200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database (18 Viewers)

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Lots of positive press for methods passive beadlock design, if low air pressures are in your future
 
Here's a shot of 285 75 R17s on a Black Rhino Rapid Wheel in 17x8.5 +10 offset

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That works, thank you!
No problem. One thing I don't quite understand with the 200 series dudes, is they're trying so hard to not have any tire poke, meanwhile everyone else (myself included) love the look of a little poke. I get the theory of shorter bearing service intervals, but surely 200 series dudes believe poke looks better than no poke. Sometimes form over function is a totally justifiable thing, and in the case of tires and wheels I think it's worth it
 
Personally I'm super OCD about offset but try and be realistic it's mostly preference on looks. I try and have tire edge exactly flush with the fender (zero poke or tuck) because it's what I think looks best.
Out of curiosity, what specs accomplish this goal? My tires/wheels are not flush at all with the fender and I do not care for the aesthetics particularly.
 
Out of curiosity, what specs accomplish this goal? My tires/wheels are not flush at all with the fender and I do not care for the aesthetics particularly.
Depends on the tire and wheel width (how much the sidewall bulges), but on average a +25 to +35 offset gets you very close. Factory wheel is +60.
 
Personally I'm super OCD about offset but try and be realistic it's mostly preference on looks. I try and have tire edge exactly flush with the fender (zero poke or tuck) because it's what I think looks best.

Out of curiosity, what specs accomplish this goal? My tires/wheels are not flush at all with the fender and I do not care for the aesthetics particularly.
I'd say a +20 or +25 offset. Based on the +10 I'm running now, the tires poke just a little, maybe an inch.
 
No problem. One thing I don't quite understand with the 200 series dudes, is they're trying so hard to not have any tire poke, meanwhile everyone else (myself included) love the look of a little poke. I get the theory of shorter bearing service intervals, but surely 200 series dudes believe poke looks better than no poke. Sometimes form over function is a totally justifiable thing, and in the case of tires and wheels I think it's worth it
Well.. plenty of people here run low offset wheels and spacers. But if you are trying to make a flexy off road vehicle, low offset creates a lot of compromises to keep from eating fenders. Plus having to run smaller tires to clear body mounts and other wheel well accoutrement.

Lower offset literally only satisfies the vanity itch and is worse everywhere else. So not surprising that it’s a mixed bag of who wants what.
 
No problem. One thing I don't quite understand with the 200 series dudes, is they're trying so hard to not have any tire poke, meanwhile everyone else (myself included) love the look of a little poke. I get the theory of shorter bearing service intervals, but surely 200 series dudes believe poke looks better than no poke. Sometimes form over function is a totally justifiable thing, and in the case of tires and wheels I think it's worth it
I work for a shop and see/ hear a lot of discussions on what works/ doesn’t work, so like to have visual references to help people get what they want, plus I think those wheels would be cool on my blue lc200!
 
Well.. plenty of people here run low offset wheels and spacers. But if you are trying to make a flexy off road vehicle, low offset creates a lot of compromises to keep from eating fenders. Plus having to run smaller tires to clear body mounts and other wheel well accoutrement.

Lower offset literally only satisfies the vanity itch and is worse everywhere else. So not surprising that it’s a mixed bag of who wants what.
Oh I agree, it's purely an aesthetic preference for me, but we are talking 20mm give or take. Sure it changes geometry a little but if you're fitting a 35, or 37 inch tire, you're going to be doing work regardless of offset to make it fit correctly if you really wheel. Why not make it fit with the aesthetic you really want? That's my mindset on that.
 
Oh I agree, it's purely an aesthetic preference for me, but we are talking 20mm give or take. Sure it changes geometry a little but if you're fitting a 35, or 37 inch tire, you're going to be doing work regardless of offset to make it fit correctly if you really wheel. Why not make it fit with the aesthetic you really want? That's my mindset on that.
There is quite a huge difference of required "work" to be done from a 34.x" tire to a 37" tire though.
 
Oh I agree, it's purely an aesthetic preference for me, but we are talking 20mm give or take. Sure it changes geometry a little but if you're fitting a 35, or 37 inch tire, you're going to be doing work regardless of offset to make it fit correctly if you really wheel. Why not make it fit with the aesthetic you really want? That's my mindset on that.

There is quite a huge difference of required "work" to be done from a 34.x" tire to a 37" tire though.

Exactly, a 34-35" tire with the right offset can tuck in the fender and only need a little bit of clearance in front of and behind the tire. Nothing more than moving some plastic around. To do a 34-35" tire and then have to deal with another inch (20mm or so) in every direction including increasing swing arc of the tire changes the math quite a bit. And really this applies with any plus size tire. It takes more work to make a 37 fit on a 0 offset wheel than it does on +25 to 30 offset. If we were talking about making rock crawling buggies here, then an inch wouldn't matter much, but when people are trying to squeeze that last ounce of capability from a daily driver or nice weekend cruiser, then every 20MM counts. Especially when there is no tangible benefit to running a lower offset.
 
Oh I agree, it's purely an aesthetic preference for me, but we are talking 20mm give or take. Sure it changes geometry a little but if you're fitting a 35, or 37 inch tire, you're going to be doing work regardless of offset to make it fit correctly if you really wheel. Why not make it fit with the aesthetic you really want? That's my mindset on that.

I can't speak for everyone but there maybe some more factors. The 200-series is owned generally by more mature owners, that are more discerning. Some probably already did the loud offsets in their previous cars. There's also some factors specific to this platform including more wheel travel than most , where the tire can travel way into the wheel well.

Once you start digging in, you may realize just how much aggressive poked tires give up in function. Not just fitment issues which is no small thing including crunched fenders, body mount interference, lots of rubbing. But also things such as drivability, cornering traction, MPG, etc.

I get there is value in poke too for more specific use cases like rock crawling. Jeeps use this to their advantage to keep rocks off bodywork, especially in off camber tight passes.

I would say work with the 200-series to be what it is. Get the offset right, and it'll reward with huge capability without giving up much of what Toyota intended.

This is 37x12.5 at +28 offset. Pulled and rolled fenders.
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