1997 FZJ80 no start ??? (1 Viewer)

[Ronin344]

1997 FZJ80 with 223K miles. When I purchased it from the previous owner, it had a Viper alarm/remote start setup installed and was functioning correctly. Only other non factory electrical is a winch and a set of ARB Solis lights. No mystery wiring underneath or known electrical issues. The battery is a red top Optima and currently reads at 12.40volts. I replaced the fusible link and cover a few months ago. Ran fine yesterday and today when I put the key in, everything lit up on the dash as normal but when I went to start it, there was a muffled "pop" like noise and everything went dead...no electrical power at all. I'm thinking it's likely not the fusible link. My electrical knowledge is very limited so suggestions on where to start diagnosing, checking would be greatly appreciated.

 

[NeverFinis]

Time to break out a voltmeter, and the factory ECM....

 

[subzali]

I would first check for a loose battery connection

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Muffled POP...that's a fuse, friend. Start with the second one down middle row in the pass compartment (10A). That's the dash fuse. If that's not blown, look at the fusable link. Doesn't matter which one is blown, you're still in for a hunt to look for the short. Look where the wires pass through bulk-heads and go around sharp corners.

 

[1TonLC80]

Yep time to get the volt meter out and check power at the fuseable link and beyond

 

[Kernal]

Can you post up a photo of your Optima battery and the connections?

Did you have to pull/stretch the cables to get them to fit?




Here's a thread from awhile back:

Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures - FAQ Item (Recommend Keeping Copy in Truck)

For updates or revisions, please PM me, nuclerlemon or semlin The below is a troubleshooting guide if your in the boonies to help isolate a non starting vehicle problem. This is a compilation from forum members, specifically RavenTai, KliersLC, Landtank and Beaowulf. This will not catch each...

forum.ih8mud.com

Not the electron Guru but check this fuse also (engine bay fuse box):
Red 50A AM1 fuse is blown (no power)
Yellow 60A fuse (original) shows some green oxidation but is still good

 

[jonheld]

no electrical power at all. I'm thinking it's likely not the fusible link.

And after the battery terminal clamps, that would be the very next thing to check.
There are 3 fusible links in the set. Each one feeds a separate sub-system.
Check fuses/links with a meter, not your eyeballs.

 

[Ronin344]

Appreciate everyone's guidance and suggestions. That being said, I have resolved the problem and it was very simple. Broke out the FSM and voltmeter and tested the battery...still good at 12.40v. Checked the fusible links...again good. Grabbed the terminals and tried to move them, nope...nice and tight. Terminals are also nice and shiny with no corrosion....hmmm, WTF ? Checked the wires attached to the negative terminal and the wing nut...snug and no corrosion. Checked the positive terminal wingnut and the wires attached to it. Wingnut tight but wires loose. Pulled wingnut off and replaced with a regular nut and tightened it down. Wires now tight to the terminal post with no movement. Put key in, turned to the on position and now I have power. Fired right up. So, to sum it all up...the issue was some Cheap Charlie ChiCom battery terminals that were installed by the previous owner . These will be getting replaced this week. Anyone have a source for quality battery terminals?

 

[Kernal]

Good catch, reminds us to check the simple/easy things first.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Amazon.com: Recoil ZB1 Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Set, for Car, Truck, Boats, RV, Vessels, One Pair : Automotive

Buy Recoil ZB1 Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Set, for Car, Truck, Boats, RV, Vessels, One Pair: Terminals & Ends - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

This similar to what I use, the long posts give plenty of room for winch connections and everything else.

 

[ppc]

You also have the wrong battery. The Land Cruiser uses a 27F battery which has the positive post on the left rear of the battery. The battery you have has the positive on the right side near the fender. As stated in another post in the last day, the positive on the right is a potential problem that could end very badly if things get bounced around. Its even a danger installing the battery and tightening the positive without shorting it out.

With that type of battery clamp you do not want to connect wires to the tighten bolt, use the posts with the wingnut and a real bolt.