1HZ install into a 1978 FJ40

[crushers]

the original rad protector was okay and has served hundreds of thousands of 40s over the decades but more armour was suggested and accepted for this build.
the actual dimensions are identical to the original except this expanded steal is twice as thick, twice the resitance to sticks, twigs, stones. all that is getting through this is air.
a custom rad protector mounted to the bib.
the test fit to the rad and AC for clearence.
starting on the upper rad protector.

that is it for now guys.
cheers and thanks for following along.

 

[swamprunner]

have you got the hoses for the radiator yet? If you do and they are a standard hose from somewhere...icould I get the part numbers. I'm beging to work on my 45 with the 1hz and this is one of the things I have to button up. I've rummaged around all the local part stores but haven't found anything I like yet.

I still need to get the motor wiring done some I'm looking forward to seeing how you wire yours.

One more question...just out of curiousity why did you choose fiberglass over aluminum?

Glad to see your moving at a much swifter pace than me.

 

[arcteryx]

Wayne, just read through the thread. amazing work. This will be a great rig

Couple of questions:
1) Why did you install the engine and drive it across country instead of shipping it
2) Why fiberglass over aluminum (aqualu)? Was this your suggestion or the client's?

And for the owner of this rig, Who is getting this awesome machine? (Wayne, this is for your client; I know you can't disclose who is getting this)

 

[crushers]

gents, i have worked with both Aqualu tubs and the Gozzard tubs.
the Aqualu tub is great for a 3/4 tub bush hog replacement. you can do one in a weekend and drive it on monday to work (long days) but the fit and finish is... sloppy. Aqualu builds a jeep tub that blows their LC tub out of the water for finish and detail.

the Gozzard tub is TOUGH, detail is second to none, quiet and bang for the buck even cheaper than the Aqualu full tub. the Gozzard is way, way better quality.

i recommended it to quite a few customers now and if i have an issue, even the smallest, i can phone Mike and with in 24 hours have a call back and either he explains why something is the way it is or he modifys his product to make the next one work properly. Mike has a ton of attitude and can be quite abrupt but at the same time i like his "no bull****" demeanor since i am quite the same way.

i have the hose part numbers still on the hoses. if i remember i will post them up tomorrow.

why did i install the engine in Calgary and drive it down to Ontario? wicked question. first off, i had an excellent fabrication shop that allowed me to go there and make up my custom parts using their equipment and advice. secondly, it saved me shipping the truck, the engine down seperately. third, it allowed me to test the install for shortcomings and fuel milage (although there are some that refuse to beleive i could turn in the mileage i did towing over 3400 km across Canada and the US.)
also, my shop down here was not setup and i had another truck to complete before i could tackle this one. to have the drivetrain install, tested and proven takes a lot of worry out of the delivery in a couple months for his drive back across the US.

the wiring is a cake walk, a two banana. convert it over to 12V if it isn't already and away you go. swap the sensors over from your 2F. you will have to extend some of the feeds but no biggie. i HATE wiring and was able to pull it off with no issues.

cheers and thanks for following along. the compliments sure add to the joy i am having with this build.

 

[crushers]

lower rad hose goodyear 61181
upper rad hose goodyear 60855

HTHs

cheers

 

[swamprunner]

wayne
thanks for the numbers...hopefully the local napa can cross the numbers.

the wiring...I also hate it
I've already converted the starter and alternater over...I don't think I need to do anything else?
The motor came from james at cruiserparts.net. When wiring it he recommend using a step up converter to give the fuel cut off solenoid 24volts. Do you have any thoughts on that?

When I get down to it I might have to consult you to figure out what wires go where from the motor. I have no diagram to go off off. I understand the sensor stuff but I have a huge wiring harness from the motor and not much idea as to where everything goes. I'm assuming I don't need alot of the wires b/c it came out of a late model rig with lots of electronics

I'll be sure to start a thread on my build and post some pics up when can devote all of my time to it.

As for the fiberglass...I was just curious b/c ever glass cruiser I've ever seen in person leaves alot to be desired. I do alot of fiberglass work with boats and surboards and until now have thought thats where it should stay.
The aqualu body thats on my 45 is pretty tight. I haven't put the doors on yet so hopefully they will follow suit with the rest of the truck.

