2000 Landcruiser stalling after turning headlights on (1 Viewer)

[Porzingis213]

Hello All,

I have been having a problem with my car stalling on start up. It will stall about 2 times, then on the third normally stays alive or I give it gas to assist it. Once it starts its all good.

My mechanic diagnosed it as the coolant temp sensor and replaced it.

Next day it was still stalling, I took it back and he could not recreate the problem. When I went to pick up the car we went over all the things we thought it could be while the car was running next to us. Fuel pump, crank sensor, evap? I said goodbye got in the car and realized he had the headlights turned off(I always keep them on), I turned them and and the car stalls! I went got the mechanic and we both believe now it is the alternator. The voltage dips a good amount when switching the headlights on more than it should and sometimes the rpms dip or the engine dies. I have strong led headlights but have had them for 5 years and the battery was replactly. Unfortunately the alternator was replaced 1.5 years ago and is out of warranty. What do you guys think?

Thank you!

 

[2yotanerd]

What if you remove the bulbs and turn the headlights on (obviously they won't turn on). Does it still die?

100s are known to have issues with bad fuse boxes. Check that for signs of damage.

 

[Mike NXP]

If you're not doing the work yourself, try and find a better mechanic .It's strange to diagnose the problem to a bad coolant sensor without doing any testing . Then, if they can't sort out your problem (now that you've isolated the issue) by poking around for a few minutes with a meter they've got issues.

What type of alternator did you install when you replaced it? Has the mechanic checked for charge at the alternator and battery?

 

[Super77]

It's strange to diagnose the problem to a bad coolant sensor without doing any testing .

Has the mechanic checked for charge at the alternator and battery?

This. Get a multimeter if you don't have one. As little as $5-6 at Harbor Fright, but also worth having a decent one in your toolbox.

You should be seeing 13.5-14VDC at the positive battery terminal with the engine running, little higher under moderate load. Anything below suggests an alternator issue. But, with a healthy battery, even disconnecting alternator should not shut the engine down immediately, it will run itself down for 5-20 minutes until the battery can’t power the fuel pump and ECU. The healthier the battery and lower the load, the longer it runs.

1. Investigate whether the engine shuts off when the rear window defroster and/or cooling fan are turned on. They draw well more than the headlight.

2. If the engine does not shut off, measure the alternator voltage at its output post, both with and without load

3. If the alternator output is good, have the battery load tested.

This should help suggest whether the headlights, battery, or alternator are the root cause.

Reman OE Denso/Toyota alternator is <$200, not worth saving a few bucks on.

 

[badlander]

The engine will usually die if voltage drops below about 10 v.
Found that out running the winch.....

 

[Porzingis213]

Is this enough corrosion on my battery terminal to cause issues? The stalling problem only occurs when the headlights are on. Car will start fine if the headlights are off, if they are on it will stall and then I give it gas on the next start to stay alive. Battery voltage is 12.7 with the car off, dips to 11 when I turn the starter then when the engine runs it sits at 14.1v

 

[Mike NXP]

Doesn't look horrible but maybe..... follow the ground to the other end of that wire and check where it connects with the vehicle. If you have the time to remove and clean it all up or even just replace the cables it wouldn't be a bad idea ...how does the positive look ?

Interesting to hear you have a steady 14.1 charge voltage when running , so maybe it is just a bad ground giving you a hard time when starting