After rebuilding the starter my truck still will not start. When I put the key in the start position to crank all I hear is a buzzing and no movement of the starter. What could this be?
1HDT will not start (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Beech4wd
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #2
I do not know if the starter was the problem to begin with, first it was the alternator and now it will not crank up.
It sounds like the starter motor solenoid. Rebuild kits are available, but the 1hdt starter is a prick of a thing to remove - as you've discovered.
Is the battery fully charged?
Good luck.
Is the battery fully charged?
Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #5
I just tried to start it and for some reason it sparked on the positive terminal on the passenger side battery. That has never happened before.
Do you still have the 24v start system?
1hdt is 12 volt.
It'll be something simple - are the battery terminals tight? Is the lead to the starter solenoid tight? Were the starter solenoid contacts cleaned up or replaced? Thee isn't much else in there.
It'll be something simple - are the battery terminals tight? Is the lead to the starter solenoid tight? Were the starter solenoid contacts cleaned up or replaced? Thee isn't much else in there.
- Thread starter
- #8
I do have the 24v starter, yes. Ive tried everything the terminals are tight, the grounds are good, I cleaned off the contact points.
There is a relay that switches the batteries from parallel to series, I think it's called the 24v converter? It's a super common failure point on the 24v start system.
Lots of folks, myself included have done a conversion to a 12v starter.
Lots of folks, myself included have done a conversion to a 12v starter.
sign of a bad connection.
can you please elaborate? go back to the last time it was starting well, then what happened?
- Thread starter
- #13
Yes, the first sign of the alternator going bad was that whenever I was driving the lights on my dash were flickering. I also had to jump my battery a few times when it died. I replaced the alternator and now the car will not start even if I hook the battery up to another car. I tried bump starting the vehicle since it is a manual and when I drive there is no lights on the dash and everything seems to run fine. But when I turn off the car it will not crank over with the starter. Is the 24v converter hard to find? Is that why people do the conversion?
What vehicle is it in ?
- Thread starter
- #15
1991 80 series Land Cruiser 1HDT manual
The converter relay is expensive, and maybe hard to find as well. The main reason I did the 12v conversion was to achieve a true dual battery function. I can have one battery go completely dead and I can still start the cruiser.
At the same time I replaced the starter I redid the charge circuit and added a "smart relay" style system so now I have a "house" battery and a starting battery which are isolated when the engine isn't running.
Easy test and easy fix if this is it
Turn key to on
Run hot wire 10 ga or bigger from batt towards solenoid terminal and just touch terminal to turn motor over and hopefully it starts
If it starts Time has corroded all contacts and you getting like 10 v
To solenoid
If it starts then just get high quality relay like for off road lites
run 10 ga wire to relay from batt
Then run relay output to solenoid
Then run original start wire to relay
And run ground
Should fix it
Common problem on older 80s lc
Test BOTH batteries with multi-meter while someone turns the key to try to start it.
You should see 12v or more at both batteries.
If one battery has a dead cell, jumping from a 12volt vehicle may not be enough current to lock in the 24 volt solenoid and turn the starter over.
You said you get a buzzing noise when you try to start it?
Weak batteries can cause a very rapid clicking as the solenoid tries to engage, then bounce back, engages again
I'm with Mudgeon, it could easily be a single bad battery. You need both batteries in good shape to get enough current to start
thanks, there could be many reasons then. start at the basics. disconnect both batteries charge all the way with charger then test. once you have determined you have charged batteries that pass a test. you'll have to go tough removing checking and cleaning your connections at the batteries and relays. check out the connection that was sparking really good.
