1st Generation 4Runner Purchase Advice Wanted (1 Viewer)

[SpaceCowboy]

I've been shopping around for a good reliable 4WD (second vehicle, no hardcore wheeling but tough enough for getting to 14er trailheads and maybe the White Rim) and am wondering about which year/engine/tranny combo of the 1st generation 4Runners is "the one" to get? I searched the archives but didn't read anything definitive other than to "stay away from the 3.0V6" -is this true even if the HG has been replaced? Please give me your opinions and reasons why -thanks in advance.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

4 Cylinder 5 speed, bottom line.

All the 4Runners with the 4 had fuel injection, except 84' (99% sure). The 3.0 isn't as bad as the hype, they will still go 200k pretty often. They are a little harder to work on too (less room), but not a "bad" engine. Having the head gasket changed already is a plus though. The auto trannys are all stout machines, but like any auto they suck power and mpg like it's going out of style. I looked for months for my 89, so you may have a wait in store if you are looking for a certain one.

 

[Sno bored]

I live up in Breckenridge, and have a 1987 4runner for sale. 22RE rebuilt 18k ago. 194k total miles. Recent paint, shocks, rear springs, K&N intake, header, oversized exhaust & cat. water pump and Toyota starter less than a year old. I owned it for 12 years, and recently bought a 1997 landcruiser, so I'm selling the 4runner. I'm asking around $3000. Pm me if you are interested

 

[purerockfury]

A runner !

4 Cylinder 5 speed, bottom line.
.

I have an 87' runner w/ a 22re, 5-speed and love it. It
runs great @ 150k and gets great gas mileage.
Good luck,

PRF

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

3000 isn't a bad price, I'd have jumped on it earlier last year.

 

[Steve Harris]

I have a 3.0 with 210K miles and it still does ok. But in the long run I would go with the 4cyl. Cheaper to rebuild if they ever need it and better gas mileage.

 

[notyourmomslx450]

I love my '85. 22RE, 5-spd, Solid Axle. Can't beat it.

(it's the one on the right in my avatar)

 

[lunyou]

i think the 85 is the rig to get if you have a choice. It gives you the best of both worlds, Fuel Injection and Solid Front Axle. In 84 is was solid axl and carburator(SP) and in 86 and on it was a EFI but IFS. Im still looking for an 85 like the one i used to have since i think the wife would actually consider it instead of a 40.

lunyou

 

[Rockrawler]

While the 85 is the "choice" year if you want to leave it alone, if you plan on doing any major mods for trail use I'd convert a 86-89 from IFS to SAS because you end up with stronger spring mounts than factory, a wider rear axle with thicker tubes, and bigger rear brakes, along with an IFS steering box already on the frame for Hy-Steer. The 22RE is the most reliable powerplant and accepts upgrades easily, already has the better W56 transmission & the best 21 spline gear drive t-case. ALL of the 4 & 6 cyl automatics had chain drive t-cases, but can now be converted to gear drive cases with adapters from inchworm or gearslug. The V6 manual trans is a good R150 23 spline setup, but still has the chain drive case which can also be replaced with a gear drive case when you get an adapter from AA for about $375. If you plan on doing a drivetrain swap (like a 4.3 V6 GM & TH700R4 auto) then find yourself a V6 with a blown headgasket for cheap & convert it, as you will have the stronger V6 rear diff with its larger carrier bearings and extra webbing on the pinion area. This V6 diff can also be easily swapped in to the 4 cyl housing if desired as a strength upgrade.

Terry
APOR

 

[notyourmomslx450]

While the 85 is the "choice" year if you want to leave it alone, if you plan on doing any major mods for trail use I'd convert a 86-89 from IFS to SAS because you end up with stronger spring mounts than factory, a wider rear axle with thicker tubes, and bigger rear brakes, along with an IFS steering box already on the frame for Hy-Steer. The 22RE is the most reliable powerplant and accepts upgrades easily, already has the better W56 transmission & the best 21 spline gear drive t-case. ALL of the 4 & 6 cyl automatics had chain drive t-cases, but can now be converted to gear drive cases with adapters from inchworm or gearslug. The V6 manual trans is a good R150 23 spline setup, but still has the chain drive case which can also be replaced with a gear drive case when you get an adapter from AA for about $375. If you plan on doing a drivetrain swap (like a 4.3 V6 GM & TH700R4 auto) then find yourself a V6 with a blown headgasket for cheap & convert it, as you will have the stronger V6 rear diff with its larger carrier bearings and extra webbing on the pinion area. This V6 diff can also be easily swapped in to the 4 cyl housing if desired as a strength upgrade.

Terry
APOR

if you're going to go to all the trouble of replacing/rebuilding the engine and SASing it, why not just get an '85, upgrade the spring mounts, and swap in a V-6 diff and IFS steering box/pump? Just my $0.02.

 

[Isotel]

Each to their own as far as 85 vs ifs.. IFS you dont have to worry about steering, Solid, you dont have to fab the Spring hangers..

I would look for an IFS truck 22re 5 speed I LOVE mine!.. Then if you decide to make it hard core, put a Solid Axle under their and

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Since he said no hard core wheeling, I'd suggest the IFS for a superior ride. I've owned an '85 with the 22re and 5 spd, and a '90 2nd gen with auto plus V-6. Call me a heretic, but I prefer the auto and V-6. On the other hand, for simplicity and less frequent repairs, the solid axle and 4 cyl are generally better. The stock answer for this question is: find the best value available when you decide to buy. Stay away from rust!

 

[F-junker]

I agree with gas Hog here on this I've got an 87 4runner the ride is superior to any soild axle less maybe a newer jeep with coils overs.
I've got an fj-40 underconstr, now for heavy wheeling. I have taken my IRS 4runner on many wheeling adventures and while I dont recommend doing it with out some very minor cheap mods, I have taken that thing places my buddies could not go in their Tj's and Cj's. Trick is use a locker, reinforce the front lower unit where the skid plate sits. and use 30x950s.
If you use anything larger you need to regear and deal with clearance issues
I have many friends that have bought lift kits and I think you should not waste your money for the IRS. the dont give you any noticeable front articulation.
It's fun to drag, bang and crash. If you can drive one of these trucks well over terra frima you will then maybe go for a conversion on down the road. IF you want to loss the streetablitly. Solid Axles on the road suck, unless you going coil over with links.