1HZ install into a 1978 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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well, well, seems we have a problem.
in the stock set up the bushing fits through the hole in the 'pin' of the fixed end but the after market 40 series Dakar set has the over sized bushing so you can not shove it through once the spring is in, you can not cut it down to fit the hole or it is too small for the spring eye. if you just shove it in then you damage the bushing...
what to do?
well you use 2 thin scrapers or puddy knifes as a guide. now normally you get it all set up and lower the truck and the weight of the body pushes the spring home but i did not have that luxury so i used ratchet strap to put pressure on the spring.
1978 HJZ40 build 175.webp
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1978 HJZ40 build 178.webp
 
you need a scraper wide enough to cover the hole otherwise the bushing catches on the rim of the hole and gets damaged and is a PITA to get back to the correct side.

repeat 4 times for each spring
1978 HJZ40 build 185.webp
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i have never taken a course in Mechanics...
i guess i am a Specialist. i have torn down and worked on more cruisers than i can remember, i have done decades of research on Cruisers but most of all i just REALLY enjoy Cruisers and when you love something then you learn to understand how and why it works.

so

i guess i am just a lucky hobby wrencher that makes a very small living off a hobby.

Nice progress Wayne... this will turn out really well..

Do you mind if I ask ? Are you a proffesional mechanic/fabricator? Or just an extremely well equipped hobby-wrencher? (and I mean "well equipped" in the material way:lol:)
 
since the measurments are cruicial i felt pics of the tape would work well

distance from the front is from the INSIDE lip of the front cross member


the cross member is a modified BJ74 tranny mount
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1978 HJZ40 build 208.webp
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distance from the front spring fixed end back side of the plate
this is the RHD side
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distance from the front spring fixed end back side of the plate
this is the LH side
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okay, so where you locate the holes for mounting the cross member to the mounting flanges (pics later) is not of that great importance but i wanted them as close to center of the frame as possible since i want to install a "rock shield" to the frame over the bolts.
the mounting flange is welded to the frame so if the bolts get damaged you are FUBAR, preventitve maintainence is important.
the over all length is shown but the frame runs at an angle so make sure you mark it for cutting with it sitting on the frame.
1978 HJZ40 build 221.webp
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this is the completed tranny cross member

REMEMBER THE CROSS MEMBER IS NOT A STRAIGHT 90 AT THE ENDS.
1978 HJZ40 build 220.webp
 
for you guys that thought i was covering up rust holes with these plates...
wrong
they are the fabricated tranny mounts.
to get these to work:
take a piece of flat 1/4" by 7" by 7" and bend a 2" lip
by now of course you have the crossmember marked and cut to the proper angle, right?
so bolt these mounts to the cross member and install on the tranny. raise the tranny to the proper height i.e. where it fits properly aligning the engine and tack weld the mounts to the frame.

<this will make much more sense once i get to the engine reinstall...>
1978 HJZ40 build 229.webp
1978 HJZ40 build 230.webp
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so my lovely wife decided to share her head cold and aching joints with me...
no wrenching for a while. i can barely concentrate enough to post this updates.

anywho, i decided to do some research into SS brake and fuel lines since the time has come.
of course it is a good idea to upgrade the lines to Stainless Steel... or is it?
of course we all have seen the cool extended braided SS covered longer brake flex lines on the lifted trucks. I had heard stories favouring and rejecting this procedure. time to do some personal research..
http://www.classictube.com/news.asp
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Brake_Lines
(and many others)
type in SS brake line and it is interesting what comes up:
there are really 3 classifications for SS brake lines, DOT approved, non-DOT approved and non-conforming. the non-DOT approved just means that the brake manufacturer has built the brake line to DOT specifications but never bothered to submit for approval.
the SS flex line has a Teflon lining instead of rubber which does not bulge like rubber brake line does... good thing, right? well, not exactly. with rubber you can see the line bulging. if failure is imminent then the budge will show itself during your twice yearly examination (you do complete a spring and fall inspection of your truck, right?).
next, a rubber flex line can develop a pin hole leak and although still dangerous is not like the SS where the Teflon actually brakes off and dumps all the fluid in one panic stop.
add to this the problem of dirt, I.e. mud, getting between the Teflon and the SS braiding chaffing the Teflon and ending up with a rupture.
also SS flex does not flex/stretch the way the rubber hose can so if it gets snagged by a roaming branch, the branch can actually bust the crimp and good bye braking.
SS flex was made for the racing industry. it is usual for the racing enviroment to replace the line every other race.
for the highway, it was to be replaced every year to two and not designed for muddy environments. HEY! that is most of us!
if you have SS flex lines then you need to be religious about inspecting them for pinching, tears in the SS, wearing of the SS and REPLACE them every 2 years at the outside...

okay, so I am not going to be installing them on this ride.

now, what about SS fixed lines. rumour has it SS are prone to leakage and do not flare well..
well, back to the personal research.
lookie here, SS does not flare well... at 45 degrees anyway. you need to restrict the flaring to 37 degrees... and that means all new fittings are needed to work properly. humm, not good for my application.

but for fun what about the leakage?
well, it turns out that when installing ANY brake line onto a used item (coupler, brake master, flex line) you should tighten, loosen and tighten a few times to make sure the coupling can seat properly.

Okay, so it is back to the rubber extended brake lines and the old style steel brake and fuel lines...
 
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Thanks Cody, i sure hope so...
the next step is fun, then some custom work and on to the body...

cheers M8
 
well, i am glad someone is gleaning some info from this thread...

cheers M8
 

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