1997 White and Tan Collectors Edition

[freezedriedfetu]

Literally exploding the top of the radiator.

Mine blew straight across the top from the radiator cap to the drivers side, directly down the center.
Sounded like I blew a tire when it went. The hood jumped about 2" when it happened.

Holy s***, that’s crazy. I was debating weather to replace with the OEM 2 row aluminum radiator, comes without plastic tanks so it be a lot harder to spontaneously combust. They are definitely ticking time bombs if they live past their service life but when replaced at the correct intervals the the plastic tanked radiators work just fine.

 

[BILT4ME]

Damn, that is no joke! I'll have to be on the lookout. Luckily I have a spare but would rather not use it until I have to. No long trips planned for a little while but this is solid info, thanks!

Holy s***, that’s crazy. I was debating weather to replace with the OEM 2 row aluminum radiator, comes without plastic tanks so it be a lot harder to spontaneously combust. They are definitely ticking time bombs if they live past their service life but when replaced at the correct intervals the the plastic tanked radiators work just fine.

Here is the thread from when it happened.

Real Time... Radiator Exploded... Causes?

Yes, the radiator exploded after getting on the interstate. Have not had any cooling issues whatsoever. HG was done at 145k. Currently at 221k. I did a WOT on to the interstate with a/c on. After backing out of it I noticed the a/c wasn't cooling. About 1 mile later I thought I blew a tire it...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[freezedriedfetu]

March 2, 2020

Spent the day putting on this leather steering wheel cover from Amazon -
(Loncky Leather Steering Wheel Cover for Toyota Tacoma 2005-2011 / 4Runner 2003-2009 / Sienna 2004-2010/ Sequoia 2003-2007/ Highlander 2004-2007 /Camry 2005 2006/ Land Cruiser 1995 1997-2007 Accessories Amazon product ASIN B00QLYA3XS)



I would give both the fit and the finish a 7/10. It’s definitely not the right color but it’s a nice tone that matches well. I watched a couple YouTube videos on the specific stitching pattern and did it in a about 4 hours in my driveway.

 

[FMC80]

You have a sweet rig! I think it's also time for some sliders!

 

[freezedriedfetu]

July 10, 2020

Went to check out some local off-roading and stumbled upon Wildomar OHV at the end of a road, nice spot with some mellow terrain. HOT day

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 15, 2020

At this point I am putting in about a quart of oil inbetween oil changes. I get a decent amount of drippage on the pavement I see every morning and when I bring the truck in the garage I have to wipe oil off the floor near the front of the motor. After some research I figure it must be one of three things: the distributor o-ring, front main seal, or the oil pump cover gasket. The front of the motor was caked with oil so I just bet on fixing all three. Found the Wits’ Ends kit with nice bit of brake grease to hold the new o-ring and JIS bits to make the job easy so I hit the order button and got to work.


80 Series 1FZ Oil Pump Leak Kit
(80 Series 1FZ Oil Pump Leak Kit - https://absolute-wits-end.com/80-series-1fz-oil-pump-leak-kit/)

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 15, 2020

Went with bumping the starter and a breaker bar to get the crank bolt off. I took the fly wheel inspection cover off and put a socket on one of the heads in there then turned the pulley until the socket was pressed against the wall of the inspection hole so I did need to hold it. After this I went back up top and I torqued the main bolt down to 304 ft lbs with my big 3/4”.

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 15, 2020

Distributer o-ring replacement was pretty simple, just make sure to put a couple marks on the housing and set your motor to TDC and you’ll have a good starting place. When you take the distributer all the way out you’ll notice a notch on the end, make note of this as well and how it’s oriented in relation to the cap (like my 2nd photo mine is point to the left edge of the electrical top connector ). Change out your o-ring and put your distributor back in the same way it came out. Simple as that don’t make it complicated.

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 15, 2020

New PCV valves, PCV hoses, EGR hose, all small vacuum lines.

Parts
• Valve cover vent hose #1 (12261-66021)
• (2) Clips for hose #1 (90467-14001)
• Valve cover vent hose #2 (12262-66021)
• (2) Clips for hose #2 (90467-20002)
• PCV valve (12204-35040)
• PCV grommet (90480-18001)
• (6) Vacuum hose (90999-92003)

There were also a couple thicker former pieces under egr and two coolant hoses under the intake manifold I replaced as well.

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 15, 2021

New Valve Cover Gasket. Not leaking but I’m sure it will eventually, also wanted to clean up the FIPG marker on the half moons. Pulled of the throttle body and took of the cover. Plug tube seals come off easy with a seal puller and go in easy with a little oil. Go easy on the torque, I ended up breaking the head off of one bolt that was not very tight , so I bought all new bolts and very carefully and with even pressure tighted to 42 in-lbs or about 4.3 ft-lbs. If I had a little more time I would have got the cover powder coated.

