1FZ-FE running rich! Plz help me haha (1 Viewer)

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If the fuel regulator was stuffed, you'd have fuel in the vacuum line. Check it a few times, sometimes mine did sometimes it didnt, but it was stuffed. So just check it a few times after a drive to see if there's any drops of fuel.

You may also want to check/test and adjust your throttle position sensor.

LPG systems usually splice into the o2 sensor, TPS, engine coolant temp sensor, injector signal wires etc. Check your wiring, if they removed the LPG tank, converter etc, did they also remove the LPG ecu and wiring? Just make sure all that's been done properly.

Definitely need to try and read your ecu for codes.

Tested your coil?

Reset ecu by pulling EFI fuse and negative terminal for 15mins?

Where abouts in Australia are you?
 
We have a plug like this in the USDM models and there's some pins in there you can jump to then count the flashes of the CEL to get codes. I don't know what pins you'd need to jump with your hundy, but that's where it happens.

Screenshot 2025-07-24 at 10.30.41.webp
 
If the fuel regulator was stuffed, you'd have fuel in the vacuum line. Check it a few times, sometimes mine did sometimes it didnt, but it was stuffed. So just check it a few times after a drive to see if there's any drops of fuel.

You may also want to check/test and adjust your throttle position sensor.

LPG systems usually splice into the o2 sensor, TPS, engine coolant temp sensor, injector signal wires etc. Check your wiring, if they removed the LPG tank, converter etc, did they also remove the LPG ecu and wiring? Just make sure all that's been done properly.

Definitely need to try and read your ecu for codes.

Tested your coil?

Reset ecu by pulling EFI fuse and negative terminal for 15mins?

Where abouts in Australia are you?

Good point, that is my next avenue after talking to the sparky at work with an early EFI rover, looking into the loom and testing sensor resistances back at the ecu.

I’ll have a look at the TPS, I placed the reg under significant human vacuum haha and it didn’t leak on me. I am wondering if it could be stuck shut.

Haven’t tested coils yet. Drives fine just is rich and has a bit of an idle issue haha. Melbourne, well South-East.

On the code front, I have ordered a cord to use techstream, so I’m going to try that next week.
 
Update.

I have changed the fuel pressure reg for a genuine one, and I have replaced the IAC, for a genuine Denso Toyota one. Seems to be slightly better, however I also reset the ECU at the same time. Apparently open to close loop takes 12 cycles. So I assume I’ll see mid next week if there is any real difference. I’m currently doing a fuel test (l/100kph) to see if it’s made any difference on that end.

Surely TPS wouldn’t be causing this? Also, has anyone removed the throttle dampener on their manual? I feel like I’m getting desperate.

Must say, f**k it’s nice to drive, I just wish I could get this c*nt sorted.

Side note - is the factory ECU at all tuneable? I know in Aus with Ford Falcons we use J3 chips, this allows you a level of tuning (exert from the J3 creator - (cold start fuel, idle speed, lean cruise mode, etc), ignition advance, transmission control (shift firmness and speeds, torque convertor lockup), idle speeds, rev and speed limiters, Smartlock and Smartshield, and more)).

Does something like this exist for Toyotas? Or is it haltech or nothing haha.
 
Factory ECU isn't tunable so Haltech or similar is your best bet. Have wondered about trying a piggyback like a unichip but haven't done anything on this yet.

You won't have OBD2 on this unfortunately.

20L/100 is about what these get, I've got as good as just under 16/100 in my 80 with stock wheels and stock size very mild all terrain tyres fitted, H151 manual transmission and 100% highway, but not very often.

Have you checked the coolant temp sender? If the ECU thinks engine is cold all the time it will screw with the idle speed etc.
 
Update.

I have changed the fuel pressure reg for a genuine one, and I have replaced the IAC, for a genuine Denso Toyota one. Seems to be slightly better, however I also reset the ECU at the same time. Apparently open to close loop takes 12 cycles. So I assume I’ll see mid next week if there is any real difference. I’m currently doing a fuel test (l/100kph) to see if it’s made any difference on that end.

Surely TPS wouldn’t be causing this? Also, has anyone removed the throttle dampener on their manual? I feel like I’m getting desperate.

Must say, f**k it’s nice to drive, I just wish I could get this c*nt sorted.

Side note - is the factory ECU at all tuneable? I know in Aus with Ford Falcons we use J3 chips, this allows you a level of tuning (exert from the J3 creator - (cold start fuel, idle speed, lean cruise mode, etc), ignition advance, transmission control (shift firmness and speeds, torque convertor lockup), idle speeds, rev and speed limiters, Smartlock and Smartshield, and more)).

Does something like this exist for Toyotas? Or is it haltech or nothing haha.

Find a mechanic with an electrajet diagnostic tool to check all your sensors and values. That's how my issues were found after 12 months of me trying to sort it, doing all the same stuff you had. He had it sorted in 3 days.. I was kicking myself for not giving up sooner.

Here's the sort of readings they can access. From my 80.

electrajet.webp
 

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