80 EGR VSV Replacement (2 Viewers)

[juane]

Anyone ever deal with this little bastard?
Only one electrical plug and two vacuum hoses BUT you have to take the air intake or at least the throttle body off to get to it. Blast.

The EGR system is throwing a code which, according to Dan can be one of three components. By process of elimination I've replaced the cheapest part first, now, on to the next cheapest, the VSV.

Looking for advice...

juane

 

[Beowulf]

You can remove the VSV for EGR in about 30 minutes without removing the intake. 1 bolt from underneath. You'll need about 3' of extension. Remove the brace on the intake. Get the other bolt from the top. Again... you do NOT have to remove the intake or the throttle body or anything else. Just the bracket that gives some support to the intake and goes between the block and the intake.

There are dozens of good threads on the VSV for EGR in the 80-section but you'll have trouble finding them because you suck at searching and there are a lot of related threads. See if you can find the picture that Ali posted with the VSV circled and the intake removed. That will give you a good picture of what you are looking for. Let me know if you come up empty. I'm on a different computer tonight and don't have easy access to my library of photos.

-Mike-

 

[OGBeno]

Juane--

Before you go buying other parts do the following:

1. Take the throttle body off and do a good cleaning.

2. Clean the MAF

3. Replace the rubber vacuum hoses that feed into the EGR valve (cheap--$5)

4. Clean the EGR valve itself.

Most of this is mainly elbow grease.

Feel free to contact myself or Ali--both of us have way too much time dealing with the emissions crap on a 1FZFE. I just ended up de-smogging mine.

Here are some pics to help.

-o-

 

[juane]

Thanks dudes!
You guys are a great resource.
juane

 

[Beowulf]

John,
There is a tube that goes through the intake that gets clogged. Check and clean with a very long thin drill bit.

Above photos courtesy of wileetoyote

Above photo courtesy of alia176. The component circled in red is the VSV for EGR.

-Mike-

 

[Cruisergreg]

Before ripping into it, check that the valve holds vacuum. A bad diaphram is really all that can fail on an EGR.

 

[alia176]

juane,

It's all been said before so I don't have much to add.

The VSV is a simple valve and it's either on or off. Not much can go wrong with it and chances are you can probably use one from another Toyota engine. If you do a search in 80 section "external VSV mod" you can see a pic or two what I and others have done to bring the VSV out from under the upper intake area for ease of troubleshooting.

The EGR modulator can be tested using a vacuum pump. Someone in the 80 section did a very nice troubleshooting process step by step for the EGR. It might have been Raventai but not sure. You can probably get another one from another Toyota vehicle as well in case yours is shot.

All of our vehicles are fairly old so the EGR components are due to fail one at a time I suspect.

Good luck.

 

[juane]

I could not do this without you guys!
I will tackle this in the next week or two.

juane

 

[alia176]

I could not do this without you guys!
I will tackle this in the next week or two.

juane

No problem. Here's a basic run down of how the system works:

Charcoal canister: hold fumes from tank and absorb into Charcoal.

Engine running?
Yes
Temp sensor and water temp sensor: up to temp?
No. Do nothing.
Yes, open up VSV and suck in fumes from the charcoal canister into engine and
burn. Also, open up the EGR modulator and let hot exhaust into engine. Lowers NOX and lowers combustion pressure

EGR error codes:

Engine running?
yes
Water temp sensor - engine warm?
yes
EGR temp - is this probe hot?
Yes. All is fine.

No - well WTF? This tube needs to be hot so that I can lower NOX.

Alrighty then, P402, P402 coming you way, you bastards..
CEL on.
Thank you, come again .

You're now screwed.

 

[Beowulf]

I could not do this without you guys!
I will tackle this in the next week or two.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/103371-vsv-what-else-while-intake-off.html#post4829741

Post #29 gives more information than you will need on removing that part without removing the intake or the TB.

