- Thread starter
- #21
It's less about being cheap although yes I wouldn't mind saving the money, it's more about the timing and how quickly I can get those parts.
1HZ Troopy rear heater delete
- Thread starter woytovich
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- Thread starter
- #23
So.... I have the 3 pieces listed in the previous post.
This post shows 3 hoses being replaced by the 2 longer ones... where does the new short hose go? is it the piece numbered 87245E in the diagram?
forum.ih8mud.com
This post shows 3 hoses being replaced by the 2 longer ones... where does the new short hose go? is it the piece numbered 87245E in the diagram?
1HZ Troopy rear heater delete
I know there's a thread on here with some info but it's not very detailed... Looking for some guidance to remove the rear heater and related piping on my 1995 HZJ75 Troopy. I'd like to do it as cleanly as possible and I'm hoping for some info from someone that has done this on a 1HZ. I'm not...
forum.ih8mud.com
Mark: it goes from the valve to the firewall heater core outlet pipe.
Exactly as the picture shows.
Look at the picture, look at the valve, look at your truck. It’s should be very obvious when you do that.
Exactly as the picture shows.
Look at the picture, look at the valve, look at your truck. It’s should be very obvious when you do that.
- Thread starter
- #25
Thank you for conferring that.
- Thread starter
- #26
Out there staring at this and I have a question about the left side arrangement.
It looks like the bottom end of the "old" (purple) and "new" (yellow) hoses attach to the block in different places. Is that true? and if so I would imagine I need to either plug the hole in the block?
Or am I just not understanding how these work?
This is the fitting whose hose runs to the hard line for the rear heater.
This is the fitting whose hose runs to the heater valve.
This is the current hose that runs from the yellow circled fitting (in the picture just above this) to the heater valve.
It looks like the bottom end of the "old" (purple) and "new" (yellow) hoses attach to the block in different places. Is that true? and if so I would imagine I need to either plug the hole in the block?
Or am I just not understanding how these work?
This is the fitting whose hose runs to the hard line for the rear heater.
This is the fitting whose hose runs to the heater valve.
This is the current hose that runs from the yellow circled fitting (in the picture just above this) to the heater valve.
Mark
The purple is the pound in bung I spoke of (i think in head). You either must cap that, or remove bung and put the right size freeze plug in its place.
The yellow is the standard heater line used in all hz/hdt models.
I don’t have rear heater in current truck so I cannot take a worthy image here.
The purple is the pound in bung I spoke of (i think in head). You either must cap that, or remove bung and put the right size freeze plug in its place.
The yellow is the standard heater line used in all hz/hdt models.
I don’t have rear heater in current truck so I cannot take a worthy image here.
- Thread starter
- #28
that sounds like a bigger project than I can handle in the next few days, before a trip I have planned. So, as a stop Gap situation in order to remove the rear heater itself can I plug the two rubber lines going into the heater itself? Should I instead join them together?
i would join them
- Thread starter
- #30
If I were to cap it is there a known solution for that cap?
- Thread starter
- #31
And a way to plug/cap one of the ports in the block?
- Thread starter
- #32
1. Which is the INPUT and which the OUTPUT from the rear heater?
2. Why is it not advisable to just plug the rear heater's input hose where it meets the hard line on the firewall? (until I get around to dealing with the "extra' block output (input? - see question #1)
I'm just thinking simple/fast fix. join the inlet/outlet so you have flow, unless you understand better than I do how the cooling flows. maybe someone smarter than me will chime in.
It is better to have flow so you do not end up with any "dead ends" where coolant just sits, building up deposits. Join the 2 ends after removing as much of the rear heater lines as possible, removing potential points of failure. Best of luck!
