Builds 1996 Land Cruiser Build - "Kronk"

[Atomic City]

Finally decided to quit waiting on my original options for the rear control arms. We'll see if I get my money back or not. So, I went with some landtank lowers and dobinsons uppers. I almost have the new garage ready enough to start tearing into the suspension upgrade. Stoked.

 

[Atomic City]

Started on the suspension upgrade today. Got a little sidetracked with a broken bolt extraction, but got some done.

 

[Atomic City]

Inching along as I find time to sneak out to the garage here and there. I got the front shocks installed, then fabbed up some sway bar drop brackets from some spare 80/20 I had laying around. I spaced out snapping pictures of that. I am surprised that the PO didn't install drops before. Nor did he extend the bump stops. The lift that was on there was nearly 4". He was running smaller tires, though.

Anyway, next up I started tackling the front track bar. I have a 20 ton press, but I don't ever really like just pressing these things out - gets a bit hairy sometimes. So I used the technique of drilling multiple holes in the rubber and pressing the center piece out, then cutting a slot in the outer steel casing to relieve the stress and then pressing out. For the front track bar, I opted for the SLEE diy kit. I haven't welded anything yet. For the rear, I have the Delta bracket. Getting there slowly - hope to get a good chunk of time this Friday to work on it.

 

[Atomic City]

Got to sneak out for a bit tonight...

 

[bob82pigdog]

I understand how to adjust the bar itself, but what are you going to measure to know when the axle is centered?

 

[Atomic City]

I understand how to adjust the bar itself, but what are you going to measure to know when the axle is centered?

From the SLEE install instructions:

To set the panhard rods, it is necessary to measure from a common point on each side of the axle to the frame. Choose a point like the inside of the brake backing plate or the edge of the rotor. Measure the distance to the frame. If the side to side measurements are not the same, the panhard rods need to be shortened or lengthened to adjust this measurement. To adjust the panhard rod, remove the bolt at the adjuster side and turn the coupler to lengthen or shorten the rod. Re-install the bolt. After each adjustment, rock the vehicle to make sure that the suspension is not binding. Once the adjustments are correct, torque the panhard attachment bolts to spec and tighten the jamb nuts on the adjusters.

I haven't really decided where I will be measuring from on both sides of the frame. I'll take a closer look and decide once I get to that step.

 

[bob82pigdog]

Good explanation. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Atomic City]

Got quite a bit of work done today. Was hoping to finish, but still have the LCAs to install, along with the new driveshaft, and final adjustments. The rear shocks look dirty because they have been on the rig for a while.

Drilling out the bushings on the rear track bar:

 

[Atomic City]

Working on replacing tie rod ends today. What an effing nightmare. I got the driver's side done, but the passenger side just will not move. Going down the parts store to get a bigger pipe wrench and bigger cheater bar.

 

[Atomic City]

 

[FMC80]

View attachment 2598386View attachment 2598387

Wow, that bad huh? At least you prevailed in the end.

 

[Atomic City]

Done. Still have to get it aligned. Little stinkbug thanks to the heavies, but I like it.

 

[FMC80]

Looks great man, your hard work paid off! Now to take it wheeling!

 

[Atomic City]

Alignment is done. I had some late arriving parts, so I threw them on today. New bushings and links for the front and rear sway bars. So, the suspension is done for now. On to the next phase....

 

[Atomic City]

A quick camping trip this weekend....

 

[Atomic City]

Long time with no update. Kronk has been running great. I started the process of filling fender flare holes in prep for monstalining.

 

[Atomic City]

Took off the roof ribs and welded up the holes. The original roof rack holes had been covered up with some silicone, so I removed that and welded those also. I still have to smooth over with bondo and throw some primer. Getting closer to the monstaliner....

 

[Atomic City]

I was going to monstaline it before putting on the roof basket, but changed my mind. I'm going to start using this and line it later this fall.

 

[Atomic City]

Been a while with no update. Haven't really been working on Kronk. I have been preoccupied training for a mountain bike ride from Telluride to Moab. That happened last week - one of the coolest experiences ever. Now that the ride is done, I am hoping to have a bit more time for tinkering on Kronk. Back when I did the brakes, I decided to use 100 series pads up front. Well, I finally got sick of the squealing when coming to a stop. I switched back to 80 series pads this morning. Squeak gone.

I was looking forward to monstalining the rig this fall, but it sounds like the monstaliner company might be done: Monstaliner Bedliner - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/monstaliner-bedliner.485502/page-54#post-14064427. I might look into Raptor liner, but for now I think I am just going to wait for a bit and work on other stuff.

I'd like to add an aux tank and was looking at the LRA 24 gallon aux. The prices have increased recently, and there is a 90-150 day wait. Crazy. I'm looking around at other options, but there doesn't seem to be much. $2,200 for a gas tank seems awfully pricy - but then again, it seems that everyone charges extra if it is associated with a Toyota application.

I am also starting to put together for a list for a full re-gear and front/rear lockers.

Anyway, hope everyone is doing good out there.

 

[FMC80]

Been a while with no update. Haven't really been working on Kronk. I have been preoccupied training for a mountain bike ride from Telluride to Moab. That happened last week - one of the coolest experiences ever. Now that the ride is done, I am hoping to have a bit more time for tinkering on Kronk. Back when I did the brakes, I decided to use 100 series pads up front. Well, I finally got sick of the squealing when coming to a stop. I switched back to 80 series pads this morning. Squeak gone.

I was looking forward to monstalining the rig this fall, but it sounds like the monstaliner company might be done: Monstaliner Bedliner - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/monstaliner-bedliner.485502/page-54#post-14064427. I might look into Raptor liner, but for now I think I am just going to wait for a bit and work on other stuff.

I'd like to add an aux tank and was looking at the LRA 24 gallon aux. The prices have increased recently, and there is a 90-150 day wait. Crazy. I'm looking around at other options, but there doesn't seem to be much. $2,200 for a gas tank seems awfully pricy - but then again, it seems that everyone charges extra if it is associated with a Toyota application.

I am also starting to put together for a list for a full re-gear and front/rear lockers.

Anyway, hope everyone is doing good out there.

Nice, you do good work and I look forward to your updates. I too looked at the aux tank option and I’m with you, $2200 seems awfully steep. I don’t like that cheap looking indicator that comes with it. But the extended range is enticing.

Btw, I have no first-hand experience with 100 series pads on my 80 but I’ll contend it’s overrated and does not provide increased performance gains for the compromise to use them. I personally feel the 80 pads and braking system overall are fine. Of course that’s comparing apples to apples, but that’s just me.