1HD-T Does not go over 2000rpms (1 Viewer)

[Antony]

As mentioned above a fuel filter is worth replacing but if it was blocked/restricted you would expect white smoke and missing along with you limited revs.

If your intake or exhaust was restricted/egr valve faulting and limiting your revs it would black smoke also.

If your transmission was faulting and limiting engine rpm it would black smoke.

I've seen nozzle holes eroded out so badly they limit power and rpm but again black smoke.

If you disconnect your boost comp and it makes no difference then you need to know if you have boost or if it's trying to build. Flip side to that is it won't if you don't have enough fuel.

There can't be anything interfering with the governor in the pump otherwise it would only pull a specific rpm regardless of gear.

There are pump faults that can cause this specific fault. It would be worth checking the overflow valve for metal particles if all else fails. I see the acsd is still on the pump (water hoses connected to it) does it look in good condition? The arm the pushes the idle up isnt almost touch/touching the alloy housing?

 

[OkiGoose]

As mentioned above a fuel filter is worth replacing but if it was blocked/restricted you would expect white smoke and missing along with you limited revs.

If your intake or exhaust was restricted/egr valve faulting and limiting your revs it would black smoke also.

If your transmission was faulting and limiting engine rpm it would black smoke.

I've seen nozzle holes eroded out so badly they limit power and rpm but again black smoke.

If you disconnect your boost comp and it makes no difference then you need to know if you have boost or if it's trying to build. Flip side to that is it won't if you don't have enough fuel.

There can't be anything interfering with the governor in the pump otherwise it would only pull a specific rpm regardless of gear.

There are pump faults that can cause this specific fault. It would be worth checking the overflow valve for metal particles if all else fails. I see the acsd is still on the pump (water hoses connected to it) does it look in good condition? The arm the pushes the idle up isnt almost touch/touching the alloy housing?

The only time I'm getting white smoke is a little on startup and then it goes away.

Never any black smoke.

When I disconnect the boost comp, is the point to crest a vacuum leak or should I plug the line to isolate the boost comp? I.e. Unattaching the line will create a vacuum leak, is that the point or should I close off that leak?

Ascd looks in good connection besides the hose clamps looking old. Idle up doesn't look to be contacting from what I can see.

I'm going to order a filter, swap it, look over everything again.

kind of concerns me that when I select a gear, it's so slow to accelerate past 2k. Drove my buddies HDJ81 and it seems like light years faster. Makes me wonder about the internal turbo seals blowing by under boost.

 

[Greg_B]

Consider getting that kickdown cable back in place right away, then continue trouble shooting after installed and adjusted. Here is a thread with some pictures and discussions that discusses the kickdown cable: HELP! A442f throttle adjustments

Yours being a 1991 should have the hydraulic A442F. Check you build plate on the firewall and confirm no button on the shifter.

Download the FSM for the transmission as well: Offroad 80's • Technical Pages

hth's
gb

 

[OkiGoose]

I'm ordering the cable tomorrow. Hopefully I can get get it done before I leave island and ship the HDJ stateside. I think it's a good idea to start with see where I'm at. It's the hydraulic. And i downloaded the FSM. Thanks.

 

[IanB]

The other end of the cable attaches inside the transmission, I don't think it's an easy install...so you should look into that a bit further.

If you manually put the trans in 1, and manually upshift, does the engine respond as you'd expect it to? Trying to drive in full auto mode will have the engine loaded up in too tall a gear and may be keeping it from spooling the turbo, my '91 was nearly undriveable when I first got it due to that cable being out of adjustment, being completely missing is not going to help, lol.

 

[Greg_B]

The other end of the cable attaches inside the transmission, I don't think it's an easy install...so you should look into that a bit further.

You do need to remove the pan but I can not recall if you have to lower the VB a bit or if you can rotate the cam and install with the VB in place. When I did the Wholesale VB in the A442F it was all apart anyway. I recall changing a kickdown cable (Throttle Position Cable) in a 12HT/A440F combo but don't recall if I had to lower the VB for it either. The VB was already a Wholesale Automatic.

The FSM for the auto will show you the details so you can visualize it and on the install page already has the VB in place, but not the bolts yet, when it says to install the throttle cable to the cam.

Maybe someone who has been in there recently or done a bunch of them will comment.

Read post #10 in the link above as it talks about the possibility of spinning a plunger if releasing the kickdown to quickly.

Ahhhh, here you go: Things I learned swapping a 94 tranny

and Transmission shift solenoid with a cautionary post above it.

Reading those jogged my memory that it was a complete joy getting the bolt/clip off and on, on the top of the engine/tranny combo in the HJ61 when it is in place. Not sure about this in the 80 series.

Good time to clean the screen and replace the pan gasket.

hth's
gb

 

[OkiGoose]

The other end of the cable attaches inside the transmission, I don't think it's an easy install...so you should look into that a bit further.

If you manually put the trans in 1, and manually upshift, does the engine respond as you'd expect it to? Trying to drive in full auto mode will have the engine loaded up in too tall a gear and may be keeping it from spooling the turbo, my '91 was nearly undriveable when I first got it due to that cable being out of adjustment, being completely missing is not going to help, lol.

If you put the trans in 1, it holds the gear. However, I'm not getting much turbo response on the top end. I may just be expecting a lot more than it has though. When you manually upshift, it shifts as you'd expect, drops revs etc, still doesn't like making a lot of power.

I'm starting to think this cable is more of a problem than previously. May be smart to fix it first, go from there.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Its not the first time the cable has been at fault.

 

[mudgudgeon]

If you put the trans in 1, it holds the gear. However, I'm not getting much turbo response on the top end. I may just be expecting a lot more than it has though. When you manually upshift, it shifts as you'd expect, drops revs etc, still doesn't like making a lot of power.

I'm starting to think this cable is more of a problem than previously. May be smart to fix it first, go from there.

I think the cable should be first on the list. But also doing some preventative maintenance like changing fuel and air filters etc is easy and inexpensive to do now, it certainly won't hurt, and you can also eliminate them as issues.

 

[Antony]

I plug the line to isolate the boost comp? I.e. Unattaching the line will create a vacuum leak, is that the point or should I close off that leak?

So would it be correct to say its changing gear at 2k foot flat in drive and not reving out? Regardless once your cable is replaced and hopefully shafting as per normal if you still think its down on power you can unplug that hose (it should be connected somewhere where it see's boost eg inlet manifold) and block it. If everything is normal you will drop to unboosted fuel only and lose power. If it makes no difference then yes you have either a boost or fuel issue.

 

[OkiGoose]

It's changing flat foot at 2k.

Changing cable, adjusting shift linkages, new filters. See where I'm at from there.

 

[Sarmajor]

It's a diesel turbo. There is never anything like the vacuum in the intake like you get on a petrol motor. No throttle butterfly to make a vacuum. There is a vacuum pump on the front of the engine to make vacuum for the brakes and to operate bits of the heater mechanism.

Boost comp uses boost pressure to push a diaphragm which pushes the fuelling rod down increasing fuel delivery proportional to boost. This can be adjusted for best performance but wait until you get the current problem fixed.

Change the fuel filter.
Fit the kick down cable.
Check the boost level with a seperate guage.

 

[IanB]

Once you get the trans kickdown cable sorted out, if there's still obvious issues, I'd agree that fitting a boost gauge is needed so you can see what's going on there.

 

[OkiGoose]

Boost, EGT, water temp, and oil pressure are all sitting in the box waiting to go for when I can throw them in. Unfortunately I have to pack the LC up this week and ship it to the states. I'll have to put all this on hold. Last minute orders tend to take priority.


Thanks to everyone for all the valuable insight and help.

 

[YarTheBug]

I just though I'd say thanks to everyone who commented here.

I just had the same problem with my '97 1FZ-FE FJZ80. I got into some water that was a little deeper than expected going a little faster than I should have. Enough water splashed up (I think) to knock the throttle cable completely free of the throttle body. The symptoms were basically the same as OP describes: engine revved fine in park and neutral, transmission and engine work perfectly shifting manually, but when the trans is in drive it upshifts around 2000-2200 rpm and won't let the engine go above that. This was the case even with the pedal on the floor.

After reading this thread I reconnected the throttle cable and found there was about 1-1.5cm slack in the cable which is probably why it got knocked loose. Reading the FSM, it looks like a new cable wants 0-1mm of the little collar sticking out so I started with 1mm and test drove it.

Let me say this was like having a totally different truck! It's always felt sluggish the 7 years I've owned it, but now instead of needing 75-90% throttle to stay in a lower gear and let the motor rev enough to get power it would now stay in a lower gear just over 50%. I kept adjusting in 0.5mm increments in case the cable had stretched and wound up at ~2.5mm of stickout. This was tuned by feel based on how my mom's RAV4, my daughter's Avalon, and her mom's Camry all shift. I couldn't be happier with how it drives now.