1HZ install into a 1978 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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re-enforcement of the verticle
(there is more but i forgot to take pics)
test fit with battery.
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next is the air cleaner.
i wanted the filter restriction sensor in case the owner will be driving in severe dusty conditions (or if he dunks the engine under water)
i had a top off a ex-mine truck with the sensor
i wanted the factory HDT air box top for the sharp 90 degree bend and the crankcase ventilation line to the air box.
so a bit of drilling was called for.

the HDT cover

the exmine cover

the pieces salvaged from the mine cover
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first things first, cut off the unwanted air box mounts.
plug weld the holes
postion the new mounts...
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i also wanted the tab for the secondary fuse panel, this is a factory option on the JDM 70 series and a real good idea.
the finished air box canister.

now on to the test fit location...
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clearence is tight so the position had to allow for the AC pump, AC lines, turbo outlet and inlet, intercooler line routing, water lines and battery.

once the location was selected then the mounts had to be welded into the skirt, then tapped, then mounted

after the top two mounts are located then the bottom support had to be made and located as well...
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next on the agenda was the AC line routing and cutting.
it is tight around the compressor so accuracy, test fit, check again was required.

all is good and this side is coming to a close.

time to contact Mike for the custom snorkle...

that is it for today...
thanks for checking in
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Very impressed with the planning and detail that goes into making this truck functionally reliable :clap:
 
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turbo oil return line.
short and simple
make sure the oil return is located above the level of the oil in the pan.
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Many thanks Wayne,
I was under the Troopy the other night and realised mine is too long so the oil is not getting as direct a route as it should! Yeah, I took a 1HZ sump the other day that was lying around and measured litre by litre to get an idea of levels. It's just great all the over engineered stuff and the way you plan things like the shackle protector. I also like how you have routed the oil feed round behind the engine unless I am mistaken - not entirely happy with mine so might well change it.
 
i guess i missed this post, sorry. (my browser has been shutting down on its own lately and then i loose my notices)
the Ranchos have the proper travel where as the kit supplied OME are too short for my liking. a shock should NOT double as extension restrictor.
they are also adjustable, true you adjust them usually only once but a nice feature to have.
timing for completion should be 4-6 weeks, hopefully sooner.
the owner would like the factory steelies with 33-34" skinnies, probably street tires with a set of off road tires mounted on rims for when the unit is heading for the outback.

so i have to ask how the rancho's that you have choosen compare to an OME? What is the timing for completion of the project? what kind of rims and rubber are you going to finish it off with?
 
a couple more of the reinforcement of the battery stand...

We tried a single post battery tray once, it vibrated quite a bit, so we ran another leg off the post.

Off the turbo it looks like you could of used a 22degree fitting to better line up the drain line?

Looking good tho.......


Rob
 
i checked high and low for a 1/2" 45 degree threaded outlet with no luck...

the battery tray is fixed front and back to the frame...
once the stand is mounted to the frame we will check for movement and modify as required...thanks
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one of the plans was to make a locking dash box similar to the steel one sold by a few vendors but that looked factory.
the mock up plug to make the molds from.
notice the drop in the center, this coupled with the original shape of the dash will make for decent storage.
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next on the agenda was the hood scoop, originally it was going to be under the hood with a reworked front hood edge with a plenium to the intercooler but with the 1HZ install the rad was moved over 2" to the right hand side thus preventing that idea.
now it will be a top mount with a plenium under to direct the flow of air through the top mount intercooler.
i didn't want to loose the windshield folding flat feature of the 40 series so it would have to be low profile and also the windshield latch down towers are to be retained.
a piece of foam to test my idea...
not the tolerences to the flat windshield. 1 3/4" max in height, wider at the front and narrow at the back to force the air flow even at slower street speeds...
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now there was a need to locate the sub woofers and the 4 X 6.5" speakers.
the 2 X 4" long throw subs will be mounted on the rear hoop and 2 X 6.5" speakers will be mounted on the center hoop. the last 2 X 6.5" speakers will be mounted in the front kick panels. the amp in the dash and the deck in the tuffy box.
this is a cardboard mock up of the mounts for the speakers. the boxes will be made from 5/8" MDF and the mounting tabs will be welded to the roll bar out of 3/16" steel flat bar.
i also didn't want to block the windows any more than absolutely nessesary...
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mounting of the rear fiberglass doors.
the fitting of the fiberglass pieces take the most time. Gozzard does a fantastic job but when ever there are multipul peices being assembled the fitment has to be tried and tried and tried to get right.
once you have them temporarily in place then you mark the holes to be drilled.
drill with the right size bit
insert the nutzerts
install the doors.

sounds easy but it takes hours. i never took pics of the windshield frame being installed. it is one of the most difficult pieces to fit.

starting to look more like a cruiser.
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