1HD-FT 80 series build (1 Viewer)

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We (Westcoastcruisers.com, San Diego, California) just completed the build of a 1996 80 series with a fully rebuilt 1HD-FT engine. Here is a brief documentation of the project. I will be uploading pictures over the next days, but feel free to ask specific questions.

The background:
The truck had a 1HD-T engine in it. I had multiple problems with this engine (some documented on MUD), and finally decided I had enough of it, and threw it out, despite having it rebuilt fully before that.
Then we had the good luck to pick up a 1HD-FT engine from a storage locker in SF. That engine turned out to be almost brand new, but the piston pin in #6 was wrongly installed, so that cylinder had some scoring. So the engine got a full rebuild.

The truck:
The truck is a 1996 US model 80 series that has been re-registered as diesel. Yes-fully legal, yes-with the correct VIN, yes-as the correct year, no-it is not a grey market vehicle (just to pre-answer the usual questions). The truck is fully locked, OME heavy 2 inch lift, front ARB, rear BumpitOffRoad, factory auxiliary tank, dual batteries, Waggongear goodies……..just no useful engine.
The truck has a new H151F 5 speed manual transmission and a HF1A part time transfer case.

The plan for the engine:
Fully rebuild it with all new bearings, seals, pistons with Alfin inserts, new hoses…
Add a Grunter 2 G turbo.
Add a top mount intercooler.
Completely rebuild the injection pump to the specs provided by the good Graeme at G-turbo. Rebuild the injectors.

People that provided essential help:
Michael at westcoastcruisers owns the shop we work in and has enormous knowledge about Toyota diesel engines.
Bob was always there to help.
Pete helped me pull more engines than he ever wished for.
Graeme was super helpful when it came to the turbo and injection pump specs.
Akella4x4 managed to get all the 1HD-FT specific parts we needed at great prices.
TheBigBoy rescued the whole project by going out of his way in getting us a clutch that could actually handle the torque and power of the engine.
Thank you all!

The outcome:
The truck is crazy powerful. I do not have Dyno data, but it is just ridiculous in acceleration. On a long fairly steep grade that I had to downshift to 3rd with the 1HD-T I can now accelerate easily in 5th gear. The temperatures are actually lower than before. On a long and fast highway run the water temp was stable at 180F and the EGTs never exceeded 700F during acceleration and were stable at 400F when cruising at 75mph.

OK, here are some pics:

The block back from the machine shop and the rebuild injection pump installed.
 
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Scribed, this should be good :popcorn:

Hey Jan, did you get any head work done while it was off?
 
Scribed, this should be good :popcorn:

Hey Jan, did you get any head work done while it was off?

The head was checked and found perfect. The cam and bearings were brand new. We checked the valve clearances when we put it back on. New head gasket and head bolts were used, of course.
cheers,
jan
 
oh geez, I want one of those.

What is the factor on the part time case, just owner preference or to eek out a little more MPG? The full time 4WD was a big reason for me to get an 80 series. The 5 speed would be very nice.
 
oh geez, I want one of those.

What is the factor on the part time case, just owner preference or to eek out a little more MPG? The full time 4WD was a big reason for me to get an 80 series. The 5 speed would be very nice.

MPG and the fact that the HF1A came attached to the original 5 speed already.
cheers,
J
 
Looking good Jan!
 
I know who I'm taking my FT to if it ever needs to be rebuilt! :p

Looking forward to more pics
 
Nice work. But I have to say your EGT numbers have problems. 400 and 700F are not in the ball-park.
 
They are post turbo. Too low/high? Bad gauge/sensor in your opinion?
Thanks
Jan

Too low. Post-turbo is the first problem. Move the probe to the manifold, make sure it extends to the middle of the flow and see how it goes.
You should be reading around 150C (300F) at a warm idle.
 
Here is the spot i put mine, thread size was 1/8 npt and drill size was a shortened and magnetised 8.4mm? Bit hazy on the exact size of final drill size but can find out if you want.

Some might disagree with doing this without removing the manifold but the turbo was old and getting replaced with a shiny gold one from Graeme anyway. Leaving the manifold on makes it a single beer job instead of three.....

DSC01448.jpg


DSC01450.jpg
 
Here is the spot i put mine, thread size was 1/8 npt and drill size was a shortened and magnetised 8.4mm? Bit hazy on the exact size of final drill size but can find out if you want.

Some might disagree with doing this without removing the manifold but the turbo was old and getting replaced with a shiny gold one from Graeme anyway. Leaving the manifold on makes it a single beer job instead of three.....

Cool, thanks. I'll move it there…
cheers,
Jan
 
I have no problems putting iron filings through a (stationary) turbine. They are built to handle far worse than that.
 
I have no problems putting iron filings through a (stationary) turbine. They are built to handle far worse than that.

mmm call me paranoiac .. but that idea ( drill and tap with the manifold in place ) never cross my mind .. kinda PITA pull manifold with turbo alone, but can be done ..

on topic .. nice kit .. there are more are more popular each day ..

Actually I saw couple ones under 600 bucks ..

those guys from Cross Country must be pretty pissed ..
 
mmm call me paranoiac .. but that idea ( drill and tap with the manifold in place ) never cross my mind .. kinda PITA pull manifold with turbo alone, but can be done ..

On my own vehicles I've always pulled the manifold. Mainly because it makes the job easier and lets me see how the probe will sit.
 
I have done a few right on the truck and there are no issues doing that. You can even put the truck at idle just to blow them out when you punch through. Putting grease on the bit helps catch stuff too.
 

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