1KZ-TE Swap Into 1988 Xtracab - Help identify model this engine came from. (1 Viewer)

[ShiftyYota]

Probably jumped the gun a bit and ordered a JDM 1KZ-TE w/R150F from out of state. I can expect it in the next few weeks. As of now, I have two 4x4 XtraCab pickups one 1988 with a 3vze w/auto tranny and a 1987 22R w/G54 that is in paint. This painted cab will be placed back onto the chassis with the strong running 22R and drivetrain.

My plan is to use the donor with the v6 motor to work out all the kinks of the swap and then set the painted cab down on this drivetrain.

I am hoping someone in the know could answer some questions and provide some details of the motor I’m getting delivered. I want to make sure I can get it fired up on the ground before my "warranty" window expires so I’m trying to be prepared when it arrives.

I cannot figure out what vehicle and year this JDM motor came from. I would like to determine that to get the wiring schematics I need.
This has the "E12" pump with the new styler spill valve which I think does not need a power relay to energize looking through various schematics ive come across.

I’m unsure about the throttle control as well. I cannot make out a throttle linkage bellcrank in the photos from the seller. Was there a fly by wire model that used this engine? If so, I will need to get that pedal assembly or a potentiometer of similar value for testing.

The ECU is 89666 60010. I found one with the same part# that lists it for the following:

“PRADO 1996 - 2003 ENGINE ECU, 3.0, 1KZ-TE, DIESEL, MANUAL, P/N 8966660010, ECU ONLY, 95 SERIES, 07/96-01/03”

This ECU takes four connections from the looks of it. I cannot come up with a pinout for this ECU

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[ShiftyYota]

I think I have the right manual/ wiring schematic and it looks like I have the fly by wire throttle body.

How about immobilizer bypassing? If the wiring diagram I have is right, i've got that to defeat before I can get it started.

 

[Workhorse]

@Mauser might be able to help with immobilizer delete.

 

[ShiftyYota]

@Mauser might be able to help with immobilizer delete.

Cool. I'll give him a message to see if he could assist. Thank you

 

[ShiftyYota]

The engine arrived today.

I pulled the valve cover to check valve clearances. Two intake clearances are a bit tight. I am tryint to get an idea of what kind of milage this motor has on it. Any idea based on these results?

Intake (cold)
(spec. 0.20 - 0.30mm)
#1 - 0.20mm
#2 - 0.15mm
#3 - 0.18mm
#4 - 0.23mm

Exhaust (cold)
(spec. 0.25 - 0.35mm):
#1 - 0.28mm
#2 - 0.31mm
#3 - 0.33mm
#4 - 0.35mm

Verified timing marks were lined up correctly. Had a Bosch timing belt fitted. Is that strange for a "JDM" engine to sport a Bosch belt?
Oil Filter is also a Ryco (Australian I think). Is Ryco a common brand in Japan?

Glow Plugs were pulled and no missing tips were found, all pretty even coloring. The oily one is from me cleaning the area around the plug before removal. I added lubricant through the glow plug holes and manually turned the motor over a few revolutions. Lubed the valve train and cranked the motor to get some oil moving and make sure I wasn't going to hydro lock it with the added lube in the cylinders.

Inspected turbo compressor wheel for play with a slim plastic pick, none was found. The leading edges look good.

I gave it a shot of ether (lubricant added) and it popped off right away then died.

Im wondering why there is no EGR system on this engine. Manifold has the boss cast but is untapped, the intake manifold has a freeze plug installed and no thread in the boss. What could this motor have come in?

The whole intake track looks really clean because of the lack of EGR. Also the valve train seems pretty clean to me. I am hopefull there is no immobilizer issues when the wiring starts.

