The pads are getting low and I feel like the brakes could use a refresh. I have never had the truck in for a brake job and have seen threads with some very specific information on the shop to choose, etc. So, in short, is there anything specific I MUST know to get the brakes done on my 2003 LX470? For context, we are at 305,000+ miles and going strong!
1st Brake job needed (since my ownership) - what do I need to know?
- Thread starter Jwoodywild
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
well one major thing you should know is that if the front brake rotors need replacing, its a job that also requires servicing / knoweldge of the front wheel bearings. either DIY or take it to a mechanic familiar with Landcruisers.
hoser
SILVER Star
At 305k, it needs to come apart to make an assessment. Rusted caliper piston, broken rubber seals, rusted/bent guide pins.... wheel bearing (as said).... the rotors need to be measured for minimum thickness.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks. What is the ballpark cost for a service like this? And what are the main symptoms of when to get it done?
Jack90210
SILVER Star
@2001LC 's master list of threads ( <-- that's a link) includes more than a few on brakes. Recommended skimming through these to find what will be helpful for you. He's widely regarded here as one of the most active master mechanics on these vehicles, and his vehicle threads are pic-heavy deep dives into "by-the-book" functional restorations with OEM parts.
Off the top of my head, some general consensus "best practices" :
Use Toyota DOT3 fluid or other high-quality fluid (I use Valvoline Synth DOT 3/4 in all of my Japanese vehicles)
OEM components are highest quality and is #1 recommendation for parts
Replace caliper bolts if they've never been replaced before
Replace any missing bleed screw caps
Flush fluid at least every 2-3 years (I do a full flush annually)
Follow torque value specs
Welcome and thanks for keeping another one of these overbuilt vehicles on the road.
Off the top of my head, some general consensus "best practices" :
Use Toyota DOT3 fluid or other high-quality fluid (I use Valvoline Synth DOT 3/4 in all of my Japanese vehicles)
OEM components are highest quality and is #1 recommendation for parts
Replace caliper bolts if they've never been replaced before
Replace any missing bleed screw caps
Flush fluid at least every 2-3 years (I do a full flush annually)
Follow torque value specs
Welcome and thanks for keeping another one of these overbuilt vehicles on the road.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for the link. I will certainly check it out. My family and I love our truck so much - we have been through a ton with it already and want to keep it going as long as possible. I am new to the SD area and trying to find that one person I can trust to do everything with the same level of care and diligence as you have outlined above. When I hand over the keys it is total trust at that point.@2001LC 's master list of threads ( <-- that's a link) includes more than a few on brakes. Recommended skimming through these to find what will be helpful for you. He's widely regarded here as one of the most active master mechanics on these vehicles, and his vehicle threads are pic-heavy deep dives into "by-the-book" functional restorations with OEM parts.
Off the top of my head, some general consensus "best practices" :
Use Toyota DOT3 fluid or other high-quality fluid (I use Valvoline Synth DOT 3/4 in all of my Japanese vehicles)
OEM components are highest quality and is #1 recommendation for parts
Replace caliper bolts if they've never been replaced before
Replace any missing bleed screw caps
Flush fluid at least every 2-3 years (I do a full flush annually)
Follow torque value specs
Welcome and thanks for keeping another one of these overbuilt vehicles on the road.
Semi related question -what are your thoughts on a brake booster?
Jack90210
SILVER Star
You mean, to replace pre-emptively, before it fails? I would first check to see how long the booster runs when the pressure is fully depleted as described in this thread -- although to be fair at 300k miles if you're on the factory unit it does seem that you're on borrowed time.
For me, the decision would partly depend upon whether I was driving the vehicle, or whether it was a spouse/child who didn't have the same degree of mechanical sympathy and awareness to know that something was starting to go wrong before the brakes fail on the highway etc.
