1HZ install into a 1978 FJ40

[crushers]

Alan,
one of the nice things about the 1HZ swap is you use the gasser rad...

Rosco, it was a 24V that i switched over to 12V electrics.

thanks for the comments guys...

 

[crushers]

ooops found another folder of shots...

lets carry on...

this is in Ontario now... the truck ran perfect for the drive down and averaged 27.9 mpg pulling 3000 lbs at 55 mph. we had no problems on the hills and could pass when we wanted to UPHILL. i would recommend this swap for anyone that wants the best of all worlds, fuel economy, power, reliability and quiet.

i am jumping past the tear down of the body and we are at the engine again..

i have no comments at this time

 

[crushers]

more of the tear down...

down to a bare frame is the goal, repair any deficencies, sand blast, paint and reassemble...

the goal is to have this truck ready for the customer by the end of the year... LOL!! i can always dream right?

 

[rustyfj40]

I Have my 1982 in the shop now with the 1hz beside it, just taking a look at the frame trying to deside if there is to much rust to mess with this frame. Thanks for all the pictures they will help this build.

 

[crushers]

seriously, the only thing you REALLY need is a solid frame to work with... everything else can be replaced...

this is the reason for my posts, to help the other cruiserheads out...
when i was starting into Cruisers back in 81 there was no one to turn to for help, no internet and the Toyota dealerships were useless... they kept all the info to themselves... now most of them are still useless but because they have no one that works on these...

cheers and best luck in your decision...

 

[tmarx]

I have been waiting for this thread for a while, thanks for posting.

Are you going to re-route the exhaust to the passenger side ?

You do alot in 24 hrs !

 

[crushers]

4 x 6 hour days...
that was up to the exhaust work. (here is the interesting thing i had just finished a 1HZ into a 60 the week before and that was under 30 hours complete)

it is not a big deal to install an engine into a cruiser, common sense and a basic mechanical knowledge is really all you need (oh and a good fab shop to allow you to use their tools)

the exhaust is staying routed the way it is, i did this for a reason. i HATE the way the factory exhaust goes out over the frame and then back in again and across the back. i also am installing a drop box in the back for extra storage so no exhaust will fit through there anyway.

 

[tmarx]

Well although my 3B is in good shape now I have always had it in the back of my mind that someday it won't be the case and as the 3B was never sold in ZA I had reason for concerns in spite of the TOY interchangabillity of parts between variou models.The 1HZ is however freely available so my options have just been increased ...

 

[crushers]

since we are considering powder coating the frame all the holes that need patching, drill and any welding should be completed first.
this is the Man-a-free rear bumper. i have to say i like the build, the strength and the design but the finish, unreal, you can pick the powder coating off with your fingernail. VERY POOR. you can see the finish in the last pic.
this is sad since the last one of these bumpers i installed was very well coated.

 

[crushers]

on to the front bumper.
the old bumper was welded to the frame so care had to be taken to remove without damaging the frame below.

 

[crushers]

clean up of the old welds
the new bumper in its wrapping

 

[crushers]

the new bumper
and the flaws

 

[crushers]

off come the old shocks and although ugly they still worked well

the towers and rear mounts are still in fine shape

 

[crushers]

the idea for the exhaust was to keep it above the bottom of the frame for limited damage potential... and i liked the results...

 

[crushers]

i would like the bend around the driveshaft cleaned up with a mandrel bent peice

i do like the bolt and weld vs the clamp. it makes removal much easier in the case of clutch or tranny work.

the clearence around the driveshaft

at first i was very hesitant of this design since it looked like a section that would be crushed easily but after 2 years on the Tractor and all the crap i put it through there has been no damage what so ever. now i am sold.

the LHD side has a straight through section made perfect for the exhaust work.

 

[crushers]

tight fit
you need to notch the frame where the vacumm shift sits. i will be moving the t/case end over slightly to clear more. it only needs another 3/8" (9mm) to make me comfortable.

 

[crushers]

this is why the original steering box location and the HZ starter can not share the same space. the start over hangs the frame.

one more shot of the tightness of the front LHD corner, clearences are critical.

i installed a diesel 60 fuel seperator as a preventive measure. this truck was used off road so who knew what was hiding in the tank. 3500 km with no issues.

i also installed a 12V feeder pump, i really beleive in these little guys for smoother operations and better response.

 

[crushers]

feeder pump
RHD side engine mount
LHD side engine mount

 

[crushers]

engine mount
re-enforcing plate for steering box
tightness of steering box to tower

 

[crushers]

clearence is critical..
about 2mm from the unjoint to the tower.