200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database (5 Viewers)

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Same - not seeing the link or download for the Wheel and Tire database.
I'm getting the bug to change the stock wheels.

Anyone running the 18 inch Method 321's with the 18mm offset? 18 offset seems to be outside the 25-50mm LC recommendation but is it really that bad?
  • Wheel Diameter (in)18
  • Wheel Width (in)9
  • Bolt Pattern5x150
  • Offset (mm)18
  • Hub Bore (mm)110.5
  • Back Spacing (in)5.68
  • Wheel Weight (lbs)30
  • Max Load (lbs)2650
Have you tried using the calculator at Wheel-size.com that was mentioned? (Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets - https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=285-50-20X8.5ET51&wheel2=285-60-18X9ET25&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm) That will let you put in the dimensions of what you currently have (wheel and tire) against what your thinking of trying.
 
Same - not seeing the link or download for the Wheel and Tire database.
I'm getting the bug to change the stock wheels.

Anyone running the 18 inch Method 321's with the 18mm offset? 18 offset seems to be outside the 25-50mm LC recommendation but is it really that bad?
  • Wheel Diameter (in)18
  • Wheel Width (in)9
  • Bolt Pattern5x150
  • Offset (mm)18
  • Hub Bore (mm)110.5
  • Back Spacing (in)5.68
  • Wheel Weight (lbs)30
  • Max Load (lbs)2650
It's your rig. Putting ET 18 wheels on it is not going to cause it to burst into flames. Plenty of guys running 0 offset for various reasons. As long as you know what going to a lower offset means, then run whatever you want.

The lower your offset, the longer your steering arc, so better chance of tire running into suspension and body mount bits and more plastic moving in the fender well. It also decreases clearance for fender/tire interference. If you run a stock size tire, probably won't matter much in reference to hitting metal. If you want to go with bigger tires you will have to do more work than if you went with a higher offset wheel.

Also, you'll be increasing scrub radius which could cause extra stress on your front suspension and steering. But see note one above, vehicle probably isn't going to explode.
 
Have you tried using the calculator at Wheel-size.com that was mentioned? (Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets - https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=285-50-20X8.5ET51&wheel2=285-60-18X9ET25&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm) That will let you put in the dimensions of what you currently have (wheel and tire) against what your thinking of trying.

Thank you. This is very handy - Is the following data published for the 200 series somewhere?
Fender clearance
Wheel wells clearance
Suspension clearance
Scrub Radius
 
Thank you. This is very handy - Is the following data published for the 200 series somewhere?
Fender clearance
Wheel wells clearance
Suspension clearance
Scrub Radius
I haven't seen those numbers - id imagine thats going to have a lot of variability given vehicle loading. I didn't worry about that as I've just tried to look at the percentage change that my tire/wheel combo has vs. the factory tire/wheel combo. There is an even simpler calculator (Tire Size Calculator: What Size Tires Should You Get? - https://www.lesschwab.com/article/tires/tire-size-calculator-what-size-tires-should-you-get.html) In my case its something like a +-3% change in diameter/width - i figure that should be well within the operating range.

There was a good post i saw on mud with a bunch of sizes listed (lx570 wheels and tires - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx570-wheels-and-tires.1324152/post-15193881) maybe that helps.
 
Anyone running the 18 inch Method 321's with the 18mm offset? 18 offset seems to be outside the 25-50mm LC recommendation but is it really that bad?
I haven’t tried the methods, but my LC came with rock warriors and 1.25” spacers creating +18 offset. While I enjoyed the look, I tried the spacers twice and both times felt like the compromises to handling were more than I was willing to put up with. It can definitely work, but I think performance is better with the wheels in a little closer. There are plenty of users on here with +18 or even 0 mm set ups though
 
Thanks everyone and especially to @lx200inAR RE: bursting into flames. Just the giggles I needed. I'll keep looking for something appealing with the correct offset.
 
It's your rig. Putting ET 18 wheels on it is not going to cause it to burst into flames. Plenty of guys running 0 offset for various reasons. As long as you know what going to a lower offset means, then run whatever you want.

The lower your offset, the longer your steering arc, so better chance of tire running into suspension and body mount bits and more plastic moving in the fender well. It also decreases clearance for fender/tire interference. If you run a stock size tire, probably won't matter much in reference to hitting metal. If you want to go with bigger tires you will have to do more work than if you went with a higher offset wheel.

Also, you'll be increasing scrub radius which could cause extra stress on your front suspension and steering. But see note one above, vehicle probably isn't going to explode.
I have a stock 2020 LX. Looking at 18” evo corse with 45 offset. Can I go 285/60 18? I’m being told I could have issues.
 
I have a stock 2020 LX. Looking at 18” evo corse with 45 offset. Can I go 285/60 18? I’m being told I could have issues.
285/60/18 is stock tire size on the Toyota version, and your wheel offset is less than an inch difference from the stock wheel offset of 60, I think you’re very likely fine using that tire and wheel combo.

