1HD-FT rough idle after injection pump swap (1 Viewer)

[Oregon trail]

So I had a leaky injector pump and went the route of having one shipped over by gturbo and a red wheel turbo while I’m at it. I pulled my old pump and reinstalled the new one along with timing it while I was at it. The first start up it ran rough! I figured I got one tooth off on the belt and changed where I thought it happened. It didn’t even run then. I went and lined up all the marks and BDC so now it’s perfect according to the witness marks but still runs rough and won’t even rev just goes from a rough idle to sputtering and blowing smoke.

The other thing I just checked was that I got the injector lines correct which they appear to be. I found and stopped any air leaks in the lines but but it hasn’t helped. I’m at a loss now I’m guessing it’s something simple
Too.

I did take and losen the pump and mess with timing so it’s no longer right but I wanted to see if I messed with it while running if it would smooth itself out to no avail.

My rig did have the emissions stuff but obviously the new pump doesn’t but I’m assuming that wouldn’t really do anything to cause this.

 

[Oregon trail]

Soni replaced fuel lines going to the pump and hasn’t made a difference and after reading more I doubt it’s a air issue it billows white and a little darker smoke the moment you give it any gas.

 

[mudgudgeon]

White smoke when trying to teen the engine means unburned fuel. (Exhaust will stink of raw diesel)
Usually because air is getting in the fuel lines, and affecting timing, by badly retarding timing.

Have you verified you aren't getting air into the fuel system by using a piece of clear hose at the pump? $5 of clear hose can help eliminate a lot of the possible problems.

If you've changed all soft fuel lines, and everything is good there, then look at what else you have changed in this equation?

Did you replace the fuel filter? Is it sealed ok? It's common to have one of the o-rings not seated properly allowing air in to the filter housing.

Fuel filter housing and hand primer assembly are also common failure points. Hand priming the new pump may have been the final straw for the diaphragm in the pump, and it may be allowing air in.

If you've used clear hose at the pump, and verified you have no air bubbles, then look at other things.

Recheck your timing at the pump. A small change here can make a big difference. If you got alignment marks on all the gears correct, you should be getting close, but may not be in the ball park yet, you might still be 1/2 a block out from the carpark.

Beyond that, how long have you run the engine? It can take a few minutes for all the air to get out of injector lines.

 

[Oregon trail]

So I’ll be trying clear hose today. I did only change the hose I took off for the swap so the filter to hard line hose is still original.

I’ve ran it for awhile honestly and one thing ads injection wants me to do today is run it and crack all the injector lines.

 

[Oregon trail]

 

[Oregon trail]

I’ll have another video Bellow this one from yesterday. Ram it for a few minutes trying to get air out of clear house. Ultimately it was clear some small bubbles here and there but with his it’s smoking it’s billowing and it’s worse in person

 

[Oregon trail]

This was yesterday but sounds the same but I would say even more smoke probably because I ran it a half hour yesterday whereas today was shorter but still 5-10 minutes I just couldn’t stand the smoke anymore and I’m sure my neighbors couldn’t.

 

[chelo]

When I timed my pump and was off it sounded like the first video. Lots of rattling. I got it by using the timing tool. It was really retarded.
Not sure what is causing that amount of smoke.

 

[Oregon trail]

When I timed my pump and was off it sounded like the first video. Lots of rattling. I got it by using the timing tool. It was really retarded.
Not sure what is causing that amount of smoke.

You and me both. The other day I even loosened the pump and so I could see if I moved it around it would settle out and very little change really.

 

[KiwiDingo]

Is this a cold start issue only or still does this after you've been driving it?

 

[Oregon trail]

Is this a cold start issue only or still does this after you've been driving it?

This is a I just swapped the injection pump cause mine was leaking and now it doesn’t leak but it barely runs and the smoke is insane! I have let it run for a bit but it’s not driveable. It won’t rev past 1k and it idles at 800ish

 

[KiwiDingo]

That exact exhaust sound, white smoke and won't rev past a certain RPM is all signs of your timing being very retarded. Do you have a picture of the pump showing how close it's sitting to the inlet manifold to give reference on how much room you have left to adjust it for more timing.

