Builds 1HZ Rebuild Project

[lelandEOD]

Here's #1:

The rest of the bearings look similar to this:

 

[mudgudgeon]

Are BEBs on the 1HZ susceptible to failing as a common failure mode like the 1HDTs? Should BEBs also be replaced for a "new to you" 1HZ?

Generally, no. The BEB problem was only common in the 1HD-T, and even then, hit and miss. On any of these engines I would do a used oil sample analysis and look for an indication of bearing metal in the oil before ripping in to change BEBs

 

[mudgudgeon]

@lelandEOD is looking like it's well ready for a rebuild

The different burn pattern in #4 suggests a bad injector too me

 

[lelandEOD]

@lelandEOD is looking like it's well ready for a rebuild

The different burn pattern in #4 suggests a bad injector too me

Finally got the bearing cap off!

"Survey SAYS...!!!!!"

...If the rod bearings were bad, the main bearings were even more baderer...

I'm really glad I decided to pull it completely apart at this point.

 

[roscoFJ73]

...If the rod bearings were bad, the main bearings were even more baderer...

If its any comfort, everythings gone baderer fairly equally. I'm wondering if this engine skipped a few oil changes. And it looks like there were a few loose particles in the oil.

 

[lelandEOD]

If its any comfort, everythings gone baderer fairly equally. I'm wondering if this engine skipped a few oil changes. And it looks like there were a few loose particles in the oil.

Well, I have it completely apart and didn't find anything extraordinarily bad; the crank and block look fine. I have everything sorted into boxes for powdercoating, zinc plating, steamcleaning, and machine work. Everything that can be labeled and or marked for identification has been gently hand stamped for reassembly:

I think I'm going to tackle the head first since I'll have to save my pennies for a new set of pre-cups and valve guides. Stay tuned for the next phase of the process!

Machine Work!

 

[roscoFJ73]

Is this engine going to have a turbo?

 

[lelandEOD]

Is this engine going to have a turbo?

My plan was to add a low-performance turbo for high altitude service, but since I'm going to be replacing one of the pistons anyway, I'm open to suggestions on what upgrades, if any, would be prudent. Ceramic pistons? Good idea or overkill?

I want to have the block drilled and tapped for a turbo support pedestal, oil supply, and drain lines. I'll need to find some info on where they go and what size holes and/or fittings I'll need.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Engines Australia sell 1HZ turbo pistons, they seem to have a loyal following. It seems they have expanded that side of the business to a section called diesel performance parts.
Performance Engine Parts | Engine Australia Diesel Motor Parts, Cylinder Head, Diesel Engine Piston, Engine Filters, Australia

Ive often wondered if dropping the compression ratio to the same as a 1HD T would make much difference.

 

[lelandEOD]

From what I read in the archives, it seems that few recommend really boosting and fueling a 1HZ without dropping the compression.

 

[mudgudgeon]

My plan was to add a low-performance turbo for high altitude service, but since I'm going to be replacing one of the pistons anyway, I'm open to suggestions on what upgrades, if any, would be prudent. Ceramic pistons? Good idea or overkill?


I want to have the block drilled and tapped for a turbo support pedestal, oil supply, and drain lines. I'll need to find some info on where they go and what size holes and/or fittings I'll need.

1HZ turbo upgrade pistons would be a good insurance policy. Beefier build, and they use the same, larger gudgeon pins that 1HD-T used. I think that also means you need to swap to 1HD-T conrods but I can't remember.

If you lowered compression, you're going to be committed to a turbo from the get go IMO.

Ceramic coating is a waste IMO. A diesel won't see combustion temps as high as you do in a gas engine, plus HZ/HD-T have oil squirters that spray a stream of oil into the underside of the pistons to keep the piston crown cool.

I think if your going to go down that road, seriously weigh up building the engine up to 1HD-T spec. If you're changing pistons, conrods, rebuilding a head, you're probably closer to 90% of the $$ you'd have in cloning a 1HD-T.
New 1HD-T rods, pistons, head, exhaust manifold, turbo and fuel pump and you've got the real deal. Everything else is the same.
If your HZ cam is good, keep it for longer valve opening duration

 

[roscoFJ73]

From what I read in the archives, it seems that few recommend really boosting and fueling a 1HZ without dropping the compression.

For more power or longevity?
The closer is it to 1HD T specs, the longer it will last. But of course we are talking more money

 

[lelandEOD]

My goal for this engine will always be longevity over performance.

I’m going to start with all of the services and parts necessary just to rebuild the 1HZ back to as close to a new state as possible. Once I’m there, I’ll see how my patience-meter and wallet are feeling and decide whether I’m going to go beyond that.

 

[lelandEOD]

Pre-Cups...

 

[lelandEOD]

Ok, so after a very lengthy delay, I'm finally making some progress on this turbo 1HZ rebuild. Since a bottom-to-top rebuild was not initially anticipated, and because I've blown my original project budget by about 800%, it has taken me about 9 months to reach the reassembly stage.