 

[ShiftyYota]

Its looking like this came from a 2000ish KZJ95 from Oz based on the only two hits I've seen talking about no EGR from the factory.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

When I look up that ECU part number in the Toyota EPC (which is a great way to determine what the motor came out of), this is what I see:

Year 2000 - 2002
Sales region General
Frame KZJ95
grade GX
ENGINE 1KZTE
TRANSMISSION MTM
DESTINATION ARL
Model LAND CRUISER PRADO 90
From 01.2000 To 09.2002
No.of Doors 5D
Vehicle Model Land Cruiser Prado
Driver's Position RHD Fuel Induction TDEFI

More info here:

2000 - 2002 Toyota LAND CRUISER PRADO KZJ95 OEM Parts | General sales region, , 937070

Your #1 online source of new genuine original OEM parts for 2000 - 2002 Toyota LAND CRUISER PRADO KZJ95 (General sales region, , 937070) at discounted prices from manufacturers' warehouses in Japan, USA, UAE. Detailed diagrams & catalogues. Fast worldwide shipping to your door. Easy to find...

www.megazip.net

 

[ShiftyYota]

Thanks for taking the time. I saw your response on the other thread. I understand wanting to make your help public to help others in the future. My aim was to get some visibility on my thread.

Looks like "Destination" is ARL a quick google shows that is Australia is that right in your experience?
I am trying to get a feel for what kind of milage I may have on this thing. I know there are tons of variables but any idea if my valve clearances could shed some light?

 

[bikersmurf]

Thanks for taking the time. I saw your response on the other thread. I understand wanting to make your help public to help others in the future. My aim was to get some visibility on my thread.

Looks like "Destination" is ARL a quick google shows that is Australia is that right in your experience?
I am trying to get a feel for what kind of milage I may have on this thing. I know there are tons of variables but any idea if my valve clearances could shed some light?

I could see determining condition and how well it’s been maintained through the valve clearances. I feel mileage would be a gross ballpark at best.

Part of the reason I say this is that on a 20 year old motorcycle I had (bit of a stretch for comparison) all 8 valves were still within factory spec after 40k miles. Based on this pattern it could have anywhere between 5 miles and 60k miles…. Possibly even 100k miles. Given the particular bike often goes for 150k miles or more, mileage becomes irrelevant.

What I feel is more relevant to your project is the condition of the engine. Mileage is often used to help quantify this, but maintenance and how it has been used play such a big roles that the true number of miles becomes irrelevant.

The bigger questions are: How soon does this head need to be redone? What condition are the pistons, rings, and bores in? Should bearings be replaced?

Not that I don’t think you’re on the right track… I just feel the answers to these questions will be more useful in the long run.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I agree with what bikersmurf said. Engine condition is determined a lot more by maintenance (or lack of), run hours, and how it was used. Mileage definitely doesn't tell the whole story.

Lack of EGR definitely points to this motor not having come from the Japan market. Australia would make sense, as I think they were behind the times with emissions requirements.

From my own experience on shim over bucket toyota motors, I think your valve specs look just fine.

Usually compression figures are the best way to determine the motor condition. You could test compression before fitting the motor if you power the starter directly. Or at the very least, turn the crank with a ratchet and feel the compression as each piston is on compression stroke. Listen carefully for hissing sounds each time, as this will indicate blow-by past the rings.

Everything you've written along with your pictures lead me to believe this motor is in good condition and great for swap. Lack of EGR is a huge benefit, and will mean this motor had a less stressed life. The EGR motors have throttle plates which really limit air flow into the motor, leading them to run hotter.

If you want to get a feeling for bearing wear, you could very carefully remove the cam shaft and inspect the bearings (follow manual instructions to a 'T'). If the oil was not changed very often the bearings will show it.

 

[ShiftyYota]

Thanks guys.

I have purchased a generic compression tester and will get some results today or tomorrow if the tester unit doesn't leak or otherwise suck. I was thinking about pulling the cam caps and looking for worn bearings. Maybe even get some plastiguage and check clearances and mic cam journals. I'd like to check the bottom end eventually once I get the wiring sorted and motor fired up.

I'm liking the fact that there's no EGR and it hasn't been subjected to that its whole life.

I was hoping someone could tell me what their valve lash looked like at say.... 100K, 200K etc. I realize it's not the only indicator of wear but I was curious as the few posts I've seen indicate valves stay in spec generally out past 200k.

Thanks again for the help.

I may fab up a leakdown tester as well.

 

[ShiftyYota]

Tested compression. I've read 4 revolutions only for diesel compression testing.