 

[crushers]

the Mallot stuff is s***. the aqualu, Gozzard and Mallot is all i have seen in person. Gozzard is WAY above the rest.

you need:
starter
alternator
fuel cut off (for some reason i am thinking i ran 12V to the cut off and it worked or maybe i changed it out for a 12V, can't remember)
water sensor
oil pressure
12V manual glow system

i think that is it. you can literally run these engines off just the fuel shut off...

not sure what the aqualu 45 tub looks like but the 40 series has no 22.5 degree shanfer to the hard top lip, doors never seemed to look right with that tub. hard top never fit the way it should...

i am not saying their tubs are not adaquate for some but they are too inferior for my customer's builds.

 

[rutbeer]

Wayne, I noticed you are using a 60 series steering u-joint at the box. If you swap this out for about an 87 4-runner shaft, the splines are the same the but u-joint is a smaller diameter. I wish I remembered the exact year, because at some point Toyota started using crappy stamped yokes, but the one I found was cast like the 60 series...just narrower.

 

[crushers]

Rutbeer,
thanks for the advice. i will be taking more pics of the box today and uploading them. the ujoint is part of the problem, the box is the other.
a smaller ujoint would make that part much easier. the Ujoint, shock tower clearences are very tight 1/8".

thanks M8

 

[swamprunner]

Wayne,
I believe I have a few 4runner shafts laying around. If you need one its yours.
Matt

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Wayne,
I know that I may be getting ahead of you in the build here but what is your experience wiring up the 1HZ wiring harness to an OEM 40 instrument cluster, or are you planning to go with aftermarket gauges for this build? This looks great BTW, I am definitely stealing the idea of the rad protection.
Thanks, John

 

[rutbeer]

Rutbeer,
thanks for the advice. i will be taking more pics of the box today and uploading them. the ujoint is part of the problem, the box is the other.
a smaller ujoint would make that part much easier. the Ujoint, shock tower clearences are very tight 1/8".

thanks M8

Just looked it up on parts disk....looks like it's a 95 to 97 surf or 4-runner. It also has a rag joint that comes with it and a collapsible steering shaft. What I did was to take that part flip it around so that the rag joint end was at the box and weld the slip yoke from the 60 shaft onto my column. The u-joint end of the 60 will slip right onto the splines of the 4 runner collapsible shaft. That way I clear the shock tower, have a slip (although with rag joint it's not needed) have a collapsing column in case of front impact, and I only had to make one weld. Part number is 45290-35031 or 0.

 

[crushers]

hummm, Rutbeer, can you take a pic of the installation of the steering box? my box input shaft and ujoint coupler goes through the tower...

 

[rutbeer]

bad angle

Here you go. Hard to see the clearance on the tower, but maybe you can see the smaller ujoint here. You still have to cut part of the web out of the shock tower, but not nearly as much as with the larger 60 series u-joint. I bet it cuts a 1/4" off the overall diameter, or more.

 

[crushers]

you installed your box about 3/4" further ahead of where i installed mine.
on mine i shaved the webbing to clear the collar itself, the collar is still the same dimension but the u/joint is smaller.
what did you use to shim the box away from the tower?
what bearing did you use for the firewall support? i still have to install one. i did not have time before the drive down.
i like that shaft, looks good.
tight fit with the rad support bars, eh?
looking good, thanks for posting this up.

 

[rutbeer]

There is no shim between the box and the frame, but the holes are compression sleeved and there is a reinforcing plate on the back side that ties into the crossmember as well. I had to shift the radiator over to the passenger side just a bit to clear everything. The steering column itself has the tap in bearing that fits up inside the original column. I think I got that from cruiser outfitters. Love that design over the pillow block style. Clean, cheap, and works very well.

 

[crushers]

excellent, i will check with cruiser outfitters for the tap in bearing.

no shim and you cleared the tower... interesting. i used a 6 dgree shim and just cleared the tower, must be the location of the box. that would also explaing why the 4runner u/joint made a difference in your setup.

different ideas same results, cool.

 

[hzj76niger]

Hello, I am new to ih8mud but not a new Cruiser owner, about 5 months ago I imported a 1999 hzj76 RHD with a 1hz na engine from Japan. I am looking for factory service manuels for it or the engine it self. I would also like to find out what t-case and transmission I have. Any help would be great. By the way looks like a fun project. Soon I will be posting some pictures of my machine. I am located in Niger West Africa but from Calgary AB.

 

[tmarx]

How about an update, Wayne ?

 

[crushers]

since you asked...

not much this past week or so, the press went south so a bit of frustration resulted.

now, where did i leave off? oh yah, the rad protectors...
here we go:
since the fenders rely on the running board for support and now we have abolished the factory idea we needed to stiffen that corner between the fender and the tub.
first a basic step
then the expanded steel
then the finished product