Also if you’re concerned about offset I’m quite confident you can buy stock Land Cruiser or tundra 18” wheels and that should work
 
I have a stock 2020 LX. Looking at 18” evo corse with 45 offset. Can I go 285/60 18? I’m being told I could have issues.
With that offset, I bet you’d have no problem running a 285/65r18. Toyota spec’d a 285/70R17 on a ET50 wheel as an accessory for the 200 series.
 
I want to check with the collective expertise in this thread before I make the jump to aftermarket wheels, here’s the scenario.

OEM HE wheels with 1.25” spacer 285/70/18 Ridge Grappler tires.
2” OME BP51 with SPC UCA’s

Only rubbing is the tiniest amount on front mud flaps at full lock. And this is mainly due to running an aftermarket flap along with the stock one.

Looking at 17 inch Icon Rebound Pro with +25mm offset and 285/75/17 Ridge Grappler tire.

The offset difference is 3.75mm more than what I have now and, according to the tire size calculator, the tires are the same width and circumference.

I assume this is a no brainer and it should cause any issues.

My questions are:

1. is my assumption correct?
2. What am I potentially leaving on the table, should I move up to 35’s?

I’m fine with my tire size now, I don’t think gaining a half inch of ground clearance will make any difference for my use case. I’m already dealing with the slightest amount of garage clearance issues with my roof mounted traction boards that’s likely to get worse when I install the 2723 springs that are sitting in my basement right now.

I also considered the Dakarzero in 20mm offset but just couldn’t justify the cost for those beautiful wheels.

pull the trigger or rethink this combo?
 
Easy button is to stay below 34.5" for clearance and to minimize rubbing. And with the offset between 25mm to 35mm and it will fit easy enough. I had to remove mud flaps to clear the rear of the front wheel well.
My experience is that 34" barely clears at full stuff/articulation on my LC. There are some slight rub marks on the front driver side KDSS bar and also on my Dissent rear bumper wings where the tire has ever so slightly rubbed off the powder coating at full stuff.
Also the 34" tire is rubbing the top of the rear wheel well when fully stuffed.
I dont plan on a body lift or adding larger bump stops to limit up travel so I am staying at either a LT285/75r17 or could push things a bit with LT295/70r18.

The Evo corse Dakarzero wheels are beautiful and super well made. Fit like a glove. Made in Italy too. I also have Method Bead grips and Alpha Equipt wheels.
The Methods are solid and have a much more durable finish/paint compared to the Alphas. But still lag behind the Dakarzeros. The advantage the Methods have is the Bead grip design, it is impressive and doesn't let go of the bead for good and bad if you are trying to mount/dismount tires.
If i was going to start from scratch again i'd go with the Evos in the proper offset between 25-35mm or with bead grip method wheels.

I wish i would have special ordered my Evos in the 25-35mm offset range. I have the 18"s with the 45mm offset sitting in storage. Can't let myself part with them.
 
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Easy button is to stay below 34.5" for clearance and to minimize rubbing. And with the offset between 25mm to 35mm and it will fit easy enough. I had to remove mud flaps to clear the rear of the front wheel well.
My experience is that 34" barely clears at full stuff/articulation on my LC. There are some slight rub marks on the front driver side KDSS bar and also on my Dissent rear bumper wings where the tire has ever so slightly rubbed off the powder coating at full stuff.
Also the 34" tire is rubbing the top of the rear wheel well when fully stuffed.
I dont plan on a body lift or adding larger bump stops to limit up travel so I am staying at either a LT285/75r17 or could push things a bit with LT295/70r18.

The Evo corse Dakarzero wheels are beautiful and super well made. Fit like a glove. Made in Italy too. I also have Method Bead grips and Alpha Equipt wheels.
The Methods are solid and have a much more durable finish/paint compared to the Alphas. But still lag behind the Dakarzeros. The advantage the Methods have is the Bead grip design, it is impressive and doesn't let go of the bead for good and bad if you are trying to mount/dismount tires.
If i was going to start from scratch again i'd go with the Evos in the proper offset between 25-35mm or with bead grip method wheels.

I wish i would have special ordered my Evos in the 25-35mm offset range. I have the 18"s with the 45mm offset sitting in storage. Can't let myself part with them.
The Icon Rebound Pro’s have a bead lock feature using bolts. This was my one hang up on them, fear of these leaking… but I’ve yet to find any complaints of this happening.

I hear ya on the Evo’s, I actually prefer them. The offset for the 17” bronze is 0, 20, or 40. For 5 they are $3k and this isn’t including lugs, center caps, or local sales tax. Can I afford this, yes… can I live with the inevitable trail abuse… I don’t know.

You points are all well received. My current tire size of 34 is the easy hassle free sweet spot. Anything more just doesn’t seem worth it for me.
 
The Icon Rebound Pro’s have a bead lock feature using bolts. This was my one hang up on them, fear of these leaking… but I’ve yet to find any complaints of this happening.

