nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
I do and no problem at all
200 Series Lift using Tundra front IFS and Icon shocks (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TexAZ
- Start date
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turbo8
Supporting Vendor
My own design
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Your design looks great. The fact that it clears the tundra suspension and it’s in aluminum for a great price. Is powder coating an option?
If E&E doesn't offer it, most cities have half a dozen powdercoaters that would be happy to do fairly simple parts like that for a reasonable price. For reference, I had a set of sliders blasted (bad rattlecan job) and powdercoated for something like $150.
FJRanger
SILVER Star
I've been meaning to give an update on my take toward the LCA endlink mount.
Well here you go. The mounts have held up well...the Pegasus male end link, not so much. Kind of surprising actually. We weren't wheeling very hard. There was only one, maybe 2, obstacles when things were stretching out. We drug the Karavan up to Coyote Flats above Bishop.
Well here you go. The mounts have held up well...the Pegasus male end link, not so much. Kind of surprising actually. We weren't wheeling very hard. There was only one, maybe 2, obstacles when things were stretching out. We drug the Karavan up to Coyote Flats above Bishop.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Do you happen to have a picture of the other side, how that link is installed?
FJRanger
SILVER Star
It’s still mounted inside and the plan is to take this opportunity to swap it to the the outside.
FJRanger
SILVER Star
Still have yet to spend much time on the trailer after getting back. However, I reached out to the guys I had build the sway bar buckets. They asked if I’d used “FK” rod ends. So I then contacted Pegasus Racing and forwarded the photo to there tech people. Pegasus told me they used Aurora rod ends and received the following email response:
“Sorry for the trouble! From what we can see in that photo, the rod end appears to have broken from a sideways bending load due to insufficient clearance for the travel required.
The broken part of the shank is visibly bent. You can see that the threads closer to the camera are compressed and those on the far side are extended.
There is impact damage on the head of the rod end. The crescent-shaped witness mark very close to the break (pointing towards 3:00 in your photo) indicates that the rod end head contacted something – probably the retaining washer – but something else tried to get the rod end to keep going in that direction.
There also appears to be impact damage to the race of the rod end (just visible behind the retaining washer), likely also from contacting the retaining washer.
It’s hard to tell from that view if this is the result of multiple bending loads (was it being bent and starting to crack while on the trailer?) or one single bend that did all the damage. A close inspection of the fracture face might tell us. A crack that spreads into a break will sometimes leave rings that show the crack progressing from one edge to the center.
In any case, it appears that the joint needs to be redesigned to allow for more travel. You may be able to get enough travel by adding small-OD spacers on either side of the rod end. Of course this assumes that the joint design does not require the rod end to travel beyond its maximum deflection angle.
We can also send this along to the Aurora engineers if you would like. They published a “post mortem” analysis of a broken rod end found after a racing wreck some years ago, and that rod end showed some very similar signs of insufficient travel allowance. I can scan and email that article if you are interested.
I hope this information helps.”
2nd follow up:
“Happy to share! The friend in the article actually worked here when the article came out. He and the author have been friends longer than I’ve been alive, I think.
While scanning that article, the second one about rod end inspection caught my eye. It shows some “common” failure modes including a stretched housing, a broken housing around the race, a pushed-out race, and misalignment marks, but what struck me is that it doesn’t show a broken shank.
You may have also seen that we offer the same size rod end in a stronger version for more critical applications (# 3066 series):
Alloy Steel Metric Rod End, Male Threaded Shank, PTFE Lined - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3066
They’re twice the price, but almost 2 1/2 times the strength. If that broken rod end would cause a loss of control, the extra strength might be worth it. But if it only caused a more squishy ride or more body roll, then the extra cost might not be justified.”
He did include the article in a pdf. But I haven’t had the opportunity to dive into them yet.
I’m interested in making better. How, I’m not completely sure. The rod end will come off the next day or so and I get an additional picture or two asap.
What are everyone’s thought?
Nearly forgot to add, I did reach out to FK and spoke with one of their reps. He was very help, they to have several different levels of rod ends and am waiting on a vendor to get back to me with availability.
“Sorry for the trouble! From what we can see in that photo, the rod end appears to have broken from a sideways bending load due to insufficient clearance for the travel required.
The broken part of the shank is visibly bent. You can see that the threads closer to the camera are compressed and those on the far side are extended.
There is impact damage on the head of the rod end. The crescent-shaped witness mark very close to the break (pointing towards 3:00 in your photo) indicates that the rod end head contacted something – probably the retaining washer – but something else tried to get the rod end to keep going in that direction.
There also appears to be impact damage to the race of the rod end (just visible behind the retaining washer), likely also from contacting the retaining washer.