 

[Oregon trail]

That exact exhaust sound, white smoke and won't rev past a certain RPM is all signs of your timing being very retarded. Do you have a picture of the pump showing how close it's sitting to the inlet manifold to give reference on how much room you have left to adjust it for more timing.

It’s sitting like that currently. Timing seams to make the most simce to me but my first thougj was I cracked it lose and with it running slowly adjusted it to the block but it ran basically the same.

 

[mudgudgeon]

You shouldn't see any air in a clear hose.
As you rev the engine, the pump is going to pull more vacuum through the fuel lines. Any air leak will become more pronounced.

Air compresses in the injector lines meaning it takes longer for pressure to build up in the injectors and crack the nozzle, effectively retarding injection/ignition

 

[mudgudgeon]

Agree with Kiwi dingo above.

Videos looks and sounds badly retarded.
The rough idle and sputtering when you try and rev it suggests air in the fuel

 

[Oregon trail]

Agree with Kiwi dingo above.

Videos looks and sounds badly retarded.
The rough idle and sputtering when you try and rev it suggests air in the fuel

Ok so I’ll check for air leaks but what I see is since it’s not drivable like that video that’s likely from it being retarded. I’ll check pump timing again tonight especially after my wife mentioned who helped me watch The Gage she said it may or made two full revolutions meaning it was set to 2.50 instead of 1.50 so if that’s the case that would mean I was war to advanced but I agree it sounds retarded. Will me having any of the timing gears out cause that large of a reading? I’ll also add when I ram it and messed with advancing and retarding the pump while running it ram best at the furthest advanced I could get it but when I adjusted the cam gear it still ram like crap but I didn’t re time the pump.

 

[mudgudgeon]

when I adjusted the cam gear it still ram like crap but I didn’t re time the pump.

What do you mean by adjusted the cam gear?

The first start up it ran rough! I figured I got one tooth off on the belt and changed where I thought it happened.

And this comment about the belt?

The pump is driven by the crank via gears. Gear alignment sets the basic timing. The belt drives the cam only. If you had the belt aligned wrong, it won't affect injection timing.

Maybe re-check the pump drive gears are all aligned correctly. This means opening up the timing case. Harmonic balancer off, belts off, timing case off, re-check marks, button it up again

 

[mudgudgeon]

What do you mean by adjusted the cam gear?



And this comment about the belt?

The pump is driven by the crank via gears. Gear alignment sets the basic timing. The belt drives the cam only. If you had the belt aligned wrong, it won't affect injection timing.

Maybe re-check the pump drive gears are all aligned correctly. This means opening up the timing case. Harmonic balancer off, belts off, timing case off, re-check marks, button it up again

If you removed and replaced the injector pump without opening up the timing case, you have a couple of potential pit falls

- can you be sure the pump drive gears timing alignment was correct previously?

- fitting the pump to the timing case with gears in place can introduce a side load on the injection pump shaft. This can destroy the shaft seal and cause diesel to leak into the crank case.

 

[Oregon trail]

If you removed and replaced the injector pump without opening up the timing case, you have a couple of potential pit falls

- can you be sure the pump drive gears timing alignment was correct previously?

- fitting the pump to the timing case with gears in place can introduce a side load on the injection pump shaft. This can destroy the shaft seal and cause diesel to leak into the crank case.

I did not open up the timing case since that’s not how the service manual said to do it.

I can’t be sure no other than it ran well and nearly no smoke what so ever.

If that’s the case why didn’t I find a video write up or anything about that?

 

[mudgudgeon]

I did not open up the timing case since that’s not how the service manual said to do it.

I can’t be sure no other than it ran well and nearly no smoke what so ever.

If that’s the case why didn’t I find a video write up or anything about that?

There's been some discussion on the side loading and seal failure on other cruiser forums. I think it's a possible problem, not necessarily a problem every time.

In regards to timing, solve the air in fuel issue first. And check timing with the dial gauge. If you can't solve your problem, then consider opening the timing case to be sure gears are aligned correctly.