Builds 1HZ Rebuild Project (1 Viewer)

[lelandEOD]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I’m inching closer to completion. I got the tail pipe end finished up and tacked together.

Lile everything else, it’s a tight squeeze to fit a 3” pipe between the shackle and tire. I’m hoping I’ve left enough room to account for flex.

Now I’m spending several hours going round and round my pie cuts. I’m probably going to run out of shielding gas before I can get it done but here is a shot of the complete assembly:

MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone!!!!!!

 

[lelandEOD]

...Got her fired up last night; I enlisted the help of my 8 year old to get the job done. Took about 10 minutes to bleed the injectors and work the last residual air from the lines. It ran pretty rough for about a minute. I opened the garage doors to clear it out and this is the second attempt:

 

[Nostradamus]

That is simply amazing. Well done!!!

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Nice work!

 

[Gengis]

Are the suspention U bolts due for a trim??
G

 

[lelandEOD]

That was just how they came; definitely trimmed now.
And the rear axle is done and the brakes are plumbed. Ready to go for a test drive.

 

[tmarx]

Very nice work !

 

[gifu]

question: who did the machine work for your 1HZ? I live in Truckee and have a seized 1HDFT... looking for a machine shop to help out with the rebuild. Thanks! ~Brian

 

[lelandEOD]

question: who did the machine work for your 1HZ? I live in Truckee and have a seized 1HDFT... looking for a machine shop to help out with the rebuild. Thanks! ~Brian

Call Chris at Douglas Machine in Gardnerville, NV. They are the ONLY shop I’d let touch a Land Cruiser engine, let alone a Toyota Diesel.
Reach out to me by PM if you have any other questions!

 

[Loober]

@lelandEOD where did you source those reverse U bolt brackets?

 

[lelandEOD]

@lelandEOD where did you source those reverse U bolt brackets?

They are from 4+ Products.

 

[mderrick]

Great Build.

 

[lelandEOD]

Thank you!

 

[mudgudgeon]

Nice work. Just re read this thread. Is this thing in action yet?

 

[Splangy]

Do you have pics of what you did for the engine mounts?

 

[lelandEOD]

Sorry... I didn't see the reply for some reason. I do but you'll have to send me a PM so I can remember to dig them out of my file folder when I've got some time.

 

[SKULLYOTA]

cool build! how does it drive?

 

[lelandEOD]

Overall, drivability is very good. However there is one key issue I’m continuing to work through. For starters, I’ve been fighting water temperature problems almost since almost day one. During the summer months, I have problems keeping my water temperature under 215° when I’m climbing long steep grades at highway speeds. On the freeway, my RPMs are at about 3000-3,200 which makes the EGT’s quickly climb to 950°+. At this point, the coolant system in the little 40-series is unable to shed the cylinder head heat quick enough and I can watch water temps climb within a matter of minutes.

I’ve got the following ideas on the drawing board which I hope will make improvements:

-Replace the Chinese champion aluminum radiator with a quality Ron Davis unit.

-Swap to waterless coolant

-Install an auxiliary oil cooler with Spal fan to help shed latent heat from the oil supply. (I’ve got most of the components sitting on the shelf to make this happen but have been unable to find an oil filter sandwich plate with built-in thermostat that will fit the 24 mm oil filter housing. Safari makes one with their auxiliary oil cooler kit but they don’t appear to sell it as a separate item as my emails have gone unanswered).


-Swap the CT 26 for a Gturbo Grunter in the hopes that it, coupled with taller gears, will allow me to build boost/power lower in the RPM range and keep me from winding up to 3000 RPM (I’ve got the IP detuned to the point where it’s almost undrivable off boost [anything below 2,500rpm]).

-I’m also toying with the idea of installing a front mounted A2A intercooler since I’ve ruled out a top mounted A2A or W2A system for various reasons. However, cramming a 2 1/2 inch intercooler core between the bib, AC condenser, and radiator then routing the plumbing to avoid my AC components and dual batteries will be very tricky. (…Not a lot of room to work with.)

-If none of the above pan out, I will probably settle for some sort of water injection cooling which I’m hoping to avoid.

Overall the conversion really puts a smile on my face and I would probably do it all over again… Although I’d look for a DI engine rather than the IDI motor I found.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

If you're only starting to get boost at 2500 rpm, the turbo isn't sized correctly. With a grunter extreme (old one) we could easily make 20+ psi at 1600 rpm, 4th gear on the dyno brake.

 

[SKULLYOTA]

I'm upgrading the cooling system and dealing with EGT's on my 1HZ too. I think a high quality, as big as you can fit radiator is a good idea. I ordered one from Terrain Tamer. supposedly really good units.

What fan clutch are you using? I can't find the thread where i found this info now, but the hubs were colored differently, blue green or red, dependent on market climate apparently. My JDM 1HZ had the green colored hub for moderate climate, but I ordered the red hub one (16210-17070) which is apparently for hot climates. might help you out? I assume you have a new thermostat, mine was sticking and causing overheating even though I was driving at near freezing outside temps.