Looks like the crank has got a bit of pickup on it. Have a very thorough look around for any indication of blueing or blackening of the main bearing caps. I'd be surprised if you found any going by the state of your conrod bearings but it's not worth assuming. Then check that your crankshaft has end float to ensure the thrust bearings have survived. A dial indicator and reference to the FSM will sort you out here.
Grab yourself some green scotch brite and give that exposed area of #6 journal a rub to see if it cleans up. If it does (and I expect most of it will) then you're in business. I'd use some engine oil with the scotch brite pad as you aren't looking to harm the journal but remove any soft metal that has been transferred. It it cleans up, then onto the next paragraph.
At this point, you still haven't identified the root cause of the run away so I would cut that oil filter open for inspection and straight after that it's time to inspect your turbo. I imagine a turbo shaft failure might be where it started, judging by the symptoms you described. I'd also recommend checking the cam belt to ensure it's failure wasn't the reason behind the engine coming to a halt and removing the valve cover to scout around for anything unusual up top. Once you are satisfied the overhead is sill in tact and replacing the failed turbo will address the root cause then it's time to start the repair.
Then
From that point I would put the old bearings in and caps back on so you can rotate the crank. Then bring each cylinder to bottom dead centre, remove that cap and very gently slid the piston up the bore just enough to allow you to rub the crank. Clean the journal, fit a new bearing and conrod bolts (and tension to spec) one conrod at a time. Be conscious of the orientation of the lube drilling in the crank as you don't want to have debris fall into it whilst you are cleaning.
If you are super tight on cash or time, I've seen far worse shells come from engines that had no issues whatsoever. I don't recommend that you reuse them and I wouldn't if replacing them is a possibility. Clean the crank, lubricate the white metal and crank journal and refit (don't lube the back of the bearing shell or conrod!!) I wouldn't consider reusing those conrod bolts though as I have also seen plenty of diesels suffer conrod bolt failure after excessive RPM.
You'll need to clean the oil from the intake tract, crank the engine over without fuel to ensure it rotates freely and then be ready to physically choke the engine upon restart. Personally I'd remove the crossover pipe from the turbo to inlet for the startup and be ready with a suitably sized piece of timber to block the inlet manifold. Warm it up, watch the gauges, remove the oil filler cap to check for blowby, drive it for a couple of weeks and only then enjoy your glorious victory!!