It’s hard to tell from that view if this is the result of multiple bending loads (was it being bent and starting to crack while on the trailer?) or one single bend that did all the damage. A close inspection of the fracture face might tell us. A crack that spreads into a break will sometimes leave rings that show the crack progressing from one edge to the center.
In any case, it appears that the joint needs to be redesigned to allow for more travel. You may be able to get enough travel by adding small-OD spacers on either side of the rod end. Of course this assumes that the joint design does not require the rod end to travel beyond its maximum deflection angle.
We can also send this along to the Aurora engineers if you would like. They published a “post mortem” analysis of a broken rod end found after a racing wreck some years ago, and that rod end showed some very similar signs of insufficient travel allowance. I can scan and email that article if you are interested.
I hope this information helps.”
2nd follow up:
“Happy to share! The friend in the article actually worked here when the article came out. He and the author have been friends longer than I’ve been alive, I think.
While scanning that article, the second one about rod end inspection caught my eye. It shows some “common” failure modes including a stretched housing, a broken housing around the race, a pushed-out race, and misalignment marks, but what struck me is that it doesn’t show a broken shank.
You may have also seen that we offer the same size rod end in a stronger version for more critical applications (# 3066 series):
Alloy Steel Metric Rod End, Male Threaded Shank, PTFE Lined - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3066
They’re twice the price, but almost 2 1/2 times the strength. If that broken rod end would cause a loss of control, the extra strength might be worth it. But if it only caused a more squishy ride or more body roll, then the extra cost might not be justified.”
He did include the article in a pdf. But I haven’t had the opportunity to dive into them yet.
I’m interested in making better. How, I’m not completely sure. The rod end will come off the next day or so and I get an additional picture or two asap.
What are everyone’s thought?
Nearly forgot to add, I did reach out to FK and spoke with one of their reps. He was very help, they to have several different levels of rod ends and am waiting on a vendor to get back to me with availability.
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nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
What is the setup in the extended bracket itself? Do you have spacers on either side of the joint as well? Granted I don’t have KDSS, but my joints mounted outside the arm have lasted a lot of wheeling unscathed that way
FJRanger
SILVER Star
Fortunately I remembered to snap some pictures before completely taking it apart. I come back later with some additional thoughts.
FJRanger
SILVER Star
Wanted to consolidate your comments from the other thread regarding the CoachBuilder TREs. In my humble opinion this one is a bit more comprehensive.
From the Coach Builder site:
Please Note: When using OE Spindles and installing joint on under side of steering knuckle. you MUST be running at least a 17" wheel with +25mm or less offset. 18″ wheel with a +35 mm offset or less, 20″ or larger wheels work with any offset.
Does this mean OE and the HE/TRD BBS wheels or one with a similar offset won’t work?
@nwfl4runner What wheels are you running?
From the Coach Builder site:
Please Note: When using OE Spindles and installing joint on under side of steering knuckle. you MUST be running at least a 17" wheel with +25mm or less offset. 18″ wheel with a +35 mm offset or less, 20″ or larger wheels work with any offset.
Does this mean OE and the HE/TRD BBS wheels or one with a similar offset won’t work?
@nwfl4runner What wheels are you running?
They are definitely compatible with HE rims.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Running rock warriors and no
I’m running rock warriors…. And I just removed my spacers so now I gotta check lol!
FJRanger
SILVER Star
Thanks, perfect picture.
On another note, I scanned the entire thread again attempting to answer some of my own questions and came across the bump stop posts… I went with these:
Universal Bump Stops | 9.9138
Energy Suspension universal bump stops 1-7/8 Inches Tall 2-1/4 Inches Diameter 2 Bushings Per Set. Made with premium polyurethane. In stock now! Ships out now! 9.9138
www.energysuspensionparts.com
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I'm sure those will work.Thanks, perfect picture.
On another note, I scanned the entire thread again attempting to answer some of my own questions and came across the bump stop posts… I went with these:
Universal Bump Stops | 9.9138
Energy Suspension universal bump stops 1-7/8 Inches Tall 2-1/4 Inches Diameter 2 Bushings Per Set. Made with premium polyurethane. In stock now! Ships out now! 9.9138
If you don't already have taller rear bump stops as well, I'd recommend them. Perryparts, Durobumps, etc.
This is a really interesting idea - remaking the pivot's Links.. My solution move this forward by ~1.5" for the Max Kit but having a 'straight" shot as the Red Dots above on both sides in addition would probably solve it for good, at least from a KDSS interference perspective with a 35-12.5".
Whatever replaces it would have to be beefy though, given the stress the KDSS sway bar is putting on that pivot. CNC would be the only way to practically make it... given the OEM one is cast.
Anyway something to think about.... and look at for feasibility
Anyone delete or trim their brake shields? Mine are bent to s***, rubbing on rotors and making terrible noises.