-Mike-

 

[juane]

Well, Mike, if you replaced your VSV in a half an hour, you are a better mechanic than me.
I finally got up the nerve to tackle mine - probably took better part of two hours and the loss of about a pint of blood, dripping all over the engine bay.
I have NOT got up the nerve to start it and see if the CEL come on (yes I did reset the computer).

Anyone know what the spark plug gap is for these things?
I'm gonna tackle points and plugs next.

juane

 

[OGBeno]

I'm gonna tackle points and plugs next.

juane

points?

Dude, EFI.....1996 vehicle, not 1966.



I don't remember the gap off the top of my head, but I do know that OEM Toyota spark plugs come with the correct gap for the engine they fit.

Why don't you get some from Toyota and not worry about the gap?

 

[Beowulf]

You can remove the VSV for EGR in about 30 minutes without removing the intake.

I said *you* can, not that I did. The vacuum hoses to the EGR modulator and that tube that goes through the intake are frequently the problem with a P0401. Hopefully, you did the other checks mentioned before you jumped in and replaced the VSV.

It takes me more than 30 minutes to move all the vehicles around so I can get the truck in the center of the garage... what with the cookie breaks and all. I can't do anything in 30 minutes.

Let me know how things go with replacing those points.

-Mike-

 

[Beowulf]

I'm gonna tackle [STRIKE]points and[/STRIKE] plugs next.

#1 through #5 plugs and wires are pretty straight forward. The grommets on the plug wires might be hard and stubborn but that comes with age. New wires are not that bad if yours have over 100k. The #6 plug will come out easier if you have a wobble on the spark plug end and tape up the extensions and the socket so everything stays together as you are fishing around back there.

Try not to kneel on the radiator and watch that nipple on the right center of the top plastic tank. Break that thing off and you'll take a 1 hr job to 2 days and big $$$ for a new radiator.

-Mike-

 

[alia176]

If you have a P401 code, don't waste your time on spark plugs. Perform the requisite troubleshooting steps and come up with the solution. You can DO it...

 

[Beowulf]

Well, Mike, if you replaced your VSV in a half an hour, you are a better mechanic than me.

Did this fix your P0401 code?

Here is another thread that has excellent pictures.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/203948-replacement-vsv-spanish.html

The thread is in both English and Spanish.

-Mike-

 

[juane]

Yep!
1000 miles and no check engine light.

juane

Did this fix your P0401 code?

Here is another thread that has excellent pictures.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/203948-replacement-vsv-spanish.html

The thread is in both English and Spanish.

-Mike-

 

[alia176]

sweet, good job. What did you end up doing to fix it?

 

[NorCalDoug]

Ali or Onur...
how long did it take you to remove the intake?
I'm trying to gauge which way I should go to tackle the VSV. I'm aware that it can be done without intake removal, but am not sure if I can squeeze my less-than-petite paws in to get to the VSV and various hoses...so it might be easier overall for me to do it as prescribed in the FSM...

I suppose I'll need a gasket for the intake too...

any tips would be appreciated.

 

[OGBeno]

Ali or Onur...
how long did it take you to remove the intake?
I'm trying to gauge which way I should go to tackle the VSV. I'm aware that it can be done without intake removal, but am not sure if I can squeeze my less-than-petite paws in to get to the VSV and various hoses...so it might be easier overall for me to do it as prescribed in the FSM...

I suppose I'll need a gasket for the intake too...

any tips would be appreciated.

Dougie-Fresh:

Your hands will definitely not fit to get that sucker....sorry man, wish I had good news for you.

I was able to get to the bolts that hold the two intake manifolds together by going underneath and getting the bolts which means some time lying on your back. You will need two 6" extensions, a 12mm universal as well and a flashlight--preferably a headlamp. I had light from above but that blinded me as I was trying to get to the intake manifold bolts. They are different sizes as well. Some are a bit longer to go through both.

Yes, i would recommend a set of intake manifold gaskets--the one long metal one--black. I have one that I can ship out to you doug--actually I think I have 4 or 5 extra OEM metal gaskets.

Let us know if you need any other help man.