1hd-t power steering pump rebuild

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Joined
Sep 28, 2002
Threads
558
Messages
8,123
Location
Kamloops, BC Canada
Website
www.shopraddcruisers.ca
Me and a local cruiser head (Mark) rebuilt a power steering pump after he replaced his BBs.
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Some times niffty Snap On Tool that seem way to expensive work for other applications, this tool is for pulling pilot bearings in tight spots.

Pictures are out of order, first shot is of how easy the pump was to access, already removed in that picture.

Put the pump gear in the vice using wood to protect the gears and removed nut with impact and twelve point socket.


Split the pump by removing three bolts on the housing, one half has a snap ring that is removed to pull the shaft and bearing together.

Pulled seal and replaced.

Replaced housing seal along with a few others, very self explanitory.
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Changed out a seal and it kept leaking, so we changed out the mid housing seal and a few others since they were in the kit.

No bearings replaced.



Well, here's my question...

What was wrong with the pump?
 
parts cost?
 
bump? I need to give my power steering pump (and IP) some love. Planning on having a seal festival.
 
bump? I need to give my power steering pump (and IP) some love. Planning on having a seal festival.

Through toyota I think around 40 dollars, this was done a couple years ago now.

My friend was told they needed a new pump because it was leaking and were charged over 800.00 for a factory new pump plus install:bang::bang:.

His wife had it done without consulting him:doh:.

Rob
 
i assume I can just call ENS and get a "Powersteering Seal Kit" and that 1HZ and 1HDT should use the same part numbers? Or will I need individual part numbers?

sandcruiser, order two kits. i'll pay you back.
 
yuppers
will contact ens later
you still want to do valves, too?
maybe attack that after the piano clutch this weekend?
ENS has valve shims, yes?
 
I have both seal kits and replacement shafts here. The combination is a good idea... I'll reply to some of my massively back-logged emails after I finish my PB & J sandwich lunch.

~John
 
thanks, john
I'm going to go make a pbj now. sounds delicious.
 
I just wonder if you saw any chance to raise the pump pressure . ? mine with 315 aren't that smooth anymore ..
 
Thanks John, I just finished rebuilding my pump last week with you're kit. From memory, these tools were a must:
-FSM
-Big Vice
-2 blocks of soft wood to go inside vice (2x2"'or whatever fits)
- Impact Gun
-17mm 12 Point Impact Socket
-Torque Wrench
-14mm Crowsfoot for torqueing the two pump bolts
-Gear puller*
-Small phillips Screwdriver to pry out oil seal*
-Pick to remove o-rings*
-Descent set of snap-ring pliers for circlip (this will be the biggest PITA if you have cheap-o pliers)
- metric wrenches and sockets

Followed the FSM and all went well, with the right tools.*

Only caution. watch the face of the bearing. It's easy to damage. The kit could include a new*bearing?*
 
Hey guys not to hijack this thread but I was considering getting a rebuild kit myself but maybe it's the pump itself thats pooched. I noticed that the top of my reservoir is sweating really bad to the point where my fuel pump is well lubricated as well as all the other parts on that side of the engine bay. Turns out that if I tie an old sock around the reservoir just below the lip, the top doesn't get oily anymore so I believe it's the seam where the top is melded to the main body of the reservoir. My only concern about this is why am I losing fluid when I haven't over filled it past the max fill line on the dip stick? Could it be that the pump is not pulling fluid fast enough to keep up with the return or something and then overfilling the reservoir to the point where it leaks out the seam?
 
Hey CruiserGord - As you know, the top of the reservoir is clamped to the bottom. If you remove the reservoir and flip it upside down, you will see 5 or 6 tabs folded over on the lip. This is where it's leaking from. The tabs loosen up.

I had the same issue. Just take a pair of vice-grips, channel-locks, etc. and re-clamp the tabs. Put a medium amount of pressure otherwise you'll indent the top of the reservoir. Use some wood, rag, etc so you don't scrape up the tops paint. And no more leak. Have a beer - you just saved $240.

Also, you can check around where the power steering pump mates to the timing gear cover. See if it's leaking there (which mine was)----> new o-ring.

Good time to flush the old oil too (search 80's), then bleed the system Made my steering feel like new - used synth ATF for better winter performance.

Gifu - its in there.
 
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