000.

Thank you guys.
Regardless of it being a known issue, it is still a truck suffering from something and the price should reflect that. Why is the owner selling the truck? If it was an easy fix they would like just do it and sell the truck with no issues. I would bet they have gotten frustrated trying to fix it and just want to offload it on someone else, but that is just my guess. When I purchased mine with an ongoing issue the purchase price was negotiated down from the original asking by $1,500 to reflect that.
 
I know the market is high right now, but I have 2.75 clean early 100s and there is no way that they should be worth16k. Shoot, for 16k, I'd sell you my wife's very clean LX and deliver it.
 
Regardless of it being a known issue, it is still a truck suffering from something and the price should reflect that. Why is the owner selling the truck? If it was an easy fix they would like just do it and sell the truck with no issues. I would bet they have gotten frustrated trying to fix it and just want to offload it on someone else, but that is just my guess. When I purchased mine with an ongoing issue the purchase price was negotiated down from the original asking by $1,500 to reflect that.
💯
 
Jesus, this is a terrible time to be buying a LC. Sorry if the seller is here, but these prices are ridiculous, don't fomo in, this too shall pass.
 
I know it’s a well known issue on the 100’s. Is it still a great buy at that price, it’s pretty darn clean besides that? I’ve been watching the market and same year/miles has been around $16,000-$19,000.

Thank you guys.
Known in that it has happened to a few and we know about it, but not known as in "common and should be expected". I don't think it's that common.
 
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I had a tech look at it and said it was the ABS actuator part # 47050-60012. Thoughts? What should I do? Thanks guys
 
I had a tech look at it and said it was the ABS actuator part # 47050-60012. Thoughts? What should I do? Thanks guys
Yeah that’s the $2500 part that I referenced above. Without replacing it, you have NO BRAKES and can NOT drive it. I don’t care how clean the truck is, it ain’t worth $12k with a failed booster assembly.
 
It’s been drivin like this for 3 years. My friend is an employee at Toyota and can get part + labor for $1,400.
 
It’s been drivin like this for 3 years. My friend is an employee at Toyota and can get part + labor for $1,400.
I don’t intend to be a dick about this, but I don’t believe any of that. If it has been driven for 3 years like that, then the problem has been misdiagnosed.
 
I had a tech look at it and said it was the ABS actuator part # 47050-60012. Thoughts? What should I do? Thanks guys

8 out 10 times its the booster pump motor and/or accumulator, however if I were a dealer or independent mechanic I would not touch the brake system without replacing the entire booster assembly, simply for liability reasons (Brake Safety).

The part number you were given is indeed the entire unit. It is not especially difficult to remove and replace...but the brake system needs to flushed and bled afterward. IF you can actually get that done for $1400.00 (parts and labor) then that is the deal of the century and someone really, really likes you.

But it IS most likely the correct fix.
 
I don’t intend to be a dick about this, but I don’t believe any of that. If it has been driven for 3 years like that, then the problem has been misdiagnosed.


Agreed. The system tends to 'warn' before hard failing IF a booster issue....but not for 3 years. 👍
 
8 out 10 times its the booster pump motor and/or accumulator, however if I were a dealer or independent mechanic I would not touch the brake system without replacing the entire booster assembly, simply for liability reasons (Brake Safety).

The part number you were given is indeed the entire unit. It is not especially difficult to remove and replace...but the brake system needs to flushed and bled afterward. IF you can actually get that done for $1400.00 (parts and labor) then that is the deal of the century and someone really, really likes you.

But it IS most likely the correct fix.
Thanks, I had a tech that’s been working for Toyota for 15+ years look at it , he said it was that.
 
Thanks, I had a tech that’s been working for Toyota for 15+ years look at it , he said it was that.

Other than a wheel sensor....replacing the entire booster/ABS will pretty much cover anything else it could be. At the very least it would be nice to start with a fresh braking system because when the booster does go....you have precious little time/opportunities to pull over before you have zero brakes (boosted anyway).

So....if the tech is confident that is the problem....then it is worth negotiating the purchase price a bit more (say another 1K) and see if the seller accepts. Then as long as you are good with the prospects of doing that repair along with some other 'base-lining' then the purchase might well be worth it.

Good luck Sir. Post pics if you purchase.


Flint.
 

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