• OEM valve cover gasket (11213-66021)
• OEM throttle body gasket (22271-66010)
• (6) OEM spark plug tube seals (11193-15010)
• (13) Valve Cover Bolts (90105-06221)

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 17, 2021

The throttle body was cleaned up by hand, I tried to remove and clean up each part the best I could as well as each port (make sure to check back of TB for clogged ports). Also, I have a PO401 code I am hoping to clear with the new hoses and the TB cleaning. I as well changed out the VSV and all of the vacuum/ heater hoses under the manifold including a molded one for the EGR I went into Toyota to get. I skipped out on the heater hose which comes out of the TB and runs down into the block near the PHH but replaced the one which runs into the TB. I got some new drive belts for ac and alternator, I tightened them up to have about 1/2" of deflection. Gave a couple of goes at removing the EGR valve itself but no luck, so I decided to save it for when I replace the heater valve and hoses behind it so I'll have more clearance. More info on PO401 here- 80 EGR VSV Replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-egr-vsv-replacement.317230/

Testing:
INSPECT EGR VACUUM MODULATOR OPERATION
(a) Block ports P and R with your finger.
(b) Blow air into port Q, and check that the air passes through to the air filter side freely.
(c) Start the engine, and maintain speed at 2,500 rpm.
(d) Repeat the above test. Check that there is a strong resistance to air flow. If operation is not as specified, replace the EGR vacuum modulator.

RECONNECT VACUUM HOSES TO EGR VACUUM MODULATOR
(a) Connect the vacuum hose to R port.
(b) Connect the vacuum hose to Q port.
(c) Connect the vacuum hose to P port.

P and R are the ports right next to each other. Q is the single port that goes to the egr.

Hoses:
• Vacuum Hose (90999-92003) x 6
• EGR modulator hose(25695-66010)

EGR
• EGR modulator (25870-66011) *if you can you did not pass test above)
• Vacuum Switching Valve VSV(90910-12079)

Belts:
• Alternator (90916-02353-83)
• AC belt (99332-10910-83)

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 17, 2021

Next, I tackled the battery cables after noticing corrosion in the fusible link (90982-08264), I order a set from HuddExpo (1993-1997 80 Series Land Cruiser Battery Cable Kit - https://huddexpo.com/1993-1997-80-series-land-cruiser-battery-cable-kit/) and new link from Toyota. The cables looked great, marine-grade, and definitely beefier they fit just about perfectly.

I went ahead and salvaged the mounting points and some of the foam insulation from the original cable and tried to replicate it the best I could.

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 17, 2021

Topped it off with some Mil-Spec Terminals and dusted off my battery. Taking the sticker off actual voids the warned so I kept it on some parchment paper...nice

Another shot of the cable after I wrapped it up and attached the OEM mounting tabs.

How it turned out topside.

Mil-Spec Terminals - Amazon product ASIN B00X36RILW

 

[RC51]

you are a good 80 owner! Glad she is so well taken care of.

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 20, 2021

Made a little boo boo and exploded the fan shroud when trying to remove it, the P/S lines were so tight up against it, that I should have loosened the bracket holding them to the frame rail. I was initially going to attempt to repair but I decided to just buy another one, it was around $100

Toyota-
1FZ-FE Fan Shroud- (16711-66031)

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 20, 2021

Always had heat at my feet no matter the climate setting as well as I could hear that it was considerably louder than the passenger side in terms of road/engine noise. I also had some vibration at speed and steering play so I decided to replace this upper shaft coupler, just to eliminate it as a possibility.

Toyota-
Steering Shaft Firewall Seal-45292-35050
Upper Steering Shaft Coupler Assembly-45230-60010

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 20, 2021

The vibration at speed and steering play was obviously a bigger issue. I have had a mix of oil and grease coming out of the driver-side Birfeild for some time. The wipers were caked with the concoction. I sourced parts for the knuckle rebuild from Cruiser Outfitters (8x Series Knuckle Rebuild Kit - Fits 8x 1/1990-1/1998 80/81 Series & LX450 - https://cruiserteq.com/toyota-knuckle-rebuild-kit-80-series-fa9097/) with the Koyo bearings option for a total of $224 shipped to my door. I was impressed with the kit and excited to get to work.

Anyone else notice the Sumo guy is frickin' packing?

 

[freezedriedfetu]

June 20, 2021

I am just now realizing how lazy I am posting these almost an exact year later, damn. Anyways I dug into the driver's side first and low and behold upon removing the dust cap I knew the inner axle seal were toast by the amount of diff oil I was seeing. I had just hoped it had not warn into the axle shaft itself. Worried it had, I preemptively bought the Witt's End Offset Driver (80 Series Inner Axle Seal Offset Driver - https://absolute-wits-end.com/80-series-inner-axle-seal-offset-driver/) to drive the seal past the wear and save the cost of a new axle shaft. The passenger side wheel bearing locknut assembly was extremely loose (most likely from the brake job at my work) and there was a substantial amount of play when rocking even the rotor around, it was most certainly part of the vibration I was experiencing. After removing all of the components I spent probably the next 4-6 hours cleaning all the parts which was lovely, I felt like a baby duck after a BP oil spill... it was horribly messy but all contained properly and now ready to go for tomorrow

A similar story but a very loose preload on the wheel bearning upon initial inspection

Birf soup! It's what's for dinner, yuck.

Fully disassembled. Tools that made it an easy job were the brass hammer and punch.

Again after disassembly I was even more impressed at this Toyota, pretty cool stuff going on here.

 

[ppc]

The birfield soup, in addition to the gear oil looks to be also contaminated by water giving that brownish rust color.

 

[freezedriedfetu]

Definitely, I checked the breather hose and everything looked all good, not sure what happened from the PO but it is for sure rust as well. It will be drained and refilled without water