2 in Strut spacer help! (1 Viewer)

[gomez268]

Ok, so I'm adding a 2 in front strut spacer to the cruiser to level it out. I saw videos and read as many threads related to this. Thought it would be hard but not as difficult, with all the issues I'm having.

Ok, so I finally was able to get the strut on the passenger side removed, I disconnected the steering linkage to the knuckle, the swaybar linkage to the knuckle and the upper control arm ball joint. had to put some weight on the lower control arm to get the coilover and shock removed.

Now because of the added two inches, I am unable to get the lower control arm to drop enough to slide the lower part of the shock in place.

Any tips or recommendations would be great. Also, I am unable to loosen the lower control arm bolts due to clearance issues with my impact gun.

 

[Markuson]

Not sure why you're got your suspension sitting on the concrete. But anyway...

If you mean the spacer itself is 2” tall (rather than the overall effective lift after done and set back on the tires)...that is way too much spacer to add. The Toyota spacers aren’t even a half inch thick and they get more lift than their own physical height due to geometry of the suspension.

Highly recommend you look into Toyota leveling spacers.

To put it in perspective...here are the frequently use Toyota levelers. In the photo, you’ll see that both sides stacked together are well below a single inch.

 

[TonyP]

There's a lot going on in this pic.

Your vehicle looks very low for some reason. Jack it up farther, use wood if you have to space it. Then loosen the LCA cam bolts after you mark their locations.

Hopefully have the ability to loosen your KDSS valves, otherwise getting that KDSS bar link in there is going to be a whore of a job.

Be mindful of your inner CV. If that pops out and the CV balls drop, you're looking at rebuilding your CVs.

Removing the tie-rod and UCA ball joint wasn't required. It grants you a bit more space but wasn't needed to be done.

The proper way is marking and loosening the LCA cam bolts. It's a breeze this way. Since you're not wanting to do that. Re-attach the UCA balljoint to the upright and push down (or have someone stand on the spindle) to get the LCA do deflect enough to get the lower shock mount to slide in. I've done both the LCA cam bolt method and the standing-on-the-spindle method. The LCA cam bolt method is the easiest by far.

 

[Markuson]

Can you post a pic of the spacers themselves?

 

[gomez268]

There's a lot going on in this pic.

Your vehicle looks very low for some reason. Jack it up farther, use wood if you have to space it. Then loosen the LCA cam bolts after you mark their locations.

Hopefully have the ability to loosen your KDSS valves, otherwise getting that KDSS bar link in there is going to be a whore of a job.

Be mindful of your inner CV. If that pops out and the CV balls drop, you're looking at rebuilding your CVs.

Removing the tie-rod and UCA ball joint wasn't required. It grants you a bit more space but wasn't needed to be done.

The proper way is marking and loosening the LCA cam bolts. It's a breeze this way. Since you're not wanting to do that. Re-attach the UCA balljoint to the upright and push down (or have someone stand on the spindle) to get the LCA do deflect enough to get the lower shock mount to slide in. I've done both the LCA cam bolt method and the standing-on-the-spindle method. The LCA cam bolt method is the easiest by far.

TonyP, I did loosen the KDSS valve, and I think its the angle of the picture but the vehicle is high off the ground on jack stands. I can't loosen the LCA cam bolts due to clearance issues with my impact gun.

This is the video that I based my mechanical skill on, they made it look like an easy job. but????

 

[gomez268]

Can you post a pic of the spacers themselves?

The spacers are 1 in and 1/4 thick, from the research I did, these would lift the front end of the vehicle 2 inches to give a true level look.

At the moment the battery on my phone is dead, but I'll post a picture of the spacers as soon as I can.

I just went to home depot and bought a 42-inch pry bar hoping it will give me the leverage I need to get those suckers in.

 

[Markuson]

The spacers are 1 in and 1/4 thick, from the research I did, these would lift the front end of the vehicle 2 inches to give a true level look.

At the moment the battery on my phone is dead, but I'll post a picture of the spacers as soon as I can.

I just went to home depot and bought a 42-inch pry bar hoping it will give me the leverage I need to get those suckers in.

Ah.
I thought you meant the spacer itself was 2"...
...which would get you quite a bit more than 2" lift.

PS. Listen to @TonyP.
He knows this stuff.

 

[bloc]

You need to find a good breaker bar instead of the impact. I just can’t see this happening without the cam bolts being loosened.

And, find a torque wrench capable of the values needed for those bolts. They are tight.. I don’t remember the exact number but it’s above 200.

 

[TexAZ]

A 2" lift on stock shocks and springs is going to be unstable.
I've run that setup while aftermarket shocks were in the shop.
Follow tonyp recommendation. Use a breaker bar to loosen the lower control arm nuts. The bolt side adjusts the position of the arm. Mark the placement of the cam bolts then loosen and the lower arms will drop out of the way.

 

[gomez268]

appreciate the advice but this kicked my ass I officially give up!. I couldn't get it to fit. I did manage to loosen the cam bolts but still no dice. chock this up to my inexperience. After several hours and completely drenched in sweat, I finally got her back together. I know the alignment is going to be completely off. Need to take her to an alignment shop pronto.

@TexAZ unstable? I just wanted to get the extra clearance for the trip to Colorado later this month. Will the spacer make her unstable on the hwy? like dangerously unstable? or is it more of a comfort kind of unstable? (bumpy)

 

[TexAZ]

Like wobbly coming out of corners.
Fine in a straight line, just wouldn't want to execute an emergency swerve.

 

[Rex9802]

This one hurt to read- I went through the same things last month. Looked like such an easy job. I am handy- could build you an entire house- but this project stumped me as well.

I lifted my front end about 1.5" with a front spring update. Personally, I like the stock springs better than the TGS I installed. Much more stable- even with a TGS Gold shock upgrade.

When you space the spring, the shock is extended and you loose some of the "expansion". This will cause the ride quality and stability to be reduced. I am not sure how much but it seems to be a generally accepted concern.

I would upgrade the shocks if I were you. Since you are going to have to pay for labor anyway- the extra $200 for new shocks is well worth it.

I did not have to replace my control arms. 2" should be just under the limit.