1fz-fe Oil Consumption Issue

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Picked it up, he said he my timing still is probably a "tooth" off, he didn't want to set it because he "didn't want to give me that much power"

Here's a snapshot of the invoice I was given.

View attachment 2030859

Clearly he'd rather fleece you with a $20k rebuild!

Good move taking your car out of that shop
 
awaiting the other shop to have room but i think i should do my own compression test, i have a few questions regarding that.

test when engine is up to operating temp - yes
1 plug at a time or do i need to remove all of them?
i can pull the ignition fuse or pop off the lead dizzy wire.
once i thread in the tester, how many times should i let the motor turn over before i record the data, 4-5?
do compression testers internally store the psi or will it bleed out once i stop cranking?

also ill need to pick up a compression tester, any recommendations on what to get?
 
awaiting the other shop to have room but i think i should do my own compression test, i have a few questions regarding that.

test when engine is up to operating temp - yes
1 plug at a time or do i need to remove all of them?
i can pull the ignition fuse or pop off the lead dizzy wire.
once i thread in the tester, how many times should i let the motor turn over before i record the data, 4-5?
do compression testers internally store the psi or will it bleed out once i stop cranking?

also ill need to pick up a compression tester, any recommendations on what to get?

I would recommend pulling all of the spark plugs before starting the compression test. You'l need to anyway, plus there's zero chance of you forgetting to disconnect the ignition wire and having the engine try to start.

The compression tester will have a release valve to let the pressure out once you take a reading. It won't take but a few seconds of cranking to achieve a reading.
 
awaiting the other shop to have room but i think i should do my own compression test, i have a few questions regarding that.

test when engine is up to operating temp - yes

Preferably.

1 plug at a time or do i need to remove all of them?

All of them. It's a comparative thing, so want the motor to turn as fast as the starter can, consistently for each test, good battery charge, etc.

i can pull the ignition fuse or pop off the lead dizzy wire.

Prefer removing the EFI fuse.

once i thread in the tester, how many times should i let the motor turn over before i record the data, 4-5?

Yep.

do compression testers internally store the psi or will it bleed out once i stop cranking?

Will hold the reading.

also ill need to pick up a compression tester, any recommendations on what to get?

Needs to be the hose type, other than that, doesn't really matter. If it's a one time deal, barrow from a buddy or "rent" at the local parts store.
 
Preferably.



All of them. It's a comparative thing, so want the motor to turn as fast as the starter can, consistantly for each test, good battery charge, etc.



Prefer removing the EFI fuse.



Yep.



Will hold the reading.



Needs to be the hose type, other than that, doesn't really matter. If it's a one time deal, barrow from a buddy or "rent" at the local parts store.
Thanks for the response Tools, i appreciate it!
 
once i thread in the tester, how many times should i let the motor turn over before i record the data, 4-5?

Yep, or turn it over until the gauge stops rising any significant amount.
Have an assistant turn the key so you can watch the gauge
 
UPDATE!!

ill start with saying its running great! heres what happened yesterday.

I contacted Rock Solid Toys who said bring it in and ill check it out. When i got there he didnt think it was that serious although didnt have the time to dig into it further. He called YotaMasters and gave them the quick summary. They said to bring it over and they would check it out.

So I drove it to YotaMasters. Arrived and gave them the run down on the last few weeks of my life. They did the following;

Noted the timing was still off.
Compression test and repeated each cylinder twice
cyl #1 = 150psi
cyl#2 = 147psi
cyl#3 = 160psi
cyl#4 = 150psi
cyl#5 = 150psi
cyl#6 = 160psi

also noted ash build up on spark plugs and carbon build up on pistons.
Top End Cleaning - De-carbon treatment.
Oil change to 15-40 Rotella with the large filter
We couldnt see any problems with my PCV valve but swapped it out for a new one anyways

While setting the timing they noticed that the marks were jumping around and it was not easy getting the 80 into diagnostic mode - upon further inspection they noticed that the TPS sensor was going out and sensitive to even a touch by hand. He messed with it a little to get the signal to work and be able to set the timing, ill need to get a new one and have that installed and calibrated as its on its last leg.

He also put a scope on the o2 sensors to see them in wave form and they do produce a nice sweeping wave. They are old but they are working great.

i was advised with the timing being slightly off and having a tps sensor thats going out, along with probably too thin of oil (im sure this statment will get some responses) for my mileage, i had a handful of small things that were contributing to the loss of power and oil consumption. I was advised to stick with the conventional rotella oil. He advised that my engine is in good working condition and does not warrant a re-build, it actually feels as strong as other 1fz-fe's that come into the shop.

I drove it home yesterday and have been driving it today, it pulls great on the freeway now i have no issue going 75mph. Its pulling great on the few freeway inclines that have been on so far and overall is running smoother. One thing i noticed yesterday and today is that my motor only cranks 1.5-2x before firing, oppose to before it would crank about 3x before firing.

i cant thank Wyatt @ Rock Solid Toys enough for taking the time to meet with me and then making the call to YotaMasters, If he hadn't done so i wouldnt have been able to get an appointment with them until August as they are booked solid. Thanks to Dan @ YotaMasters he is extremely detailed in his work and cared for my 80 as if it was his own.

Now i've gotta get a new TPS sensor and put few hundred highway miles on it and see if my consumption is no more. Ill post another update after i get some miles on it, so far since yesterday i have driven about 75mi and it still feels great.
 
Much better result! Good to deal with people who are honest and know what they are doing!?
 
...
Oil change to 15-40 Rotella with the large filter
...
probably too thin of oil (im sure this statment will get some responses) for my mileage, ...

Possibly was thinner than ideal for your conditions, especially if it's whipped on long climbs in hot weather? Our USA oil recommendation is politically influenced.

The "for everyone but USA" chart:
1FZFE motor
20w50 oil- -7C deg to 38C plus ; 19F to 100F plus
15w40 oil -10C deg to 38C plus; 14F to 100F plus
10w30 oil -18C to 38C deg; 0F to 100F
5w30 oil -30C to 38C deg; -22F to 100F

Mine is never started at 14F, but often is operated at 110F+, so I run 15w50 and prefer the small filter.
 
Much better result! Good to deal with people who are honest and know what they are doing!?
I am absolutely blown away.

I still cannot believe I was given the diagnosis I received from Toyota Land Cruisers/ Icon in Chatsworth. The 2 cylinders they said we're toast were the high numbers on the compression test. wtf.

New TPS ordered from Toyota will have it Tuesday and then I'll get that buttoned up.
 
Glad to hear it turned out well.
 

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