2000 LC Driver Side Exhaust Manifold

[DuckLN]

I have the new manifold and gasket and am plannin on replacing this weekend. I have used the search function to discover that the passenger side is much less labor intensive than the driver side but my cracked manifold is the driver side.

Does anybody know where a write-up is about this project. I would like to get a good idea what to look out for.

Thanks /Clay

 

[SHAGGY101]

This is for the headers but it is essentially the same thing (look towards the end).

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/347955-group-buy-100-series-headers.html

 

[OregonLC]

I have the new manifold and gasket and am plannin on replacing this weekend. I have used the search function to discover that the passenger side is much less labor intensive than the driver side but my cracked manifold is the driver side.

Does anybody know where a write-up is about this project. I would like to get a good idea what to look out for.

Thanks /Clay

If you're going to that much effort, it might be worth it to go with the DT headers in the link that shaggy posted.

The DS is a bugger! Knowing what I know now, I could probably do it in about 4 hours, but plan on a good solid day. Longer if your stud nuts are frozen. Both spresso and I ended up pulling the steering shaft and jacking the engine about 1-1/2" to get access.

BTW, I have tight leak-free OEM manifolds with 76k on them that I will be posting for sale. If you want them, PM me.

 

[DuckLN]

If you're going to that much effort, it might be worth it to go with the DT headers in the link that shaggy posted.

The DS is a bugger! Knowing what I know now, I could probably do it in about 4 hours, but plan on a good solid day. Longer if your stud nuts are frozen. Both spresso and I ended up pulling the steering shaft and jacking the engine about 1-1/2" to get access.

Thanks for the heads up. Sounds challenging. I have already bot an OEM manifold ($212) and gasket ($15) so im committed to installing those.

I sure wish there was a picture instructional but i can't seem to find one and im gettin a little scared. Anybody else know where one may be?

 

[OregonLC]

I intend to do an DIY instructional post for the DT headers when I get some time. The procedure would be the same for factory headers. The biggest risk is a frozen stud. If you break one you'll probably end up taking it somewhere to get it out. Soak them in PB Blaster for days ahead if there is any risk. I think spresso was fortunate to have the studs back out rather than break, but sounds like he has some better tools that allowed him to rattle them out.

If you can return the OEM headers, for only $350 more you could get both sides done using the upgraded DT headers. Same effort but with improved performance and mileage.

 

[spressomon]

The R&R is fairly straightforward. Before starting your project I'd soak all the header bolts along with the steering shaft coupler and the 3-bolts that hold the exhaust header to the CAT manifold with PB Blaster or even better a homebrew solution of 50/50 acetone and ATF; repeat daily for a few days unless you don't see any rust/corrosion on the exhaust manifold studs/nuts.

Remove the plastic inner fender skirts for better access (both sides).

You will need a good (1/2") impact wrench for this job along with various impact swivels, extensions and a 3/4 length (medium depth) 3/8" drive 14mm socket (got mine from SnapOn) along with 3/8" flex head ratchet, etc. You'll also need to get the front end up on jack stands, front wheels removed and also have a jack and some scrap 2x4/4x4 pieces to be able to raise the engine for the driver's side.

On the driver's side you will want to remove the steering shaft to provide more clearance for R&R. Basically this intermediate shaft connects the upper steering shaft with the rack and pinion via splines at each end. You need to mark, with paint pencil or similar, the lower shaft with the rack & pinion so that you get the shaft back to the same location upon reassembly...in other words indexing the shaft.

Remove the two upper bolts on the coupler along with the bolt at the bottom of the intermediate shaft. Push/slide the steering shaft up (towards the firewall) so that you get the necessary clearance to disconnect the shaft from the rack & pinion box. Remove. Apart of this it would be a good idea to tape the steering wheel in place before you remove the shaft. Not required but it will save you a little messing around with regard to reinstalling and indexing the shaft upon reassembly. The steering wheel locks but it could rotate a little once you remove the intermediate shaft.

Once you have the steering shaft out of the way you will want to remove the two bolts on the driver's side engine mount. With your jack and scrap wood pieces placed across the bell housing raise the engine about 1-1/2" or so.