Quick synopsis:
-The primary objective is a reliable and simple 1HZ to repower my FJ40.
-This engine will be mated to a H55, split case, and FF BJ70 rear axle.
-I will be wiring the cowl harness to accept the needed circuits to use the Toyota glow timer.
-Since I live next to the high sierras, I decided a stock turbo would help with cooler combustion. I've sourced a rebuildable CT26 core and the necessary bits to convert the 1HZ to a 1HDT turbo setup.

aaaaand... since I go retarded for new parts, I sourced a short list of bare essentials:

• Toyota Pre-combustion chambers
• Toyota Intake and exhaust valve guide set
• Toyota intake and exhaust valve set
• Toyota Valve spring set
• Toyota Engine gasket kit
• Toyota Crankshaft thrust bearing
• Toyota #1 Cam bearing set
• Toyota Cam thrust bearing
• Toyota Cylinder head orifice
• Toyota Bell housing end plate (old one was rusty)
• Toyota Injection nozzle seats
• Toyota Oil pump pressure relief valve and spring
• Toyota Injection pump radial ball bearing
• Toyota Timing idler gear
• Toyota Timing idler gear thrust washer
• Toyota Timing idler gear shaft
• Set of Toyota exhaust manifold studs and bolts
• Toyota Exhaust manifold outlet studs
• Toyota Crankshaft main bearing set, .25mm O/S
• Toyota Rod bearing set, .25mm O/S
• Toyota Oil and fuel filters
• Toyota Timing belt
• Toyota Timing belt idler kit
• Toyota Belt tensioner spring
• Toyota Water pump
• Toyota Thermostat
• Toyota Alternator belt set
• Toyota Power steering pump seal kit
• Toyota Power steering pump reservoir
• Toyota Vacuum pump seals and bearing
• Toyota Flywheel bolt set
• Toyota Connecting rod bolt set
• Toyota Cylinder head bolt set
• Toyota Crankshaft bearing cap bolt set
• Toyota Thermostat gasket
• Toyota Injector nozzle seat gaskets
• Toyota Power steering shaft bearing
• Toyota Alternator bracket
• Toyota injector leakage pipe
• Toyota #1 camshaft pulley
• Toyota #2 camshaft pulley
• Toyota Steering vane pump drive gear
• Toyota Oil pump drive gear
• Toyota Injection pump drive gear
• Toyota Crank shaft drive gear
• Toyota Timing belt cover
• Toyota AC V-belt
• Toyota glow plug connector
• Toyota glow plug grommets
• Toyota IP fuel pipe
• Toyota fuel sedimenter switch
• Toyota A/C compressor belt
• Toyota oil pan drain nut
• Toyota engine block water drain cock
• Toyota injector nozzle seats
• Toyota oil pump pressure relieve valve
• Toyota oil pump pressure relief valve spring
• Toyota radiator inlet hose
• Toyota radiator outlet hose
• Toyota heater inlet pipe
• Toyota glow plug resister insulator
• Toyota glow plug resister spacer
• Toyota clutch slave piston rod

Somewhere around here I said, "**** it" and ordered some goodies from Engine Australia:

• EA Turbo piston set, .50mm O/S
• EA Piston ring set, .50mm O/S
• EA Turbo connecting rod set
• EA #5 Head gasket

As well as the needed stuff to fit the CT26 turbo:

• Toyota Turbocharger stay
• Toyota Water bypass pipe no. 1
• Toyota Pipe sub-assembly turbo water, no. 2
• Toyota Turbo oil supply pipe
• Toyota Turbo water supply pipe
• Toyota Turbo oil union bolt
• Toyota Turbo water pipe, No. 1
• Toyota Turbo oil return pipe block fitting
• Toyota Turbo oil return tube
• Toyota Turbo air cleaner lid
• Toyota Turbo IP boost compensator
• Toyota turbo forward exhaust manifold
• Toyota Turbo oil inlet gaskets, 2ea
• Toyota Turbo water gaskets, 2ea
• Toyota Exhaust manifold collar
• Toyota Exhaust manifold joint rings
• Toyota Turbo turbine outlet gasket
• Toyota Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket
• Toyota Turbo oil inlet to block bolt
• Toyota Turbo turbine to outlet nuts
• Toyota compressor V-Bands and nuts
• Toyota turbo bearing housing plate
• Toyota turbo crossover intake pipe

Yay. And that is why it's taken 9 months.

 

[lelandEOD]

My crank was on the ragged edge of acceptable oil clearance so we ended up grinding it .25mm under. Similarly, the bores were a little tapered so we went .50mm over. I ordered pre-topped turbo pistons and had them ceramic/moly coated by Swaintech. Since it wasn't that much more, I had the bearings moly coated as well. I have no idea if doing so was worthwhile, but I figured it couldn't hurt.

This engine is getting all new bolts... mains, rods, head bolts, etc. The FSM says the stretch bolts can be reused if they spec out, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. I saved the original bolts from the teardown just to use for the initial assembly to check for oil clearances:

Oil clearances were spot on on all journals which was an enormous relief.

 

[lelandEOD]

As mentioned in my other thread, I really wanted the outward appearance to look like a factory job so I had a machinist drill the block and cradle to accept 1HDT turbo connections.

 

[lelandEOD]

Unfortunately, I didn't notice a boo-boo until I got everything home and unwrapped. There was a miscommunication at the machine shop because they clearly forgot to reinstall all the core plugs. So, I'll have to take it back down when I drop off the rotating parts for dynamic balancing.

The head is gorgeous...

 

[lelandEOD]

I'm getting the work area prepped for assembly.

Thank goodness for workshop manuals!

 

[lelandEOD]

A little more work today.

I got the rod bearing oil clearances checked with plastigauge; everything looked good.

I also checked the crank and rod thrust clearances; all good there as well.

The goal of today was to temporarily install the piston/rod assemblies to check the piston protrusion. I was really sweating this as I didn't really know how much material was going to be removed from the block when I ordered the pistons. I bought the "pre-topped" pistons from EA which I believe have ~.005" removed from the crown. The machinist removed about ~.007" from the block when he decked it. The ceramic coating probably added a bit of thickness as well but all six came in well under the maximum protrusion for the #5 head gasket. Whew.