- Thread starter
- #8
No - I meant to add a brake booster in addition to what is stock. Something to add more capability - thoughts on that? I don't know if that is common or not - I am used to seeing it with some of my other more performance oriented cars. Wildwood, etc.
No.
This is a Toyota Land Cruiser. A different kind of performance.
The designed brake systems on these trucks are excellent when you use all Toyota parts.
- Thread starter
- #10
Got it - so to recap, if the pads are getting low but there is no other visible sign of an issue, and I am at 305K miles, I should:
a. Go to a LC shop to get a brake job sometime soon.
b. Replace pads and machine rotors (?)
c. Use only OEM parts
Anything else?
If brake fluid in MC reservoir is dark and has not been flushed recently it would be good idea to have the brake fluid flushed and replaced. This would also help with extending the life of your MC/brake booster
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Unlike most of the other fluids in your LC, brake fluid is hygroscopic. That means it readily absorbs moisture. That moisture can corrode brake lines over time. Given our humidity down south, you should really have the brake fluid changed at least once every 2 or 3 years.
Probably cheaper to change the rotors than to have them turned and at 300k+ you probably need new ones anyway. At that mileage I would have the rest of the front end checked as well.
Probably cheaper to change the rotors than to have them turned and at 300k+ you probably need new ones anyway. At that mileage I would have the rest of the front end checked as well.
- Thread starter
- #13
Am I better off at a really great shop that only does brakes or at Cruiser shop that just works on Cruisers - but who may or may not be the most diligent?
I'd say between those two, choose the Cruiser shop 100%. While the front bearing repack/preload process isn't rocket science, it can and very likely will be done wrong even by a shop or tech who means well and thinks they're doing everything right.
If you have any inclination to work on this yourself, this is a good job to think about doing. It doesn't require a lift or access to much beyond a few basic tools you may need to purchase, and nobody cares as much about your truck as you do, even a cruiser shop. In addition, to do this job properly, the labor charges will be much higher than you'd expect for a "typical" brake job. There are excellent threads on this site that detail the process and point out all the common mistakes very well. I read up on all of those, and tackled it all over the Thanksgiving break last year on my truck and it all went very smoothly.
If you have any inclination to work on this yourself, this is a good job to think about doing. It doesn't require a lift or access to much beyond a few basic tools you may need to purchase, and nobody cares as much about your truck as you do, even a cruiser shop. In addition, to do this job properly, the labor charges will be much higher than you'd expect for a "typical" brake job. There are excellent threads on this site that detail the process and point out all the common mistakes very well. I read up on all of those, and tackled it all over the Thanksgiving break last year on my truck and it all went very smoothly.
Don’t forget to bed in your brake pads. There are plenty of YouTube videos describing this but could be missed since some shops do not take liability in driving customer’s cars around anymore. I’m not sure if they can do this on a lift either.
Definitely go to a dedicated cruiser shop since there are plenty of stories on here where even missing snap rings are commonplace. If it’s allowed, buy all parts from the above link and take to the mechanic, even the grease since these hubs take a sh** ton of it. A cruiser shop should also have techstream which will allow them to bleed the ABS system. This would also be a good opportunity for e-brake adjustments.
And last, take off the hub covers gently before dropping off since they can easily break and at ~$60 a piece they aren’t worth replacing in my opinion. I’ve heard of some members adding a dab of hot glue to the tabs before reinstalling to secure them a little better.
Definitely go to a dedicated cruiser shop since there are plenty of stories on here where even missing snap rings are commonplace. If it’s allowed, buy all parts from the above link and take to the mechanic, even the grease since these hubs take a sh** ton of it. A cruiser shop should also have techstream which will allow them to bleed the ABS system. This would also be a good opportunity for e-brake adjustments.
And last, take off the hub covers gently before dropping off since they can easily break and at ~$60 a piece they aren’t worth replacing in my opinion. I’ve heard of some members adding a dab of hot glue to the tabs before reinstalling to secure them a little better.
Last edited:
