1HD-FTE Conversion - Creating the Perfect 80 Series

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Another option for a guage is this one:

Madman EMS3 - 4x4overlander

The latest engine monitor in the range is the Madman EMS3 designed and manufactured in South Africa. It can be calibrated to suit almost any sensor.

www.4x4overlander.com

I like it alot and have it for my 1hdft. Bonus is that you can data log, it has a low coolant sensor, boost, egt, engine temp and oil temp, rpm, service hour counter and alarms for when you approach danger levels. I got this in part because of the alarms as I didn't want to watch egts on long grades or pulls.

 

[MooseMichaels]

Good feedback - just spent at nearly an hour today reading up on folks comparing the A343F and A750 on this forum. As long as the harness builders can get me something very close to plug and play like @lelandEOD 's setup I'm going to run it.

As beautiful as those harnesses coming from Mick FTE are (and that quality of work really does get the heart rate up), I think I'll start with Thrashlux Jonathan since he just did Leland's rig and we saw a video of it running. Hoping that it will be stored in recent memory for him. Going to reach out this week.

Lutz gauge seems the move and will order that soon when i order his shifter adapter circuit and other bits.

Off to partsouq for the rest of the night to continue leaking funds...

 

[Mag71k5]

Good feedback - just spent at nearly an hour today reading up on folks comparing the A343F and A750 on this forum. As long as the harness builders can get me something very close to plug and play like @lelandEOD 's setup I'm going to run it.

As beautiful as those harnesses coming from Mick FTE are (and that quality of work really does get the heart rate up), I think I'll start with Thrashlux Jonathan since he just did Leland's rig and we saw a video of it running. Hoping that it will be stored in recent memory for him. Going to reach out this week.

Lutz gauge seems the move and will order that when soon when i order his shifter adapter circuit and other bits.

Off to partsouq for the rest of the night to continue leaking funds...

Maybe by the end of this we'll have enough spare change for enough diesel to drive them around lol

 

[MooseMichaels]

No kidding. I did the math and tried to convince myself the swap would be worth the cost. With the numbers and assumptions I made, I could have driven the 1FZ around and just enjoyed it for ~65,000 miles before the cost of the swap was equal to the cost of the fuel consumed by the 1FZ.

Safe to say we're not doing this swap for logical reasons

 

[MooseMichaels]

Snuck in a little bit of time in the garage tonight. Pulled the exhuast mani and turbo assembly. I'll need to have the manifold off to drill and tap for the EGT sensor, so I figured I'd clean it up and paint while I'm waiting for parts to arrive.

I've been putting bolts/hardware that I remove in labeled bags so there's no question when I go to put it all back together:

And then with the manifold off, I figured why not just keep going and paint the block, we're already here. Sometimes I can't stop myself. Here is where it will sit for the night to cure, then I'll redress this side of the engine, and do the same on the other side.

I'm fairly sure this won't bee seen by many, if anyone at all, but it sure looks fresher in the stand with some paint.

 

[Mag71k5]

Snuck in a little bit of time in the garage tonight. Pulled the exhuast mani and turbo assembly. I'll need to have the manifold off to drill and tap for the EGT sensor.

Looking good! Where are you going to mount it?

 

[MooseMichaels]

I'm going to mount it pre-turbo, where all of the headers collect, just before the flange where the turbo bolts up on exterior side of the mani.

80-Series Style Icon @bryce0225 took some really nice photos of his EGT sensor install - I plan to do something like this:

What a job this turned out to be...

I went to instal an EGT gauge and found a crack in my exhaust manifold... I ordered new studs, gaskets, manifold... the works. Wasn’t too pricey from partsouq. I think the total was around $500.

The old:
View attachment 2348076

Removing the damn things was real pain... I ended up having to take part the exaust to the Cat and removing al brackets and hoses leading to the turbo. Two studs were stuck and i could not get to them with the manifold in the way.

I tapped the new manifold and ceramic coated the heat shields.

After wiggling and forcing the old manifold off, putting the new one on was just as annoying, but bolt after bolt, i did it. I ended up having to take out all of the studs leading in the block, then fitting the manifold to the turbo, THEN adding all of the studs back into the block through the manifold. Things were not lining up if i tried the other way around.

View attachment 2348078

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EDIT - Photos in the quote aren't showing well, but it's this post - swag.

 

[MooseMichaels]

Continued cleaning up the engine and painting things. Waiting on a response for shipping quote from japan4x4 for the oil pan and pickup. Started bolting accessories back on.

Also waiting on exhaust mani + turbo studs/nuts and and some other small items to do while I had the assembly off to come in.

A few photos because it’s a pretty cool hunk of steel

 

[Mag71k5]

Continued cleaning up the engine and painting things. Waiting on a response for shipping quote from japan4x4 for the oil pan and pickup. Started bolting accessories back on.

Also waiting on exhaust mani + turbo studs/nuts and and some other small items to do while I had the assembly off to come in.

A few photos because it’s a pretty cool hunk of steel
View attachment 3962486
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Great work! Are you going to spice her up at all? Or leave stock for now?

 

[MooseMichaels]

I will admit the temptation is definitely there to do a tune, but to for now I’ll just be sticking with the factory tune while getting it sorted and familiar with the way it drives.

I’ve watched some videos of tuned FTE’s and they’re cool as can be.

From what I’ve read, the 5 speed auto has some power limitations unless you go for better cooling along with some valve body work. Not sure if I’d want to get into the trans that far.

Small update - the conversation has been started with Jonathan and he’s willing to build me a harness. Stoked.

 

[MooseMichaels]

Have some parts on order from Lutz Auto, along with a 1/8-27 NPT tap for the EGT thermocouple.

Still painting and cleaning while I wait for things to come in. Turbo studs, nuts, gasket, and rubber drain hose to sump will be here soon, then will bolt all of this nice hardware back onto the block.

Probably going to need to take the 80 out of commish soon to pull the 1FZ engine harness to ship out. Might start pulling the 1FZ since it will be without a harness. And might run out of space in this humble garage with all this action happening.

I’ve been considering exhaust options and think 3” is the route, and I believe an HDJ80 exhaust would fit routing-wise, but am unsure if it will bolt up to the “ball joint” connection on the dump pipe on the back of the FTE turbo. Anyone have any experience here?

I considered ordering a dump pipe for an HDJ100 and the rest of the exhaust for an HDJ80 - even asked this question to PPD support and they said maybe it would work.

 

[ikarus]

I'm like 99% sure you can just put an 80 series/ 1HD-T or 1HD-FT exhaust on there. You would buy the full system with a new dump pipe and it should bolt on.. I think they're all CT-26.

You have the option to go straight back next to the trans which is a little more difficult routing wise, but seems to be a more ideal setup. I think Manta might make one of those. Or you can go the stock route where it kicks out over the frame on the right hand side and then back inside the frame. Beaudesert, Torqit, PPD, LegendX, Redback etc.

Here's a Beaudesert going on an FTE 80 in one of SNLC's build threads

Builds Post in thread '1997 FZJ80 to HDJ80 1HD-FTE + H152F'

Feb 13, 2024

Turbo and exhaust manifold reassembled and ready to install.

Cheers

• SNLC

• 
• 

Builds Post in thread '1997 FZJ80 to HDJ80 1HD-FTE + H152F'

Jun 17, 2021

Cheers

• SNLC

• 
• 

Builds Post in thread '1997 FZJ80 to HDJ80 1HD-FTE + H152F'

Dec 28, 2023

Got the exhaust polished up today.

Cheers

• SNLC

• 
• 

Here's a little explanation of the more direct routing:

Builds Post in thread 'Ikarus' HDJ81 Aussie-Style Build'

Apr 30, 2023

So i've got basically no knowledge of running exhaust on the diesel models. (or gas for that matter) What is involved in running one inside the frame?

The stock exhaust crosses from engine, to the outer side of the frame rail, then loops back over to run on the inner side of the frame rail before passing up over the rear diff and out the back.
Its a fairly convoluted pathway, and has lots of tight bends which slows gas flow.

Running between the trans and the frame rail ("inside the frame") is a lot straighter path. Far fewer and shorter bends needed. Less restrictive gas flow...

• mudgudgeon

• 

 

[MooseMichaels]

This is a lovely bit of information! I think you're right, If they're all CT26, then the bolt patterns should be the same at the hot side dump. So then I'll need to decide whether to go inside the frame vs outside. Looks like there are some nice options out there. That Beaudesert system in polished SS is beautiful.

 

[MooseMichaels]

New parts on deck! Will do some drilling/tapping for the EGT thermocouple, then get the whole 45 lb mani/turbo assembly back on.

 

[MooseMichaels]

Fully torqued. Got a little loose with my guess on where to cut the heat shield for the EGT probe, but it works for now.

For the probe, I set the depth to the center of the flow, made a mark, and took it out to install. If i ever need to remove it, I'll mark it again so I know the depth it needs to go back to.

The sensor connection recommended tightening to finger tight, then 3/4 turn more so as not to crush the housing.

 

[Mag71k5]

Fully torqued. Got a little loose with my guess on where to cut the heat shield for the EGT probe, but it works for now.
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Looks professional man! Great work!

 

[MooseMichaels]

My humble 2 car garage is really getting worked lately. I need to ship my 1FZ engine harness out, and to get to it, I figured best path was to just start pulling the 1FZ, since it needs to find another home anyways. Pulled the whole front clip, labeled and organized parts onto a cart. Pulled the exhaust - all bolts came out with no fuss, I couldn’t believe it. Pulled driveshafts, and started removing the harness.

Likely the last time I see the mighty 1FZ run, thank you 1FZ for your service.

If anyone is in the market for a nice 1FZ, I am here. Will clean it up and post in the classifieds.

I’ve been wrestling with getting to the parts of the harness under the throttle body - got to those after pulling the throttle body, and am still wrestling with reaching the harness connections below the intake mani. I had the thought - why not just disconnect the engine harness from the body, and remove the harness, eng, and trans all together, then remove the rest of the harness. Anyone have experience here?

1HZ oil pan, pickup, and gasket will be here tomorrow from Japan4x4. I was considering the difference between the FTE 100 series oil pan and 1HZ oil pan and my lizard brain is thinking maybe I need to get the 1HZ dipstick/tube also. My thought was that I’d hate to not be adding/checking against the correct oil volume because I made a mistake with the wrong dipstick. Any input here would be helpful also.

 

[Mag71k5]

For the engine harness, unplug at ECU, pull the connectors through the firewall, drape over the engine, there are a connectors from the body harness you do need to disconnect. If i recall there is 2-3 around the AC compressor, 2-3 at the starter, and maybe a few sensor wires.

Ill take some pics of the service manual in the morning. Following it made it super easy, there are a lot of engine and trans connectors you won't be able to reach while its in the cruiser.

 

[MooseMichaels]

This is exactly what I was thinking! Thanks for the confirmation.

 

[Mag71k5]

Skip step 15, get her out!