This is pedantic. The temperature is directly proportional to EGR gas flow, so the ECU uses the temperature as a means of monitoring flow. This is clear from the FSM trouble shooting guide. When there is no flow, the temperature of the sensor is 100F less than ambient and the ECU is supposed to set the CEL and P0401. If it doesn't, there is something wrong, such as the temp sensor and it needs to be fixed.
My temp sensor specs out according to the FSM. It's not a problem. My ECU specs out according to the FSM. It's not a problem.
Why do you keep insisting that the simplest explanation (and most logical one) must not be true?
When there is no flow, the temperature of the sensor is 100F less than ambient and the ECU is supposed to set the CEL and P0401.
From the FSM:
122 (F) - 64K -97K Ohms
212 (F) - 11K - 16K Ohms
302 (F) - 2K - 4K Ohms
Again, you seem to not understand the way that the EGR system works unless you think that ambient is regularly around 250* F.
Ambient temp (or more correctly the intake temp at startup) appears to be one of the factors that determines whether the EGR system is tested, but it is
not the test to see if it passes or fails. The pass/fail is based on the temps above. Ambient temp is used to enable the pass/fail test.
If the EGR system is flagged green, then the temp sensor is reading a resistance of 11k to 16k Ohms.
But what we're seeing is two things:
1) The range that the ECU considers acceptable seems to be larger than the resistances above. I've had my truck run for almost 1k miles with a resistance of (essentially) 0, and no CEL, despite being far outside the normal range. Others have run their trucks with 1k resistors, and again no CEL's.
2) Even without bypassing the temp sensor the ECU flags the EGR system as green with a plugged up EGR system. Unless you want to suggest that dozens upon dozens of people have a bad ECU, the simpler option is that the ECU sees the EGR system as good because the temp range is acceptable to it.
It would be interesting to drive around with different sized resistors and figure out where the threshold for the EGR system is set at. While you couldn't get it down exactly, you could come close. We already know that the 1k resistor works just fine, which shows that the ECU thinks that anything below 300* is just fine. As I ran for almost 1k miles without a CEL, even above 300* is okay, though how much below is hard to say.
AFAIK no one's gone the other way very far. There's one person I know who was using a 64k resistor without issue (granted over a relatively short period of time) which seems to suggest that temps as low as 150* are acceptable to the ECU.
For those who are interested there's a technical doc that can be found on the TIS site about the EGR system. It details the basics of the three different types of detection methods used by the ECU to determine the state of the EGR system.
There are three types
of detection methods are:
• EGR temperature detection method
• EGR MAP detection method
• EGR valve position/temperature detection method
The temperature only method is rather crude and basic, and does not give very good resolution into the EGR system.
The MAP and valve position plus temp detection methods are far more advanced and give a nice clear resolution into the operation of the EGR system. Either of those methods could be used for the more advanced EGR operation that you find in newer engines, such as leaning out the fuel flow.
Even the MAP method is not much more advanced than temp only as it relies on a misfire to set a DTC P0402 code.
The valve position + temp detection method can actually see if the valve is open or not, and what the temps are. Unlike the temp only method, this allows the ECU to see if the EGR system is truely functioning or not. That's the difference between newer Toyota engines and the 1FZ, they use very different methods of determining what the EGR system is doing.