- Thread starter
- #281
Getting there...
Build 1HZ-T HZJ78 All-Climate Expo Build
- Thread starter DamoPeru
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #282
Wife reckons we look like an armoured vehicle now, I sort of agree. All because of the numerous rivets and mounting bolt heads really. But we're super happy about how this will make living out of the back so cool in hot weather. Yesterday I sat working on my laptop in the back in full tropical sun and it was nice!
- Thread starter
- #283
- Thread starter
- #284
Damien, you're making me drool.
- Thread starter
- #286
Hit a wall on the 1HZ alternator that's supposed to fit. This is the model and they haven't replied to any of my emails so regardless of whether the alternator works as described I have to say steer clear of them.
I checked the 1HZ alternator support, adjuster bracket and belt part numbers for all 1HZ landcruiser variants and they are the same, even for different size alternators, so this is just a plain lie that this is a bolt on 1HZ replacement.
After previously grinding the alternator to see if it could fit in under the adjuster bracket, my plan was to remove the bracket from the water pump casing and modify it... thinking I would source a new bracket to keep with the original alternator as a spare. However upon removing the torque on the first of two pump case housing bolt, coolant started spewing out, so I torqued it back straight away. I haven't driven it yet but hoping the gasket hasn't been jeapodized.
Anyway, I now realise the plan of changing out the adjuster bracket with spare alternator as an emergency spare is flawed. So the adjuster bracket stays as is, and I've slightly shaved the bottom of it to allow a little more travel. I will now drill a new hole in the alternator to match the adjuster bolt and source new belts to make it work. This is as far as it will go.
So a new hole to go somewhere here
I checked the 1HZ alternator support, adjuster bracket and belt part numbers for all 1HZ landcruiser variants and they are the same, even for different size alternators, so this is just a plain lie that this is a bolt on 1HZ replacement.
After previously grinding the alternator to see if it could fit in under the adjuster bracket, my plan was to remove the bracket from the water pump casing and modify it... thinking I would source a new bracket to keep with the original alternator as a spare. However upon removing the torque on the first of two pump case housing bolt, coolant started spewing out, so I torqued it back straight away. I haven't driven it yet but hoping the gasket hasn't been jeapodized.
Anyway, I now realise the plan of changing out the adjuster bracket with spare alternator as an emergency spare is flawed. So the adjuster bracket stays as is, and I've slightly shaved the bottom of it to allow a little more travel. I will now drill a new hole in the alternator to match the adjuster bolt and source new belts to make it work. This is as far as it will go.
So a new hole to go somewhere here
- Thread starter
- #287
Well after much more mucking around than I hoped, I managed to press drill a hole on the alternator, and combined with the grinding on the alternator, grinding to the underside of the alternator bracket and 2cm longer fan belts, i finally fitted the big alternator. I'm going to have to carry and change out the belts a bit more frequently than usual, I can barely just force a 1040 mm belt on without damaging it, and i just gets tight almost at the end of the traveln as overall i only have about 2/5 the travel on the adjuster.
I'm routing the cables around the bottom of the radiator.
Limited to zipties here
Bit of a gap to enter on the left side
I'm just running the ground to a common ground on the body beside the cranker, trying to keep the cranker terminals less cluttered. The positive is running under the battery tray. Still yet to install a positive powerpost somewhere out of the way, from which I'll connect both chargers and the winch directly. Edit: no powerpost in the end, I made the charger input terminal a post and am just connecting the cable for the second auxiliary charger directly to that.
I'm routing the cables around the bottom of the radiator.
Limited to zipties here
Bit of a gap to enter on the left side
I'm just running the ground to a common ground on the body beside the cranker, trying to keep the cranker terminals less cluttered. The positive is running under the battery tray. Still yet to install a positive powerpost somewhere out of the way, from which I'll connect both chargers and the winch directly. Edit: no powerpost in the end, I made the charger input terminal a post and am just connecting the cable for the second auxiliary charger directly to that.
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- Thread starter
- #288
This is roughly where the cranker charger will go, it's going to be tight to fit everything else.
Nice!
- Thread starter
- #290
If drilling holes in your landcruiser gives you the geebies, look away now
Didn't get much time today but advanced getting the charger installed
Didn't get much time today but advanced getting the charger installed
- Thread starter
- #291
i'm travelling on holidays since almost a month ago, but i got a little more done before leaving.
here's the charger fitted without the lid, which was a challenge to mount so that the lid could be removed due to the brake master cylinder.
the 120amp output from the charger will be fused before the battery by a waterproof 150amp continuous rated circuit breaker. I put it just beside the charger so there's no additional cable, got a panel type breaker and cut another hole so its installation could be a little cleaner with cables hidden inside the cavity behind the panel. still need to wire these definitively when i get home
here's the charger fitted without the lid, which was a challenge to mount so that the lid could be removed due to the brake master cylinder.
the 120amp output from the charger will be fused before the battery by a waterproof 150amp continuous rated circuit breaker. I put it just beside the charger so there's no additional cable, got a panel type breaker and cut another hole so its installation could be a little cleaner with cables hidden inside the cavity behind the panel. still need to wire these definitively when i get home
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- Thread starter
- #292
Sorry for the lack of updates, have been doing a lot on all fronts but I'm in the midst of a record hot summer here, about 40•C in my work area and I have been struggling to keep the workrate up let alone post about it.
In a nutshell she's back close to being a carcass again, basically trying to get everything drilled and cut on the vehicle so I can put her in to be painted.
I'll post some pictures later on if I'm not sweating to much to hold on to a camera.
In a nutshell she's back close to being a carcass again, basically trying to get everything drilled and cut on the vehicle so I can put her in to be painted.
I'll post some pictures later on if I'm not sweating to much to hold on to a camera.
- Thread starter
- #293
Not a great amount to report photographically as I'm still just drilling and fitting stuff temporarily before the paint, but I snapped a shot of these while they were up. No paint or rubber separator yet. Certainly a pain in the bum to fit, mostly cause I am not using rivets as per the OEM installation. Currently bolted on, thought about nutserts, but I would hope I never have to remove the brackets.
- Thread starter
- #294
I'm thinking about reinforcing the factory fibreglass flares with rhino liner inside and out. Anyone done that before? They will eventually be painted same brown as the rest.
Once everything's painted and I fit them for the final time, had thought of injecting expansive foam into the cavities as well, to make them more robust and keep the water out... heard they are terrible for rust. I can't think of any reason not too at this point but let me know if you can think of a reason I'm not thinking of. My bumper and side bars will be extended to protect them so I shouldn't have to remove them
Once everything's painted and I fit them for the final time, had thought of injecting expansive foam into the cavities as well, to make them more robust and keep the water out... heard they are terrible for rust. I can't think of any reason not too at this point but let me know if you can think of a reason I'm not thinking of. My bumper and side bars will be extended to protect them so I shouldn't have to remove them
- Thread starter
- #296
yes they are, no skinny nose troopy in any market ever came with them, but the part numbers are from a 74 and they fit perfectly.
- Thread starter
- #298
PM me and I can send you the part numbers if you like, but yes it will set you back couple of big ones
Damien! Update?
- Thread starter
- #300
Yes I've dropped the ball on the updating! Things are progressing slowly but my time is precious of late and I haven't gotten around to going through my photos. But I will at some point.