Remove the 4-10mm (I think there are 4 bolts) bolts that hold the heat shield over the exhaust manifold. Remove the 3-exhaust to CAT flange bolts; remove exhaust header nuts. NOTE: If the exhaust header nuts are corroded you will want to have on hand new studs and nuts. Mine were completely rust frozen so that when I removed them the stud backed out from the head. I had 16 new studs and nuts for reinstall so it wasn't a delay.

Given the condition of my exhaust gaskets and CAT flange gaskets I'd suggest replacing with new while you are at it. Thanks to the folks on the header thread especially OregonLC I was able to get this job done and saved myself about $1500 (that's what my local shop wanted to do this job...just the labor portion!).

That's pretty much it.

Dan

 

[DuckLN]

Dan - what can I say! Thanks so much for writing all that. I will try to follow your instructions step by step. I actually bot the manifold, manifold gasket, and 4 exhaust bolts in case i break a few off.

What else do i need to buy, (other than PB blaster) to properly do this job. Should i go ahead and get the 16 studs and nuts? How about the "cat flange gasket"?

 

[spressomon]

Dan - what can I say! Thanks so much for writing all that. I will try to follow your instructions step by step. I actually bot the manifold, manifold gasket, and 4 exhaust bolts in case i break a few off.

What else do i need to buy, (other than PB blaster) to properly do this job. Should i go ahead and get the 16 studs and nuts? How about the "cat flange gasket"?

Take a peak at the nuts and stud ends that hold the exhaust manifold on to the heads. You should be able to see some of them without removing the heat shields. However the passenger side heat shield comes off without any real issue if need be. If you see any corrosion I'd go ahead and have 16-studs and 16-nuts on hand if you're doing both sides. I'm sure you could return the unused parts if you don't end up needing them. Otherwise if time is not of the essence don't worry about and then just order them as needed.

But from my experience (my rig originally came from Rocherster NY so it has some corrosion issues on most of the bolts/nuts) I'd have all the studs and nuts on hand. So that would be 16 if you are doing both banks/sides. Ditto for the nuts. Both my exhaust manifold gaskets and the CAT flange gaskets were not in very good shape so I replaced all. For the labor involved apart of this project its prudent to replace them especially if they looked like mine did.

You may or may not need, again depending on the level of corrosion on your rig, new CAT flange bolts too...the DT headers came with these bolts.

Dan

 

[OregonLC]

That's a good write up Dan. I have a bunch of pictures, but have not had time to do an official post on it yet.

A few more thoughts: The O2 sensor will also need to come out. For me it was an easy removal, but it's a 22mm so you'll need a larger box/open if you don't have one.

I used anti-seize on the re-assemble in the odd case that it ever needs to come back apart.

You will need to jack the engine as Dan said. Be very careful you don't smash any other accessories. I used a 4x4 block about 12" long on top of a spare floor jack. The block was placed vertically right at the rear of the oil pan. I also removed the 17mm nut on top of the mount to completely free the mount from both the frame and the engine. This was required to get the DT header in, but shouldn't be required for an OEM replacement. When you apply pressure to the engine from below, it will rotate toward the passenger side.

The gasket is about 6 sheets of stamped steel. Because my project was done very slowly over the weekend, I came back on the 2nd day and found the gasket had relaxed and I was able to torque the studs more. I used the 'elbow torque wrench method' which is far less than scientific!

I found removing the dipstick made it easier to access header bolts for cylinder #1. I also forgot to reinstall the dipstick prior to the DT's going on which made that last step a mother bear!

I'm not certain, but I believe you have to remove the front skid plate to get to the box on the steering rack. I pulled both front and mid, but I'm not certain that just mid wouldn't have done it.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[Y-SC]

How did it go, Clay?

 

[DuckLN]

Did not try. Have the parts in the back of the LC though. Headed to ND to duck hunt for a few days and will have to do it in a couple of weeks after i get back.

The local dealer here quoted my $800 labor to do it. FTS.

 

[1loudLX]

couldnt you just go to your local watering hole to duck hunt?

 

[Y-SC]

DuckLN, did you eventually get the driver side manifold replaced?

 

[DuckLN]

Yes i did!

Now i’m searching for guidance on the passenger side.

 

[jaewastooshort]

15 years in suspense

either way, thankful for the write-ups (like above) as I'm about to tackle mine.