I hear ya on the Evo’s, I actually prefer them. The offset for the 17” bronze is 0, 20, or 40. For 5 they are $3k and this isn’t including lugs, center caps, or local sales tax. Can I afford this, yes… can I live with the inevitable trail abuse… I don’t know.

You points are all well received. My current tire size of 34 is the easy hassle free sweet spot. Anything more just doesn’t seem worth it for me.
Yikes, the price of the Evos have sure gone up in the last 5 years. I think I paid around $1900 for 5 of them in 2019.
Roughing up $3k worth of wheels on the trails doesn't sound like fun at all. I'd stick with something like those Rebound Pros or some Methods. It will also be easier to find a replacement if you damage a wheel. I have had to replace one of my methods and it was an easy amazon order to get one shipped to me in a few days.
I concur, for the amount of effort and cost to get another 1/4"-1/2" of lift/clearance that the 35" tire offers over a 34" I am good with staying put where I am.
 
Yikes, the price of the Evos have sure gone up in the last 5 years. I think I paid around $1900 for 5 of them in 2019.
Roughing up $3k worth of wheels on the trails doesn't sound like fun at all. I'd stick with something like those Rebound Pros or some Methods. It will also be easier to find a replacement if you damage a wheel. I have had to replace one of my methods and it was an easy amazon order to get one shipped to me in a few days.
I concur, for the amount of effort and cost to get another 1/4"-1/2" of lift/clearance that the 35" tire offers over a 34" I am good with staying put where I am.
Yeah the Evo’s have gotten really pricey.
 
I've been trying to search but not great at it.

I can get a killer deal on some Zero offset 17" rims. I have a 2013 LX570, stock. Can anyone link to what would be needed to get to 34s or small 35s to fit and just how much cutting would be needed?
I’m running 295/70/18s on my rig on icon rebounds. I have a Westcott designs preload lift and had to originally do a “viper” cut on the bumper and BMC. Now with the arb front bumper and winch I just installed I’m starting to rub again slightly on full lock and hitting a driveway bump.
 
Not a tire pressure question but would a 6lbs per tire make a noticeable MPG and power difference? I looking at the Toyo Open Country III 285/70r18 vs the 275/70r18.
 
Not a tire pressure question but would a 6lbs per tire make a noticeable MPG and power difference? I looking at the Toyo Open Country III 285/70r18 vs the 275/70r18.
With the 6spd and added weight of skids, bumpers..etc on my 200 I was aware of the difference when upsizing from a 33" to 34" tire. I have heard this same comment from others here even with newer built 200s and the 8spd trans. The weight and reduced gearing resulting from the larger 34" was noticeable, especially at altitude and up hill, but not a deal breaker. Since changing gears to 4.30 that loss is gone and its peppier then ever. Gas mileage was within 1-2mpgs at most.
34" is a great size and I dont think anyone here has ever regretted upsizing from 275/70r18 to a 34" tire. Well worth it if you plan to offroad and need the ground clearance.
Also some food for thought is that there are many popular 275/70r18 tires that actually weigh more than some 285/70r18 tires.
The 275 Baja Boss AT comes to mind and is heavier then my 285 yoko g003 MTs and toyo AT3s.
 
With the 6spd and added weight of skids, bumpers..etc on my 200 I was aware of the difference when upsizing from a 33" to 34" tire. I have heard this same comment from others here even with newer built 200s and the 8spd trans. The weight and reduced gearing resulting from the larger 34" was noticeable, especially at altitude and up hill, but not a deal breaker. Since changing gears to 4.30 that loss is gone and its peppier then ever. Gas mileage was within 1-2mpgs at most.
34" is a great size and I dont think anyone here has ever regretted upsizing from 275/70r18 to a 34" tire. Well worth it if you plan to offroad and need the ground clearance.
Also some food for thought is that there are many popular 275/70r18 tires that actually weigh more than some 285/70r18 tires.
The 275 Baja Boss AT comes to mind and is heavier then my 285 yoko g003 MTs and toyo AT3s.
Thanks for the reply. According to Discount tire the Toyo Open Country A/T III 275/70r18 is 53lbs and the 285/70r18 is 56lbs. I really don't want to spend the dough to re-gear.
 
Thanks for the reply. According to Discount tire the Toyo Open Country A/T III 275/70r18 is 53lbs and the 285/70r18 is 56lbs. I really don't want to spend the dough to re-gear.
As long as you have the wheel offset dialed in (anywhere between 20mm-35mm) you"ll clear the front driver KDSS and body mount with a lt285/70r18. Its a no brainer for me to go with this 34" size.... other then the price Toyo charges for their lt285/70r18.... total
highway robbery lol.

Regear using the complete front and rear 3.90 diffs from the 2008-2015 cruisers is a very affordable way to go and stay all OEM quality. Somewhere around $1500-$2000 total for drop in OEM diffs is a fantastic option if you plan to regear with the 8spd.
 

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