1HZ Turbo thread

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

great info, i'll be doing this soon as well i hope so i'll be following this thread.

i think I read in my 1HZ manual that the redline for these engines is over 4500rpm. i have nver taken mine that high because it seems to run out of breath between 3000 and 3500rpm. It would be nice have a turbo setup that would pull hard through 4000rpm and let us take advantage of our overhead cams.
 
Looks like your engine is in fine health.
 
lshobie said:
Just had the truck Dyno'd, I'll post the graph tonight or tomorrow. Bottom line is 96HP at the wheels and 170 foot punds of torque at the wheels. The dyno guy figured with all things considered the flywheel values are 130 and 200 based on all the erros between the engine and the wheels.

So, as was expected.
Click to expand...

Sorry to highjack, how much did the runs cost you at Tapp? I didn't know if they would book diesels. Did they care about the rough tire surface? I wanted to lay down a baseline on mine before I start cranking.
 
Ya, mine was not producing over 3500- wold have been hard pressed to get more rpm than that.

Fromage, 3 runs cost me 91 tax included - best 91 I ever spent. Just a baseline for when I add the turbo charger.

They didnt care about the tire surface, they just hooke dit up and ran it up - just make sure you have a tach on it.
 
with the proper turbo it is easy to get 4200 rpm...
i have done it many times now...
smooth, quiet, powerful...what more do you want?
what is surprising is the engine never sounds like it is working hard. you would expect to feel tingles on the back of your neck when the rpm passes 3500 but they don't. you just end up with a big grin on your face knowing you have the power to pass now if you want...
 
very cool. looking for a dyno now. just to know whats up with the current setup.... makes sense to fix first, turbo second
 
i have fitted a DTS turbo kit to my hzj 75 ute, it has lots of boost when you are ready to change gears but does not get much till you get to 1800rpm. this leads me to the next paragraph for a complete answer, small turbo gives good boost early but as previously mentioned the ex gas temp can be a problem.

does anybody have tech specs on both a 1hz and 1hdt camshafts? i am wondering if it is possible to grind a 1hz one to 1hdt specs. i know the 1hdt has 1mm less lift on the inlet lobe and it is much cheaper to do that than buy a 1hdt cam $480.00 from engine australia. i am building a turbo hz engine that should go real well and live, shame it was not a cheap task.

thanks
 
these engines will last for 500,000kms plus if you do two things, change your oil every 5000 km and don't take it over 3000rpm. i have seen several utes out in western queensland with 500,000 plus kms on them and they were good as
 
before you remove the turbo crank up the fuel and give that a try...
the one HZJ75 i did had a larger than required turbo installed and we couldn't get more than 6 lbs of boost. we increased the fuel settings and then achieved 14 psi and the truck really rocked...pro stayed below 1200F (preturbo)...
crank the fuel till you are maxing at 1200F and see what happens...also is this test run under a load like a steep hill or you can tow somethign for the same load. of course you are testing the max with the foot to the floor to 4000 rpms right?
 
Hi Wayne,

Can't believe I didnt think about cranking the fuel up on it - me dummy -- i guess over worked and underpaid has it consequences eh/

I'll send you a pic of the pump, there is no adjustment screw on it as it has the High Altitude compensator on it. So, I have 2 options, I can either strip a new pump that I have that has no HAC on it - and then I will have a adjustment screw, or I can mess with the HAC to give me more fuel - maybe remove the HAC metal cap and add a shim or 2 - or subtract a shim or 2 - or maybe tack an adjustment screw on the cap so i can force the bellows down to add more fuel. Will have to see - and think about it.

My turbo shop guy mentioned preloading the wastegate as well to prevent premature openig and fluttering.

I guess changing the A/R won't do anything other than cause it to boost sooner - so that doesnt make sense.

I could also go with a different injector nozzle size - anyone on here do that?
 
I thought ( from my little experience ) .69 AR turbine side it to high .. I don't thing our diesel engine have the flow to move it at low rpm .. ñ

Said that in my 2H I turn the hole HAC to the left to archive more fuel .. and I get it .. 2.5 complete turns in mu case .. and just wondering I have more to play ..
 
Good to see an update.
I suspect that GT32 would be a good size for a 4.2L petrol motor, but a diesel would be approaching 6L before it'd be useful.

Preloading the wastegate will just keep it closed longer which will give you higher boost (if the turbo. It won't stop fluttering if it's there, a small restriction in the wastegate line is the right way to stop fluttering (if it's doing that).

IMO if it can't make full boost by 2000rpm, then it's way too big. Cranking up the fuel will make smoke before boost arrives.
 
Hi Dougal, I'll try turning up the fuel, if that doesnt give a decent result I will probably get the 2860 - But I hope I dont have to - big job making that turbo fit - don't want to have to take it off now.
 
Dougal said:
IMO if it can't make full boost by 2000rpm, then it's way too big. Cranking up the fuel will make smoke before boost arrives.
Click to expand...

why the fxxx would you want full boost below cruising rpm? are you spouting pure bull s*** again?

you want about 6 lbs of boost at cruising with 14 lbs max on a 1HZ for climbing and passing or towing. you DO NOT want full boost at 2000 rpm.

<warning, see sig line>
 
crushers said:
why the **** would you want full boost below cruising rpm? are you spouting pure bull **** again?
Click to expand...

Getting abusive already? Sounds like you're losing an argument.;)

Quite simple. Because when you drop below cruising rpm (like on a hill) you want full torque available. That needs full boost.
It's necessary offroad as well as having a positive effect on fuel economy.

crushers said:
you want about 6 lbs of boost at cruising with 14 lbs max on a 1HZ for climbing and passing or towing. you DO NOT want full boost at 2000 rpm.
Click to expand...

So toyota continues to get it wrong with all their diesels then huh? All the ones I've driven get full boost before 2000rpm.

crushers said:
<warning, see sig line>
Click to expand...
The answer to that question is quite clear on this subject.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

rloaderro
1HZ + Turbo
Replies
4
Views
2K
Dougal
D
athensrep
Slow cranking 1HZ when cold
Replies
2
Views
162
athensrep
athensrep
dare
1HZ and 4BD1 engine weight
Replies
3
Views
992
Dougal
D
Alpine4X4
1HZ Oil Pan Replacement Question
Replies
3
Views
691
Alpine4X4
Alpine4X4

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom