1FZ FE Cylinder Head bolts/studs - ARP kit that works great.

[LINUS]

If it gets hot and it’s not a TTY fastener is should get a second go around.

+1

Why we all were sent out like Minions (little yellow cartoons) - you didn’t pack a TQ wrench, just a ball-peen hammer to smack & paintpen all that “ping” - if it fell/felt dead, it was wasn’t tight.

Lube the valve cover plug gaskets in Sil-Glide & pull / check — if you want to OC/D the ARP nuts.
But most just call ARP studs & the clamp nuts as final job unless you run a exotic headgasket / you think your crazy boost motor needs a 2nd pass. —— You know best ——

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Triple checked in sequence before buttoning her up, but no re-entry for torque verification after a heat cycle as mentioned...

Perfect, music to my ears, thanks

 

[TYM4FUN]

Perfect, music to my ears, thanks

Just to be very very clear, it is just what I did with the information provided. I have 1,200 miles since install, related to the question. ARP would be the DJ...

 

[lumbee1]

My headgasket blew and I will be ordering the upgraded OEM gasket and planned to order OEM head bolts.
ARP 203-4305 Head Stud Kit is $158.
OEM head bolts from MegaZip are $170.88.

Is the recommendation still to go with the ARP over the Toyota head bolts?

 

[inkpot]

My headgasket blew and I will be ordering the upgraded OEM gasket and planned to order OEM head bolts.
ARP 203-4305 Head Stud Kit is $158.
OEM head bolts from MegaZip are $170.88.

Is the recommendation still to go with the ARP over the Toyota head bolts?

I inspected all my old headbolts and re used them all. I did a H G job due to a burned valve. Over 100,000 miles ago. I am running thr TRD supercharger at 8.5 lbs of boost, no problems .

 

[lumbee1]

I inspected all my old headbolts and re used them all. I did a H G job due to a burned valve. Over 100,000 miles ago. I am running thr TRD supercharger at 8.5 lbs of boost, no problems .

Thanks! I've ordered the upgraded Toyota headgasket and ARP supra stud kit.

 

[Tonkaboy]

FWIW the existing bolts were ~5mm shorter than the new ARP Supra 203-4205 studs in my kit. The ARPs all threaded in by hand and tops did not protrude into anything, so found no reason to cut--at least with my block's hole & thread depths.

A selling point / claim from ARP is when used with their Ultra-Torque lube, a re-torque is not necessary:
ARP | Official Website | ARP Ultra-Torque - https://arp-bolts.com/p/arpultratorque.php

Disclaimer: The Previous Owner changed the head, not sure if bolts were original.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

FWIW the existing bolts were ~5mm shorter than the new ARP Supra 203-4205 studs in my kit. The ARPs all threaded in by hand and tops did not protrude into anything, so found no reason to cut--at least with my block's hole & thread depths.

A selling point / claim from ARP is when used with their Ultra-Torque lube, a re-torque is not necessary:
ARP | Official Website | ARP Ultra-Torque - https://arp-bolts.com/p/arpultratorque.php

Disclaimer: The Previous Owner changed the head, not sure if bolts were original.
View attachment 3834629

I'm guessing your comment about not being factory studs might be accurate. My studs were factory and longer than the ARP studs.

I chased my threads in the block a couple times, verified very clean, used ARP lube and "set" the ARP bolt nut to ensure equal depth attempting uniform torque to the head.

I also checked torque multiple times, I had to wait a few days due to a chipped valve shim bucket , so I wasn't in a hurry.