1998 Front End Feels Loose (???) (1 Viewer)

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MDK

Can’t dance
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
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Location
Charlottesville, VA
Hey all.

Been driving my 1998 100 series for maybe 6 months now and i think I’ve decided I enjoy driving my 1985 60 with Napa shocks probably installed around 1990 more. It feels awful to drive.
let me clarify-
It feels sloppy, loose, like every time I face a steep-ish slope I cringe or have to turn while going up a driveway or hill. I hate driving it. Please help me figure out why it feels like this, I would love to enjoy this hundo but so far i haven’t.

Info: 240k miles. Georgia truck no rust. KYB s*** shocks PO installed. Recent brake/PS fluid drain+fill at dealership with fancy machine so I couldn’t F anything up Superpro front sway bar end link bushings. Recent alignment - like last week. No leaking that I can see from steering rack, haven’t lost any fluid since ownership.
Steering feels clunky and loose. I wouldn’t take this thing wheeling unless you offered to pay for everything that broke.

No I’m not in a position to drop $5k on suspension overhaul, but I am in a position to buy new bushings and new oem shocks to try and remedy this. The truck is in good condition and no rust underneath. My next plan of attack was to buy oem shocks ^^^ and go from there because I think the KYB are the cause of most of my woes.

sorry for wall of text. Open to suggestions/thoughts/comments/“this F****** guy.. :bang:.”’s

:flipoff2:
 
Sounds like it's already about to break on you, no wheeling required. Properly done, it should be as tight as anything, and light years ahead of your 60 (I used to own one as well).

You need more diagnosis. Jack the front wheels off the ground and watch your steering rack as someone turns the wheel. It sounds off the bat like your rack bushings are cooked. While the wheels are up, check for play in wheel bearings and ball joints. Little bits of play in various places can add up to tons of slop.

I'm guessing early MY if you don't have ATRAC going absolutely berserk.
 
Sounds like it's already about to break on you, no wheeling required. Properly done, it should be as tight as anything, and light years ahead of your 60 (I used to own one as well).

You need more diagnosis. Jack the front wheels off the ground and watch your steering rack as someone turns the wheel. It sounds off the bat like your rack bushings are cooked. While the wheels are up, check for play in wheel bearings and ball joints. Little bits of play in various places can add up to tons of slop.

I'm guessing early MY if you don't have ATRAC going absolutely berserk.
No ATRAC. Edit - ooh , yes. 1998
 
Here are my 'front end once over' cliff notes. More info is everywhere by searching, but hopefully this gets you started.

1. Jack a corner of the car up by the frame rail so that each front tire is just off the ground (one at a time).
A) Then use a prybar to wedge the tire up and watch the lower ball joint. If there is vertical movement it needs replaced.
B) Wiggle wheel side to side (like you are trying to turn it) with the wheel off the ground. Tie rod movement is bad.
C) Spin it and wiggle it. Wheel bearings?
D) Visual check of sway bar end link pillow mounts

2. With all 4 wheels on the ground, take off the belly pan and lay down in front of the truck.
Have someone switch between drive and reverse with their foot on the brake.
A) Watch for biff movement at the bushings. Pay particular attention to the front pillow mount on the diff and lower bushing. Excessive movement is bad. A prybar is very useful to check the lower bushing, but be careful-ish with the pillow mount in the front diff cover.
B) Look for excessive drive shaft to flange movement.
Have someone turn the wheel side to side
C) do the rack mounts bushings allow the rack to move
D) tie rod ends still look OK

Post back with findings / video if that doesn't help you figure it out.
 
Here are my 'front end once over' cliff notes. More info is everywhere by searching, but hopefully this gets you started.

1. Jack a corner of the car up by the frame rail so that each front tire is just off the ground (one at a time).
A) Then use a prybar to wedge the tire up and watch the lower ball joint. If there is vertical movement it needs replaced.
B) Wiggle wheel side to side (like you are trying to turn it) with the wheel off the ground. Tie rod movement is bad.
C) Spin it and wiggle it. Wheel bearings?
D) Visual check of sway bar end link pillow mounts

2. With all 4 wheels on the ground, take off the belly pan and lay down in front of the truck.
Have someone switch between drive and reverse with their foot on the brake.
A) Watch for biff movement at the bushings. Pay particular attention to the front pillow mount on the diff and lower bushing. Excessive movement is bad. A prybar is very useful to check the lower bushing, but be careful-ish with the pillow mount in the front diff cover.
B) Look for excessive drive shaft to flange movement.
Have someone turn the wheel side to side
C) do the rack mounts bushings allow the rack to move
D) tie rod ends still look OK

Post back with findings / video if that doesn't help you figure it out.
Perfect write up. Thx for the time man. Think this truck just needs a little love. TREs , and LBJs will be first to be replaced. 240k they’re probably tired. This cruiser was well loved and taken care of but I wasn’t able to retrieve service records from PO. Thankfully not expensive venture to do this stuff and it’s all (maybe not steering rack) tasks I can complete in my driveway. Looking forward to getting this done
 
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Along with what @MJK suggested, check all of the squishy bits. They should be squishy but not that squishy. If you see any cracks, just replace it and be pro-active.
 
Whoever did the alignment should have done a cursory check of the front end before ever beginning their work.

Steering rack bushings sound like your problem.....but you might well find wear/slack in several other areas as well.

At 240K I'd be looking at the condition of your rubber bushings, upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings.

It all adds up as previously mentioned.
 
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I've been having a similar issue but not nearly as bad. I still feel safer in it (2005 LC with 173k) than I do our 2014 JKUR with 93k. But it definitely wanders more now than it did 40k miles ago.

I ordered some SuperPro rack bushings and hope to put those in next week. With the truck running and the hood open, have someone turn the steering wheel left to right while you watch the rack bushings. One will be hard to see but the PS one is relatively easy to see. My rack has probably a 1/4" of play from side to side due to worn bushings.

Also check the bushings in the upper and lower rear control arms. Those will allow the rear axle to pivot just enough to mess with the direction of the truck.
 
I've been having a similar issue but not nearly as bad. I still feel safer in it (2005 LC with 173k) than I do our 2014 JKUR with 93k. But it definitely wanders more now than it did 40k miles ago.

I ordered some SuperPro rack bushings and hope to put those in next week. With the truck running and the hood open, have someone turn the steering wheel left to right while you watch the rack bushings. One will be hard to see but the PS one is relatively easy to see. My rack has probably a 1/4" of play from side to side due to worn bushings.

Also check the bushings in the upper and lower rear control arms. Those will allow the rear axle to pivot just enough to mess with the direction of the truck.
Which bushings did you order? Could you link?
 
I believe these are the ones you need for a 1998. Please try to verify that though as I'm not positive. I purchased mine from eBay for $59 and they only work on 2003 model years and up.

 
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You've had good advice so far, so now its just to start chasing down stuff. Rack bushings are likely the majority of it, along with some other bushings here and there.

To check the rack you want the tires on the ground in my experience. You have someone turn the steering wheel side to side. If the rack moves BEFORE the wheels and tires move, the bushings are bad. Simple and common issue.

The 100's steering is light years ahead of the 60 for on-road driving. The 60 is years ahead of the 100 in styling, articulation, and cool points.
 

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