I got 445-450psi on each cylinder with 4 revolutions.

Maximum achieved was 545psi across all cylinders with 12 revolutions per cyl. Any more than 12 and I saw no significant increase.

Manual says 441psi or more and your in spec.

Feeling pretty good about that. Cylinders were probably not totally dry as I added some lube the day I got it so I wouldn't be turning this thing over dry.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Tested compression. I've read 4 revolutions only for diesel compression testing.

I got 445-450psi on each cylinder with 4 revolutions.

Maximum achieved was 545psi across all cylinders with 12 revolutions per cyl. Any more than 12 and I saw no significant increase.

Manual says 441psi or more and your in spec.

Feeling pretty good about that. Cylinders were probably not totally dry as I added some lube the day I got it so I wouldn't be turning this thing over dry.

That sounds really good. It takes very little oil/lube to raise the figures quite a bit (as the cylinder volume at TDC is very small). That may explain why you were getting some very high numbers. In any case, sounds like you're good to go!

I think I might have been a bit misleading above. It looks like your non-EGR 1KZTE still does have a throttle plate in the venturi. It's the non-EGR 1KZ-T that has no throttle plate. In any case, lack of EGR alone is a great thing! Also, an intercooled motor will have had an easier life too (with lower IATs).

 

[ShiftyYota]

After studying various Electrical wiring diagrams, I have gotten to the point of checking codes. My wiring getup isnt pretty but it works so far and is protected by fuses so hopefully if I screw up a pin I wont smoke anything.

I got codes 15 (Throttle Motor), 19 (Accel Pedal Position Sensor) and 32 (Inj. Pump Correction Resistor). The first two make sense as there is no APP sensor wired in so I think that explains the first two codes. I cannot find a spec. or range for this correction resistor. It is a single unit with what I assume are two set values.

I do not see an Immobilizer code reporting (code 99). I simulated cranking without the starter hooked up to see if I could get the Immo code to show up with no luck. I hope it does not show up when I really start trying to fire this engine up.

I will try for a proper start Friday hopefully if my fuel lines, primer bulb, filter and ECU connectors show up.

I am having some worries about the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. This model looks to have used a 5 wire APP unit with separate idle micro switch along with one that is incorporated into the potentiometer ; that is assuming the pictures of associated part are correct.

I have purchased a 6 wire APP and tested it with 5vdc. It has two sensors that will vary the voltage in the range the FSM calls for. The diagram Ihave been using for my wiring project shows the 6 wire APP so I hope what I have works.

 

[bikersmurf]

@GTSSportCoupe works in electronics… hopefully he’ll be able to shed some light on it. I’m more a carb and points mechanic. I’m expanding into FI in the future, but it’s well outside my previous area of expertise.

 

[ShiftyYota]

I got fuel hooked up today, cracked the injector lines at each injector and cranked till diesel made its way to the injectors. It started breifly then died, this happened several times and now the ECU is throwing the "99" code which is the immobilizer.

Anybody know who could delete the immobilizer requirement off my ECU?

 

[bikersmurf]

Progress in the right direction.

 

[ShiftyYota]

Making pretty good time.. Up late trying to figure out this immobilizer hurdle.

 

[bikersmurf]

Making pretty good time.. Up late trying to figure out this immobilizer hurdle.

unfortunately, it's not the sort of thing that everyone wants to advertise... in fact people may go to lengths to avoid it being public.

I'd wonder if locksmiths (or someone else) could change a setting to get rid of it... reflash it or similar

 

[ShiftyYota]

I have found someone who can handle the ECU modification. I also got the original 3VZ out of the truck. The orignal engine is bigger than I expected. It looks like the factory chassis mounts are at an approximately 45* angle while the mounts on the 1KZ-TE look to be about 35*. Too bad the angles are off but I think I will need to move the mounts back anyway to get the most clearance up front for the biggest radiator I can fit,

I had the motor about halfway out when the cherry picker stopped pumping. I had to lower it back down remove from the engine and prime the cylinder with a full run to the top of its stroke and then back down, reattached to the engine and lifted it fully to clear the rad support.

A good reminder to make sure the full lift height is achieved before committing to the lift.