1hdt fuel solenoid (1 Viewer)

[mudgudgeon]

I'm gonna go with electrical issue.

Did you test batteries under load?
Have someone crank the engine, and test voltage on each battery while cranking.
Should not drop below 12 volts.

A starter solenoid will partially engage, but not fully if voltage is low. They can click, click, click in rapid succession without engaging.

Fuel solenoid is smaller, so won't need as much current, but the same could be happening.

Assuming you have used the 12 Volt/24 volt start system?
your theory that one battery being low could effect voltage at the solenoid might be right.
With the 12/24 volt system, the batteries are connected in parallel, so both running 12 Volt systems. On start up, the connection is altered so they get linked in series to provide 24 volts to the starter only.
I'm not certain, but you may see a momentary drop in voltage in the 12 Volt system if the left side battery (primary battery) is weak.

 

[OPUS1]

any updates Franklin?

 

[franklin40]

i have a 12v only system. i replaced my batteries and it would crank beautifully again but no fire. i pulled the top of the fuel system off last night and got the new solenoid installed. just have to put it all back together. maybe tonight. question for you gurus…. should the fuel coming out of the lines at the injector be dripping while it’s cranking or spraying? if this doesn’t work then i wonder if i have a pump issue . one thing at a time i guess. maybe this solenoid swap will work!

of note in the top picture, the thing with the green wire is the solenoid. i couldn’t actually see it when my intake was on and there was not way to access it. i actually had traced some wires to the pump rpm sensor. that’s what i had originally thought was the solenoid. i was wrong.

 

[franklin40]

while it’s down i might pull the injectors and get them rebuild too. they have about 100k km on them i think

 

[franklin40]

i’m now talking to dark fox fuel injection (recommended by @Radd Cruisers). he’s going g to do the injectors for me but also said that the symptoms i’m having are that of a badly worn pump head. guess i’m pulling the pump and sending it in too. i’ll post up what he finds.

 

[bcsteel]

I had my injectors rebuilt by the same fella. 12ht motor. He did a really nice job on them. Put about 15k on them with a wink turbo so far. Turn around was quick as well.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

I had my injectors rebuilt by the same fella. 12ht motor. He did a really nice job on them. Put about 15k on them with a wink turbo so far. Turn around was quick as well.

I got tagged in this post, and it's going to get dragged off topic for a few moments. 12HT stuff... how do you like your Wink turbo? I have a G turbo on my 12HT that I don't like at all, it's too big for the engine and my gearing (3.70s) and won't spool up on the low end, and gets going at about 120 Kph pretty decently. I'm ticking over at about 2050 RPM at 100 Kph. I'm looking for boost building at lower RPM, and then hold decently through to about 2800.

As for the 1HDT fuel issues, you're going down the right diagnostic routes to this. Air leaking is a problem and even a tiny amount of air is going to make it hard to start. The common leaking points are the fuel water sensor o-rings and the primer pump itself. The units with the fuel heater built in have more o-rings and thus more failure points.

The cut off solenoid can be temperamental and intermittent - and can work cold, then fail hot or vice versa.

The 1HZ and 1HDT primer pump housings are not the same, the 1HDT has much larger inlet and outlet pipes. Attachment point bolt patterns change depending on the vehicle it's going into.


~John

 

[franklin40]

thanks guys. i got the injectors out. here a picture left is #1 right #6

can any one tell me if you see any obvious problems. i’m new to injector reading! don’t even know if you can make any calls like you can with spark plugs!

cylinder one and six seem to have excessive oil in them.

now to pull the pump

 

[franklin40]

i have the pump completely free following fsm but my steering wheel puller bolt it too long to pull the pump gear so i’ll have to get a shorter bolt tomorrow. hopefully the installation will go well and everything lines up right!!

 

[sunrk]

The fuel line ID at the tank on 80's was apparently the same (8 mm) both on turbo and non-turbo though I'm open to correction. There are bigger (10 mm ID) fuel primer/filter housings around so maybe later 80's with 1hdt or 1hdft ex factory might have got a bigger fuel feed ID all the way from the tank.

The fuel feed for 1hz and 1hdt (maybe 1hdft too) is purely vacuum from the tank via the filter/primer to the injector pump. I saw someone mentioned the moisture alarm o-ring and fuel filter o-ring as potential air leak points. Also check all the fuel hose attachments and replace any sections of fuel house that look bad with any cracking or wear.

The engine should prime and run even with a bare minimum (the fuel warning light fully on) in the tank, but a very old fuel tank will have a large amount of dirt/dross in the bottom and that might cause the filter to clog up if it gets stirred up and drawn up the line from the tank.

 

[franklin40]

yeah i’ve check those hoses but haven’t don’t the clear to mine thing yet. just haven’t had time. you’d think that a blocked filter or air leaking in would affect the way it ran too. mine has been 100% a hot start issue. once it runs it’s run perfectly, no hesitation, no misfires nothing. it really seems like it’s a fuel delivery issue hence my title asking about the solenoid. we’ll see what dark fox has to say about the pump

 

[bcsteel]

As a side note you can still buy new fuel pick up, return line and sender from Megazip or partsouq. If you require part numbers I can send pictures when I get home from camp.

 

[franklin40]

mine was new about 5 years ago when i installed my webasto.

 

[franklin40]

boxed up to be sent out tomorrow!!

hope i can get it all back together properly

 

[franklin40]

here’s the list of issues found with my components as per dark fox diesel…

“I have dissasembled the pump and found:

-ACSD has been ground down on the ball inside the pump. Probably to mask a failure and disable the unit.

-Supply Pump worn.

-Debris Collected on the hydraulic head filter - dirty fuel /Poor Filter. Confirms the wear in the

injectors we’re worn and poorly assembled as I mentioned earlier.

-it has delivery valves from a later model pump, 93-on. Your pump is the 90-92/08. A bit odd. I dont see an issue in using them however. It is sort of an upgrade.

-looks like they had trouble calibrating the boost fuel as there are many shims under the diaphragm.

So nothing too major. Just a bit of a strange assembly. I would guess the calibration was off, and wasnt running optimally.”

injectors and pump are now rebuilt and should be on their way back in the next few days!

 

[OGBeno]

They are such works of art.

 

[bcsteel]

That’s a pic from the same fella who did mine. Super nice job.

 

[OPUS1]

How many kilometres are on your engine Franklin?

 

[franklin40]

How many kilometres are on your engine Franklin?

about 550 000km.

can anyone tell me if the oil seen on the injectors in post 68 is an issue. the truck did sit for a couple weeks before they were pulled so it could be just some seepage. it’s doesn’t look like it’s burning oil when it’s running. i do have some external oil leaks and a bit of blow by so my oil is often low at the end of an oil change but i never have to actually add any during the 5-7000km between changes

 

[franklin40]

so back at it finally. pump is back in trying to get fuel lines routed. that’s a pain! i had the acsd deleted so just tried to run the lower section of coolant line to the upper one as a bypass loop. the hose is just long enough to get in the way of the injection lines. gotta go buy a longer section of hose tomorrow.

one more night of work on it and i should be able to give it a try!!