1HZ Rebuild Project

lelandEOD

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I'm now in a holding pattern until my clutch kit arrives. Then, the short block will get disassembled once more so I can get all the rotating mass balanced.

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lelandEOD

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Since I'm waiting for the parts to come back from balancing, I've been entertaining myself in other ways... like with a can of spray paint!

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I put the head on temporarily for paint and to check general fit of the turbo bits...

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lelandEOD

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So far so good. Everything lines up perfectly.

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It'll be a tight fit. I'm interested to see if I'm going to be able to squeeze the exhaust inside the frame rail or if more drastic measures will be required.
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The support bracket and oil supply and return lines matched up perfectly.
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SNLC

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I recently tore down a 1PZ, replaced the oil cooler. Had the same large hole to the right of the cooler cavity. I was a little worried it wasn’t supposed to be there. It’s a strange rough casting and doesn’t seem needed the way it is designed to flow.

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I was a little concerned because this 1PZ likely had water in it for a lot of years. Thought maybe it had corroded out here.

Here it is on the 1PZ.

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Good to see it is part of the casting from Toyota. Still strange to me though.

Cheers
 
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Victoria, BC
I recently tore down a 1PZ, replaced the oil cooler. Had the same large hole to the right of the cooler cavity. I was a little worried it wasn’t supposed to be there. It’s a strange rough casting and doesn’t seem needed the way it is designed to flow.

View attachment 1952306


I was a little concerned because this 1PZ likely had water in it for a lot of years. Thought maybe it had corroded out here.

Here it is on the 1PZ.

View attachment 1952311


Good to see it is part of the casting from Toyota. Still strange to me though.

Cheers
My 1hdt was exactly the same. I too shared your concern lol
 

lelandEOD

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Aug 21, 2012
Messages
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I recently tore down a 1PZ, replaced the oil cooler. Had the same large hole to the right of the cooler cavity. I was a little worried it wasn’t supposed to be there. It’s a strange rough casting and doesn’t seem needed the way it is designed to flow.

View attachment 1952306


I was a little concerned because this 1PZ likely had water in it for a lot of years. Thought maybe it had corroded out here.

Here it is on the 1PZ.

View attachment 1952311


Good to see it is part of the casting from Toyota. Still strange to me though.

Cheers
Yup.
Just like you guys, I freaked out when I first saw that hole. A quick Google search revealed several other motors with the same defect so I figured I was ok.
 

lelandEOD

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Ok, so tonight the bottom end got disassembled and reassembled **hopefully** for the last time. I got the rotating parts back from the shop. They found that the front of the crank was out 4 grams but the back (flywheel and clutch plate) were out 16 grams. The shop balanced everything and peened index marks to ease reassembly.

I took my time and re-read the FSM at every step. I double checked that all the passage ways and galleys were clean of debris and installed the core plugs.

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The crank got gently set in a good layer of Royal Purple assembly lube:
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Crank thrust bearings were installed...
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lelandEOD

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The bearing cap was cleaned and a line of FIPG was applied:
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New main bearing bolts as well as these M12 bearing cap bolts were installed and torqued up, according to the FSM.
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lelandEOD

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I made double-sure to place the orifice in the cavity in the block before installing the head gasket:
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The piston assemblies were installed in much the same manner as before...
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Everything was cleaned, then cleaned again, and finally cleaned thoroughly prior to install. I used a couple 1/4" wooden dowels laid across the block at the front and rear to ease the install of the head. Doing so kept me from dropping, gouging, or scratching the head gasket while trying to maneuver the head into place. Then I simply lifted one end at a time, removed the dowel, and set the head on the locating pins.

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That's about it for the night. The torquing sequence of the head bolts is a little convoluted so I've decided to wait for the morning when I'm fresh. I did use a sharpie marker and numbered the bolt heads to correspond with the tightening sequence listed in the FSM.

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More tomorrow.
Cheers, fellas!
 
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lelandEOD

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Thanks!

This week was a flurry of activity as the longblock came together. Things are slowing down now as I run out of smaller jobs to finish off before stopping to wait for more parts/services.
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This is about as far as I can take the timing gears until I get the injection pump rebuilt. I'm going to temporarily put the timing case cover on and bolt some of the ancillaries in place so that I can at least use the engine for mockup purposes in the engine bay. I'll continue to update the build of the engine as I make more progress.
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lelandEOD

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Also, on a side note... as you can see from the teardown photos on page 1/2, this motor was rode hard and put away wet. And, as you might imagine, the transmission was much the same. I originally thought I'd be able to swap out a couple synchro rings and call it good, but once I got it apart and took a hard look at everything, it needed a lot more love.

Honestly, I should have just bought a new H55 from Toyota but at this point I'm committed so this box will be getting new Toyota synchros on all gears, a new 3rd gear synchro hub and slider, as well as a new first, second, and third gear. I got the rebuild kit from Kurt at @cruiseroutfit and he was super helpful on the phone as we tried to nail down which kit was appropriate for my mine truck application.

Speaking of helpfulness, I should also give a shoutout to @orangefj45. Every last part of this project is really Georg's fault as he was the one who told me about the mine truck left sitting in his storage yard to begin with. :rofl: I'll have to repay his kindness by having him install a set of 4:1 gears in the transfer case at some point.

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